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is it a brass nut that 24v flows thru.... or ?? if not maybe just take the unit to a big tractor supply or Ace hardware so you can matched the bolt to a nut they have...... and buy the needed nut?
Clean up the pitting on the disc and contacts, and it will probably be good for years...
I found it on the floor. Once I stopped looking, there it was. There's a couple fiber washers that it sandwiches together and holds the spring that pushes on the copper disc. I have to fiddle with it bc I don't know how it goes back together exactly. The solenoid seems to work when the plunger is where it's supposed to be. The whole unit should work but now I have a suspect starter motor blaaa.
Yes it's quiet a thick piece of copper. The pitting is not really that bad. It was lightly stuck to both copper studs when I took the cover off the back. Easily popped off. I doubt that would've stayed stuck if the plunger was-still connected.
Again, really appreciate all your knowledge and help here. I've read more of your posts on this battery issue and made a draft sketch of electrical mods attached. I have 1 battery down but others are fine per the tester. All the terminations are clean.
I’d like to see a thread dedicated to this. It seems so many problems come from the batteries and associated components that could be eliminated as you state above. Going to a battery bank and step down to run the 12v side seems like it would be the way to go.
That makes sense. It's a simpler fix than mine too. I'm gonna try the 2x group 31 batteries first, as you've said on other threads, and pull the control cable from the LBCD. I'm still going to put a manual switch in line with the AIH solenoid control wire since I use the engine block heater all the time in winter. That pulsing of the AIH drives me nuts when engine is already running.Dedicated power systems might be a little overkill. The systems you are talking about powering are pretty robust, otherwise we would be discussung their failures here regularly, and we simply do not, despite all the alt and batt issues we see. There are other ways to do this also, Newmar makes products for just this purpose, start-guard and nav-guard I think? But it addresses a non-existent issue IMO.
This also does not address the root cause of all the power and alternator issues, an alt not sized properly to deal with such a large battery bank.
If you simply remove 2 of the batteries, you drop the chance of the LBCD dosconnecting to virtually zero, as 2 batts, unless completely shorted and dead(cant even crank truck), would have a hard time overloading the alt to a point where the LBCD would disconnect, even when stone dead.
Removing the disco relay guarantees zero disconnects, while still retaining the capacitor spike absorbing/filtration capability. You can probably sell that disconnect on ebay for $$$(~$600 new). Or disconnect its control wire from the LBCD, leaving remote switched disconnect control from the dash and passrnger engine bay, which is a good feature IMO.
The LBCD provides the only automatic charging system monitoring(drives charging failure dash light) on any of these trucks. That would be an easy enough feature to add though with a simple voltage sense circuit driving the dash light. You could probably even make it flash
So finally it's all back together today. New starter installed, 2 batteries removed. The AIH is temporarily unpowered at the solenoid until I can rig a switch. The battery analyzer from pulse tech showed 3 batteries at 65% and 1 at 40%. I charged the 2 I left in there. Truck fired right up no problem although I had the block heater going all day. Its 20F outside. No check lights and voltage is right on 28. Everything seems peachy.Dedicated power systems might be a little overkill. The systems you are talking about powering are pretty robust, otherwise we would be discussung their failures here regularly, and we simply do not, despite all the alt and batt issues we see. There are other ways to do this also, Newmar makes products for just this purpose, start-guard and nav-guard I think? But it addresses a non-existent issue IMO.
This also does not address the root cause of all the power and alternator issues, an alt not sized properly to deal with such a large battery bank.
If you simply remove 2 of the batteries, you drop the chance of the LBCD dosconnecting to virtually zero, as 2 batts, unless completely shorted and dead(cant even crank truck), would have a hard time overloading the alt to a point where the LBCD would disconnect, even when stone dead.
Removing the disco relay guarantees zero disconnects, while still retaining the capacitor spike absorbing/filtration capability. You can probably sell that disconnect on ebay for $$$(~$600 new). Or disconnect its control wire from the LBCD, leaving remote switched disconnect control from the dash and passrnger engine bay, which is a good feature IMO.
