You know how to read the code ? find the DOT section and find the 4 digits with the long circle around it like 3509 would be the 39th week of 09 !
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LizardSkin / Tire questions
- Thread starter Bryteayes
- Start date
- 74
- 107
- 33
- Location
- San Angelo, TX
Thank you. That’s one of many things I’ve learned from this group.
Off the top of my head, I'd say your math is off. I think I used 4 gal for the interior of my box. I can look it up if you want/need me to but 18 gal sounds way too high. Rick just did his and I think he said he got a 5 gal bucket for his 1079 box.
Based on your location, I'd say it'd be worth it.
Third From Texas
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Good to know, but that was from Lizardskin's site.
I calculated the walls and ceiling as 12x8 or 96 sq/ft x left/right/ceiling = ~300 sq/ft
Front and rear at 8x7 or 56 x front/rear = ~112 sq/ft
~400 sq/ft total for the hab.
Insulation Calculator - How Much Do I Need? - LizardSkin
Use LizardSkin's insulation calculator to find out how much LizardSkin Insulation product you'll need for your car, truck, bus, RV or camper.
lizardskin.com
Says I need 16 gal (that's with the recommended two coats).
16 gal at $224 = 1800 + shipping (from Lizardskin).
*It's a bit cheaper on Amazon
But I'd much prefer real world numbers. I can't locate 5 gal bulk.
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- Portland, OR
I used 6 gallons for the inside of the M1079 van for the thermal coating. I didn't do the sound insulation - just thermal. 2 coats on the walls and ceiling. It comes in 2 gallon buckets.
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- Location
- San Angelo, TX
San Angelo is way hotter than Corpus. It’s worth it to me . It was only 104 there today. Must be a cold front blowing in.
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- Portland, OR
You will need it. And if you plan to air condition it.... well it's a challenge. With the truck in direct sun, both awnings deployed, and running two AC units (I have a 24v unit, and a 120v unit) I can keep the habitat around 72-74 with the outside ambient temps around 100 degrees. I can't sustain that for more than about 8 hours on batteries though. If you painted the whole thing a lighter color, parked it in the shade, etc it will help but that also lowers solar energy needed to run the AC..... realistically right now we are on the cusp of some really good solar technology that will make this easier (flexible solar awnings with good power and reliability) but for at least the next year or two if you plan to park up in direct sun you'll need a generator to run enough AC and as much insulation as you can get.
Or use the capabilities of the truck to drive itself up into the mountains where it's cooler..... and get larger windows.
- 74
- 107
- 33
- Location
- San Angelo, TX
San Angelo is way hotter than Corpus. It’s worth it to me . It was
I’ve been weighing 24v bs 110v AC. I hadn’t thought about both but that is a great idea. Our plan after camper conversion is to drive Angelo to NM and hang out in the mountains a week to ten days. Leave it in long term parking at ABQ, fly home and work in ER a week. Fly back to ABQ and head for a week in Colorado. Repeat with Paradox parked at DEN for a week while I’m back in the ER then continue the adventure. Think it should take about eight months to do a two month trip.
What 24v AC are you using?
Sorry about that- the math may be right on but the practical application feels way overkill.
I just remembered that I only did one coat, but I did everything within the exterior paneling with those 4 gallons, including the sub-floor structure. My interior lengths are 23' long at the top and 16' 8" at the bottom, with a 7' height and 8' width. Then I put the flooring in and the OSB paneling up over all that.
Based on the construction of the 1079 box and seeing Rick's temps first hand, it's probably a buy once/cry once scenario. If you're like me, you'll forget how much the stuff costs and just be able to go on using your rig when and where you desire. I am seriously impressed by it so far (and don't expect that to change).
Third From Texas
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Good stuff for sure...
I've never questioned the benefits. It's just that so much that I'd love to do (and in many cases need to be doing) is simply beyond my means. I'm lucky to not be living in the damned truck by now, to be honest. FJB
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- San Diego, CA
I put dynamat in almost all the panels, automotive grade foil backed floor insulation across the entire floor, dynamat 3/4-in hood liner underneath the dog house, Rockwool insulation inside of the back panels under the back side windows, several layers of intricately cut foam insulation all over the back and top of the cab, triple expanding spray foam insulation and all the nooks and crannies in the back and roof, mylar foil bubble insulation underneath the high density fiberboard rear and ceiling panels which are carpet covered. I would have done lizard skin but that was a bit outside my budget.
