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LizardSkin / Tire questions

Bryteayes

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We are getting ready to start on our Paradox (1998 M1079) and would love to learn from your experiences. If money was not an issue, would you insulate your cab with LizardSkin or Kilmat?

What tire pressure do you run on the highway. I’m going through the every light on CTIS blinks workup.
 

chucky

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We are getting ready to start on our Paradox (1998 M1079) and would love to learn from your experiences. If money was not an issue, would you insulate your cab with LizardSkin or Kilmat?

What tire pressure do you run on the highway. I’m going through the every light on CTIS blinks workup.
If you go to lowes and go to where they have the rolled flashing they have 6 in x 25 ft rolls of the same stuff but alot cheaper and easier to work with (aluminum backed black rubber sticky back ) great for heat and sound dampening i used it in my cab on my 1083 and just lined the entire tub on a jeep build im doing now ! Its good stuffhttps://www.lowes.com/pd/Peel-Seal-...s-6-in-x-25-ft-Aluminum-Roll-Flashing/1018733
 

Bryteayes

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Third From Texas

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If money were no object, I'd throw everything at it. I'd have someone spray it with Lizardskin then have them lay down Killmat and have an all-leather and ostrich skin custom, dash and interior installed. I'd insist on all the installers being all hot, blonde, natural born virgin females working only in bikinis.

In reality I'm doing exactly what Chucky suggested. Laying down some aluminum-backed flashing (using a $15 roller kit). Then for rubber mats, I picked up a couple of off-brand solutions off Amazon that do the exact same thing for a fraction of the cost. I'll hang sealed wood panels covered in marine vinyl.

I think the only "name brand" part I purchased was the Dynamat hoodline for under the doghouse.
 

Bryteayes

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San Angelo, TX
If money were no object, I'd throw everything at it. I'd have someone spray it with Lizardskin then have them lay down Killmat and have an all-leather and ostrich skin custom, dash and interior installed. I'd insist on all the installers being all hot, blonde, natural born virgin females working only in bikinis.

In reality I'm doing exactly what Chucky suggested. Laying down some aluminum-backed flashing (using a $15 roller kit). Then for rubber mats, I picked up a couple of off-brand solutions off Amazon that do the exact same thing for a fraction of the cost. I'll hang sealed wood panels covered in marine vinyl.

I think the only "name brand" part I purchased was the Dynamat hoodline for under tOstrhe doghouse.
If money were no object, I'd throw everything at it. I'd have someone spray it with Lizardskin then have them lay down Killmat and have an all-leather and ostrich skin custom, dash and interior installed. I'd insist on all the installers being all hot, blonde, natural born virgin females working only in bikinis.

In reality I'm doing exactly what Chucky suggested. Laying down some aluminum-backed flashing (using a $15 roller kit). Then for rubber mats, I picked up a couple of off-brand solutions off Amazon that do the exact same thing for a fraction of the cost. I'll hang sealed wood panels covered in marine vinyl.

I think the only "name brand" part I purchased was the Dynamat hoodline for under the doghouse.
Ostrich skin would clash with my elephant hide combat boots. I can’t argue with your installer requirements.
How about having to choose between LizardSkin and kilmat / flashing?
 

chucky

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If money were no object, I'd throw everything at it. I'd have someone spray it with Lizardskin then have them lay down Killmat and have an all-leather and ostrich skin custom, dash and interior installed. I'd insist on all the installers being all hot, blonde, natural born virgin females working only in bikinis.

In reality I'm doing exactly what Chucky suggested. Laying down some aluminum-backed flashing (using a $15 roller kit). Then for rubber mats, I picked up a couple of off-brand solutions off Amazon that do the exact same thing for a fraction of the cost. I'll hang sealed wood panels covered in marine vinyl.

I think the only "name brand" part I purchased was the Dynamat hoodline for under the doghouse.
I would want the oposite of Thirds installers what i want is natural born ho's with or without hair or bikinis just a nice tan and willingness to please others ! Its like the comedian said WHAT HAVE VIRGINS EVER DONE FOR ME ???? NOTHING ! Carry on !
 

GeneralDisorder

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Lizardskin is amazing and is actually a very well engineered product that is used heavily in commercial applications (fire trucks, ambulances, etc) and by the US Navy, etc. It's just the small motorsports division of Mascoat:


I used the Lizardskin thermal coating on the inside walls of my M1079 box and it easily dropped the inner wall skin temps by 15-20 degrees. If you plan on the truck being a dark color then you will have to make serious efforts to reject heat. Awnings to stop direct sun, thermal coatings, etc. Otherwise it's basically an aluminum oven inside. If you don't have a large window you might want to consider window upgrades - the small 4 window van like mine doesn't have nearly enough airflow or light. I'm installing 64" x 32" double-awning windows in their place and then firring out the walls to the same width as the upper cable raceways and further insulating with foam board.

The cheap sticky butyl rubber with foil is ancient technology, messy to work with, messy to remove or puncture if you need to go through it.... avoid.

As for the cab - that's going to be a really tall order to insulate for sound and temp - you'll have to dismantle the entire dash, etc. Can be done but messy. If you go to the ECO hubs to reduce engine/drivetrain RPM and eliminate the reduction axle noise and you install the factory A1P2 air conditioning you really don't need to bother honestly.
 

Bryteayes

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Lizardskin is amazing and is actually a very well engineered product that is used heavily in commercial applications (fire trucks, ambulances, etc) and by the US Navy, etc. It's just the small motorsports division of Mascoat:


I used the Lizardskin thermal coating on the inside walls of my M1079 box and it easily dropped the inner wall skin temps by 15-20 degrees. If you plan on the truck being a dark color then you will have to make serious efforts to reject heat. Awnings to stop direct sun, thermal coatings, etc. Otherwise it's basically an aluminum oven inside. If you don't have a large window you might want to consider window upgrades - the small 4 window van like mine doesn't have nearly enough airflow or light. I'm installing 64" x 32" double-awning windows in their place and then firring out the walls to the same width as the upper cable raceways and further insulating with foam board.