The LBCD provides the only automatic charging system monitoring(drives charging failure dash light) on any of these trucks. That would be an easy enough feature to add though with a simple voltage sense circuit driving the dash light. You could probably even make it flash
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Does the LCBD cap spike absorbing capability provide enough to combat a bad alt regulator? I've noticed that my voltmeter is spiking to 30+volts on occasion (runs at 28 mostly), which accounts for the 3503 code I'm getting on the wtec display fault code memory #2. However Not sure if the analog guage is just bad. The regulator is new ($800 from Midwest) but it's worrying me. I'm going to put my fluke on max record and see what the spike is. I'd have thought the battery and cappys would keep that from happening.Dedicated power systems might be a little overkill. The systems you are talking about powering are pretty robust, otherwise we would be discussung their failures here regularly, and we simply do not, despite all the alt and batt issues we see. There are other ways to do this also, Newmar makes products for just this purpose, start-guard and nav-guard I think? But it addresses a non-existent issue IMO.
This also does not address the root cause of all the power and alternator issues, an alt not sized properly to deal with such a large battery bank.
If you simply remove 2 of the batteries, you drop the chance of the LBCD dosconnecting to virtually zero, as 2 batts, unless completely shorted and dead(cant even crank truck), would have a hard time overloading the alt to a point where the LBCD would disconnect, even when stone dead.
Removing the disco relay guarantees zero disconnects, while still retaining the capacitor spike absorbing/filtration capability. You can probably sell that disconnect on ebay for $$$(~$600 new). Or disconnect its control wire from the LBCD, leaving remote switched disconnect control from the dash and passrnger engine bay, which is a good feature IMO.
The LBCD provides the only automatic charging system monitoring(drives charging failure dash light) on any of these trucks. That would be an easy enough feature to add though with a simple voltage sense circuit driving the dash light. You could probably even make it flash
Not a clue if it can absorb that, the fact you are getting a trans code prettymuch confirms a spike and it not being absorbed. This could be a diode breaking down in the rectifiers in the alt chassis...
Wow both those were entertaining reads. I think I saved 20 new bookmarks for later! I keep forgetting that LBCD is under there. Luckily I'm changing a cracky looking front tire which had no DOT label, so the spare tire crane is already lowered. I was looking at that heat sink LBCD knowing I was supposed to look at those terminals right after the starter mishap.
This is the exact response I had today. I removed the LBCD from the power circuit bc of other threads. Then ran the truck. I was getting 29.2 to 27.3 with 2 spikes at 33.4 and 33.15 over 30 minutes of truck idling. The voltmeter is wavy between those first numbers. I shut it off, pulled the cable (as you suggested) on the VR and hit it with CRC and some paper shop towel reaming. Looked clean. Put it back on and now it's rock solid at 28 on guage. I did turn off the battery disconnect thou. DMM is saying 28.4 - 27.9.
As they are microprocessor based, they have to be using a PID control function. It's the standard loop control. And The I and D terms need some level of recording into a memory stack in order to function. I wonder if the E switching resets the whole memory stack. When PID's get out of sorts and start cycling, I've found in PLC work that resetting the I data especially, makes them recalculate and settle down.
Oh that’s great to hear! As far as I can tell there is no memory in there. On the test bench I reset power multiple times to the VR and it didn’t make a difference until I messed with the VR harness.
So if all connections were 100% in theory, AND the regulator is new or not faulty, AND the load on the PDP is constant, then the Voltage at X3 and X4 should be 28.0 and 14.0 steady with no fluctuation? Or maybe +\-0.5 offset but still steady? That'd be my expectation as the circuit designer. Im wondering how adaptive the process-control of the VR is and if some of the voltage weirdness I've seen is not evidence of a bad connection or bad VR, but actually normal response prior to the regulator self correcting?