- 74
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- Location
- San Angelo, TX
Thank you for your help.
- 2,034
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I'm running one of these units but I got it off ali-express for about $450 shipped - about twice the lead time due to slower shipping. Same thing though. Actually works pretty good. Have to crimp your own hoses and charge it yourself, but I own a performance shop so I have all those tools on hand. Fit perfectly within the area of the ECU block off plate and I can actually remove the entire ECU plate, disconnect it's power, and the whole unit drops right out off the wall. When I sprayed the lizard skin I actually removed it, pulled the evaporator unit off the plate, and coated lizard skin behind it and then reinstalled.
Working on my windows right now. Putting in 64" x 32" double-awning windows on either side and an 18" x 20" window in the rear door. Ventilation and light on these habitats are both lacking and also the factory windows are absolute trash. The aluminum frames sweat and conduct heat and the glass is just single pane - no insulation value at all. Almost worse than if they didn't bother putting them in.
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Third From Texas
Well-known member
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- Location
- Corpus Christi Texas
That's the same a/c unit I have in my cart ! LOL
The first one is going in the cab. I know, everyone insists that the cab needs 60,000 btu as per the Army specs , but I'm a rebel (and this is what I can afford to do and the install is a "wee" bit easier than doing the mechanical a/c). If it works out, I'll slap one on the hab as well (already have a 5k 110v unit installed).
The AAR shelters are really well insulated and sturdy, The issue is the damned thermal bridging No matter the solution type, you've gotta break that bridge via additional insulation. Most RV manufacturers use a layer of wood or other non-heat conducting material in their walls. I really can't afford Lizzardskin. My hopes are that the 1" foam/foil R 6.0 panels going up behind my internal paneling will do the job (those I've had for a year). I'll get a season in testing it out before I button up the walls for good.
Speaking of windows, did you encounter any issues removing the OEM slide-up blinds? I drilled the rivets out, but the damned channels are not gonna budge. Mine is the small window box like I assume yours was. I've beat on those things for two years and still haven't gotten one off yet. They act like they are thru-bolted but I know that they aren't. I'm about ready to take my air hammer to them and rip 'em like sheet metal. I'm going to stick with the OEM windows (again, budget). But I really need those channels gone so I can frame up flush to the window frame. I had the same issue with the steel plates on the walls. In that case, it was the adhesive that they used It was like they were welded on there. Tore the hell out of the aluminum skin getting them off. I'm thinking the window slider might have the same glue in there.
The first one is going in the cab. I know, everyone insists that the cab needs 60,000 btu as per the Army specs , but I'm a rebel (and this is what I can afford to do and the install is a "wee" bit easier than doing the mechanical a/c). If it works out, I'll slap one on the hab as well (already have a 5k 110v unit installed).
The AAR shelters are really well insulated and sturdy, The issue is the damned thermal bridging No matter the solution type, you've gotta break that bridge via additional insulation. Most RV manufacturers use a layer of wood or other non-heat conducting material in their walls. I really can't afford Lizzardskin. My hopes are that the 1" foam/foil R 6.0 panels going up behind my internal paneling will do the job (those I've had for a year). I'll get a season in testing it out before I button up the walls for good.
Speaking of windows, did you encounter any issues removing the OEM slide-up blinds? I drilled the rivets out, but the damned channels are not gonna budge. Mine is the small window box like I assume yours was. I've beat on those things for two years and still haven't gotten one off yet. They act like they are thru-bolted but I know that they aren't. I'm about ready to take my air hammer to them and rip 'em like sheet metal. I'm going to stick with the OEM windows (again, budget). But I really need those channels gone so I can frame up flush to the window frame. I had the same issue with the steel plates on the walls. In that case, it was the adhesive that they used It was like they were welded on there. Tore the hell out of the aluminum skin getting them off. I'm thinking the window slider might have the same glue in there.