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liquid electrical tape

jmsneorrcom

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akron, ohio
has anybody had any experience with liquid electrical tape? looks cool to use. any problems or other.
to Warthog, I checked the TMs a couple of times and there was nothing in there about tape
 

Militoy

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Mojave Desert, CA
I've used it a few times. It's extremely fast-curing and useful when access for regular tape is limited. The unused portion doesn't last too long in the can. I found it to be "OK" - but prefer other insulation methods if they will work.
 

deuceaid

Banned
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Location
Yucaipa CA
I have used it a few times. Its slow to dry (the stuff I had), and lumpy looking. I only have one warning, I used it to fill in some voids in a plastic grip handle ( to deaden the sound coming thru the lever) ... and I poured it into the voids ( so it had thick pockets of the stuff)......well the solvent in the tape softened and warped the grip a little bit. So if its something that is plastic, and You dont want that warped look, dont pour it on heavy.
 

Bairrfhionn82

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New Brighton,MN
I used it on the Doghead mod and for the glowplug relay.It works great put a little on at a time till it skims over a little bit to buildup to what ever thickness you want.
 

plym49

Well-known member
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TX USA
I have found that it works on non-critical applications where the part is too small or fragile to effectively use tape.
 

Stihl029

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Kodiak, AK
we use it all the time at work there are several manufactures out there. I like the starbright we normally get out of the stock system. the 3m stuff is good too, but it takes several coats. we use it on control lines and coaxial lines I do have a large write-up i have included in contracts but here is how we use it to keep it simple:

1 wrap of self vulcanizing tape(the silicon wrap everything tape in every color to fix it stuff is sold at most hardware stores in small quantities) start at the middle of the cable, work to 1 inch past the opening, then back to 1 inch past the other opening and back to center. when wraping the tape there is a line that line is to mark the edge of the wrap comming over it. be mindul not to allow bubbles; and when it sticks to itself its stuck, so the only way to remove it is with a knife.

2 wraps of regular electrical tape (i prefer super 33 or super 88 from 3m and the two are for different temps) when wrapping go 1 inch past the self vulcanizing tape; and follow the middle, edge, edge and finish middle.

3 thin coats of the varnish

be careful not to allow bubbles, pockets allow air to condensate; which allows moisture. oh and the varnish may permanently stain your clothing FYI

if you have any q's let me know I will try to watch this thread closely.

we are required to do this to every topside connection on my ship monthly; and before and after every patrol. it takes a team of 6 people about 2 days when the weather co-operates. there are times like right now that we do not do this since it would be more damaging to allow the elements in...stupid alaskan wintersaua

k so i think i may have beat this one into the grounnd. Again if you have questions let me know. I have some videos from the navy on how to use it.

Additionally there is a newer device that is out that works the same and it is called Ray-o-lon and is awesome. Much much faster.
 

Timber

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Location
Montgomery, AL
I solder and use shrink wrap where I can, but I do keep the liquid electrical tape around. It works great when you have to "T" into a wire and want to solder the connection.
 

Troll1216

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Location
Loxahatchee, FL
Self vulcanizing tape works great, just keep it out of direct sunlight, that is how it dries.

As for the liquid electrical tape, I made an ad-hoc repair on my Surefire X-200 weapon light with DEVO group tape switch about 8 years ago. Long story short, I had to re-waterproof the switch. I coat it once every two months or so and it had held up. After a few coatings I peel it off and do it over again. I just can't see spending another $50 on something that is going to wear out again. I do the same thing with my remote tape switch on my AR. Holds up great.

I recommend it more for waterproofing than anything else.

It is slow to dry and will eventually dry out. Just keep it out of the heat as much as possible and seal it up tight.
 

maddawg308

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Front Royal, VA
I would keep it only as a field repair means for fixing spliced wiring, or other electrical problems like it. I would NOT use it as a long-term fix.
 

Timber

Member
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Location
Montgomery, AL
I use it under shrink tube on automotive electrical repairs (lot more road time than any mv) and have NEVER had a comback for it failing.
I've used it over solder/under shrink-wrap for a long time as well as running it alone where you can't use shrink-wrap. Zero failures. YMMV.
 

ODdave

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Location
lansing michigan
Another tip that might be of use with solder, If you encounter wire that has tarnished (blackend in color) and your having trouble getting the solder to stick Aluminum brightener (sold at NAPA) and a 3m scotch bright pad removes it very quickly and gives you a fresh surface to adhere to. Just remember to rinse and dry well. I have also used muratic acid (used in swiming pools) and it works even faster but requires more caution to be used as it is more harmfull.
 

porkysplace

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
9,604
1,486
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Location
mid- michigan
Another tip that might be of use with solder, If you encounter wire that has tarnished (blackend in color) and your having trouble getting the solder to stick Aluminum brightener (sold at NAPA) and a 3m scotch bright pad removes it very quickly and gives you a fresh surface to adhere to. Just remember to rinse and dry well. I have also used muratic acid (used in swiming pools) and it works even faster but requires more caution to be used as it is more harmfull.
Be very carefull with muratic acid around concrete it will eat the top right off it .
 
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