The cheap sticky butyl rubber with foil is ancient technology, messy to work with, messy to remove or puncture if you need to go through it.... avoid.

As for the cab - that's going to be a really tall order to insulate for sound and temp - you'll have to dismantle the entire dash, etc. Can be done but messy. If you go to the ECO hubs to reduce engine/drivetrain RPM and eliminate the reduction axle noise and you install the factory A1P2 air conditioning you really don't need to bother honestly.
Great information! Thank you
 

Bryteayes

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
74
107
33
Location
San Angelo, TX
Lizardskin is amazing and is actually a very well engineered product that is used heavily in commercial applications (fire trucks, ambulances, etc) and by the US Navy, etc. It's just the small motorsports division of Mascoat:


I used the Lizardskin thermal coating on the inside walls of my M1079 box and it easily dropped the inner wall skin temps by 15-20 degrees. If you plan on the truck being a dark color then you will have to make serious efforts to reject heat. Awnings to stop direct sun, thermal coatings, etc. Otherwise it's basically an aluminum oven inside. If you don't have a large window you might want to consider window upgrades - the small 4 window van like mine doesn't have nearly enough airflow or light. I'm installing 64" x 32" double-awning windows in their place and then firring out the walls to the same width as the upper cable raceways and further insulating with foam board.

The cheap sticky butyl rubber with foil is ancient technology, messy to work with, messy to remove or puncture if you need to go through it.... avoid.

As for the cab - that's going to be a really tall order to insulate for sound and temp - you'll have to dismantle the entire dash, etc. Can be done but messy. If you go to the ECO hubs to reduce engine/drivetrain RPM and eliminate the reduction axle noise and you install the factory A1P2 air conditioning you really don't need to bother honestly.
I’ve already changed to highway gears otherwise I’d be getting the ECO hubs. They appear to be a great product. I am unsure how they will work with the highway gears.
 

GeneralDisorder

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I’ve already changed to highway gears otherwise I’d be getting the ECO hubs. They appear to be a great product. I am unsure how they will work with the highway gears.
I've installed on two trucks (both M1088's - one with a 17' habitat and one with a 24' habitat) with 3.07 gears and both owners are quite happy. You'll be fine.
 

ckouba

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I’ve already changed to highway gears otherwise I’d be getting the ECO hubs. They appear to be a great product. I am unsure how they will work with the highway gears.
That's what I have and will confirm Rick's assessment. They're fantastic. I see no downside after ~500 miles so far.

2000 M1088A1, 3126 in OE 330h tune, ~7' tall box on back, hwy gears, ECO hubs, somewhere around 25k pounds at this point.



For what it's worth, Rick sprayed Lizard Skin after checking out my rig. I don't know that it's THE thing which makes mine so thermally manageable, but mine is similarly constructed to the 1079 box (steel frame, alu skin, a bit less thermal bridging), but maintains a very comfortable interior temp in direct sunlight. I went to great lengths to avoid thermal bridges with my rig and it is white, so it has a bit more going for it than a standard 1079 box, but the comparison to his rig when parked in the sun is night and day (yes, pun intended). It's not cheap, but I am of the opinion it is absolutely worth the money and effort.

It's also super easy to apply with their spray gun.
 

Bryteayes

Active member
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Location
San Angelo, TX
That's what I have and will confirm Rick's assessment. They're fantastic. I see no downside after ~500 miles so far.

2000 M1088A1, 3126 in OE 330h tune, ~7' tall box on back, hwy gears, ECO hubs, somewhere around 25k pounds at this point.



For what it's worth, Rick sprayed Lizard Skin after checking out my rig. I don't know that it's THE thing which makes mine so thermally manageable, but mine is similarly constructed to the 1079 box (steel frame, alu skin, a bit less thermal bridging), but maintains a very comfortable interior temp in direct sunlight. I went to great lengths to avoid thermal bridges with my rig and it is white, so it has a bit more going for it than a standard 1079 box, but the comparison to his rig when parked in the sun is night and day (yes, pun intended). It's not cheap, but I am of the opinion it is absolutely worth the money and effort.

It's also super easy to apply with their spray gun.
I believe we are going for LizardSkin inside the box. Will put it on roof, back and sides of cab. Will get eco hubs. Maybe kilmat underside of cab. Might need to pick up a few more ER shifts to pay for everything.
 

Third From Texas

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used the Lizardskin thermal coating on the inside walls of my M1079 box and it easily dropped the inner wall skin temps by 15-20 degrees.
Yeah, the AAR shelters are horrible thermal bridges.

How much did it take to do the inside of the hab?

I have an inch of dense foam insulation going on the walls behind the paneling, but I'm not ruling out another layer.
 

Bryteayes

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I really appreciate everyone’s input. Now about tire pressure for highway driving. My tires say 95PSI. Is that what you are running?
 

chucky

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How old are your tires ? Good looking tread doesnt mean anything unless you never get on the pavement ive never put more than 80 psi in my xmls but i hardly go anywhere but around here where i live ! See what everone else says but i wouldnt run but 75 or 80 on old tires on the hwy but thats just my opinion !
 

Bryteayes

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How old are your tires ? Good looking tread doesnt mean anything unless you never get on the pavement ive never put more than 80 psi in my xmls but i hardly go anywhere but around here where i live ! See what everone else says but i wouldnt run but 75 or 80 on old tires on the hwy but thats just my opinion !
I’ll check tire age when I get home. They appear new but doubt they are.
 
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