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LMC Truck Head light circuit mod questions

Jeepadict

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Isn't the lighting system a 12v system? I understood that the only parts of the CUCV that were 24v were the things added to meet NATO standards like the slave cable port and communication stuff?

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Salty dog

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Spring, Texas
Isn't the lighting system a 12v system? I understood that the only parts of the CUCV that were 24v were the things added to meet NATO standards like the slave cable port and communication stuff?

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I was asking in particular to connecting to the battery, if the way they are interconnected would require anything special. I am still new to the cucv and treating everything as a learning experience
 

Jeepadict

Well-known member
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Location
Round Mountain, NV
I was asking in particular to connecting to the battery, if the way they are interconnected would require anything special. I am still new to the cucv and treating everything as a learning experience
I've learned the hard way with these, and our FD's CUCV has been modified so that adds a degree of difficulty for me as well.

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Keith_J

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Schertz TX
Only the starter and glow plug feed are 24 volt. All other parts are 12 volt common to the civy models. All 12 volt supply starts at the diamond shaped junction block on the firewall. This is your 12 volt supply for the relays. The 12 volt switched from the headlight switch triggers the solenoid on the relays, directly connecting the lights to the front battery.

This reduces wire and switch voltage loss. You should use 20 amp auto reset circuit breakers to protect the wires in case of shorts.
 

swiss

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Oakwood, Ga
Another option is to purchase the Trucklite LED headlights and not worry about installing the relay. The LED's do not have the high AMP pull.

Or you can do both.

On the LMC relay follow the instructions, if is fairly easy. Install relays on passenger side front grill, attach to 1 battery the power cables and plug into the headlights.
 

Barrman

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Giddings, Texas
Just use the positive of the front battery to run the LMC relay kit.

I have to plug the Trucklite LED headlights. I put them on the Cowdog and had buyers remorse as soon as I hit the button to buy them. Until I got them on the truck. I want them on the entire fleet now. That are that good.
 

swiss

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Yes they are expensive but they will light the road better than the high dollar German sedans. It is worth not eating for a week to buy the Trucklite LED headlights. Remember to feed the children though.
 

Jeepadict

Well-known member
480
721
93
Location
Round Mountain, NV
Only the starter and glow plug feed are 24 volt. All other parts are 12 volt common to the civy models. All 12 volt supply starts at the diamond shaped junction block on the firewall. This is your 12 volt supply for the relays. The 12 volt switched from the headlight switch triggers the solenoid on the relays, directly connecting the lights to the front battery.

This reduces wire and switch voltage loss. You should use 20 amp auto reset circuit breakers to protect the wires in case of shorts.
Wasn't there also some 24v stuff going to the rear bumper for the trailer lighting?

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Barrman

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Giddings, Texas
I have often thought the CUCV trucks were one of the main reason LED bulbs for tail lights were developed. Starting with the black out lights and then the full light buckets on MV’s and the trailers.
 

swiss

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Oakwood, Ga
Shop this part number at your favorite shopping site. They will cost you $350.00 or more more. But again what is your deductible when you hit a deer on the side of the road at night :)

Trucklite Part Number
27450C
 

britcucv

New member
14
0
1
Location
england
Is there anything different that needs to be done if the M1009 is still the 24v original set up
I brought the same part directly from China,half the price post free , easy to fit ,as for LED headlights refitting these on older vehicles in the U.K. is against the law ,there must be a good reason for this .
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
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Location
Schertz TX
I went H4 halogen Rampage Products 5089927. It is DOT approved, should be fine for the UK. Much better beam. Sealed beam units with glass reflectors have front corrector plates because hot glass removed from molds distorts as it passes down the cooling oven. So they correct distortions using a variety of lenses.
The H4 lights have a cast aluminum reflector and flat plane front lenses. Very accurate beam, much better light.

I had a close call in a rain storm, going 35 MPH, I hit a deep water section I could not see as it was full of floating hay and looked like highway. It nearly stopped me dead in my tracks, causing shoulder belt burn. Next morning, I had hay all the way up to the bumper. Dang lucky I didn't hydroplane. Cooper Discover S/T MAXX paid for themselves that night. And the sealed beams became dumpster fodder.
 

ssdvc

Well-known member
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Location
CT
Has anyone converted to the H4 headlight housings (a lot of companies offer them and they are fairly inexpensive) and then subbed in LED light bulbs instead of the halogen bulbs?
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,277
1,805
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
I’m sure a LED bulb has been put into H4 housings. However, the focal point of the vastly different lights means your chances of getting focused on the road light are pretty low. That is why you see LED housings listed separate from the halogen housings.
 

ssdvc

Well-known member
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639
93
Location
CT
I agree. However, I have seen headlight housings (do't know if they are LED or halogen specific) with replaceable LED bulbs in them Don't know how good they are, but I have been reading a bit and those H4 LED replacements seem to work pretty good, with a sharp cutoff and light range for less than 1/4 of the Trucklite Headlights (which are very nice). Before I go one way or another I would love to get some actual use opinions.
 
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