Lmtv a1r door lock key?

[Mullaney]

Nope. Just started looking.


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I replaced the handles on my M1089. It isn't really all that bad. On the other hand, I wasn't smart enough to carry my new (used) handles to the locksmith first... So, if you figure out the magic to remove the key cylinder I would be grateful because an $8 lockset is a cheap way to lock the doors!

I just remember standing on my head replacing the locks.
Just looking for quick and easy.
VERY RARE thing on these trucks!

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Just drive to an old school locksmith and have a key made. Should cost about $25. $5 for a copy if you have an original. Every locksmith should have blanks. They are Trimark locks - used on millions of motorhomes and RV's. Extremely common.

 

[GCecchetto]

Anybody else have the problem on your A1R; if you lock the door and work the handle the mechanism will slip and unlock? I can post a video I guess, but it doesn't stay up and block the handle, it slides down over time and thus can be defeated. Not sure if the parts are worn or if there is another mechanism missing. Thoughts?

My 2008 A1R does that as well. Both doors, you lock them from the inside, but when you pull on the latch handle they just on lock and the door opens. My cylinders say TM202 on them and I had keys made before I picked up my truck in Maryland, hoping to be able to lock the doors on the way home across the country but they didn't work. The locksmith in Frederick Maryland that started the thread about making keys for them even called my local locksmith and told him how to make them. Supposedly the later style handles no longer use the double sided volvo blank, but the single sided keys that were made for my truck clearly aren't right, so I'm wondering if my truck has the older style cylinders in it,

The main issue right now is figuring out why the doors won't lock though. Doesn't matter if I sort out the keying but the doors just pop open when you pull on the latch handle. Also curios if it is normal for the inside driver side lever to push down to open and the passenger side pull up to open, or If someone just installed a driver side latch on the passenger side so its function is upside down>

 

[GeneralDisorder]

No. The inside handles should both pull up.

If the door handle unlocks with jiggling then the outside door handle assembly is worn out.

This is what the newest revision handles use for keys:

 

[serpico760]

My 2008 A1R does that as well. Both doors, you lock them from the inside, but when you pull on the latch handle they just on lock and the door opens. My cylinders say TM202 on them and I had keys made before I picked up my truck in Maryland, hoping to be able to lock the doors on the way home across the country but they didn't work. The locksmith in Frederick Maryland that started the thread about making keys for them even called my local locksmith and told him how to make them. Supposedly the later style handles no longer use the double sided volvo blank, but the single sided keys that were made for my truck clearly aren't right, so I'm wondering if my truck has the older style cylinders in it,

The main issue right now is figuring out why the doors won't lock though. Doesn't matter if I sort out the keying but the doors just pop open when you pull on the latch handle. Also curios if it is normal for the inside driver side lever to push down to open and the passenger side pull up to open, or If someone just installed a driver side latch on the passenger side so its function is upside down>

I had the original small square Volvo handles and I upgraded to these and they're great! Bought them from Austin hardware you can get them keyed alike. You have to order the trim rings as separate items. Very secure and don't pop open like the ones you mentioned. By the way you don't have to cut as big of a hole as this guy did I got away with a much smaller hole

 

[GeneralDisorder]

I had the original small square Volvo handles and I upgraded to these and they're great! Bought them from Austin hardware you can get them keyed alike. You have to order the trim rings as separate items. Very secure and don't pop open like the ones you mentioned.

A1R's already have the Trimark paddle handles. They don't need this modification.

 

[GCecchetto]

No. The inside handles should both pull up.

If the door handle unlocks with jiggling then the outside door handle assembly is worn out.

This is what the newest revision latches use for keys:

View attachment 909591

That would be why my keys don’t work They look like this.

 

[GCecchetto]

Guess I’m ordering new latches then. Bummer, they aren’t cheap.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

That would be why my keys don’t work They look like this.
View attachment 909595

Well.... Not exactly. Note I said newest revision. The original handles on my 2008 used this key. And your original handles should use the exact same key (all of the FMTV's used the same key code if they had the same revision handle):



I had these cut by my local smith using a cylinder I pulled from my truck. Worked perfectly on both. But that doesn't solve the worn out unlocking. Mine didn't do that but would toss the handle to latch control rod because they had too much slop. New handles and new latches and the Dorman metal linkage clips solved that problem.

 

[GCecchetto]

No. The inside handles should both pull up.

If the door handle unlocks with jiggling then the outside door handle assembly is worn out.

This is what the newest revision handles use for keys:

View attachment 909591

Do you have a good source for the handles and latches vs MWME? Also, can you post a link to the dorman metal clips you mentioned?

 

[serpico760]

Austin hardware carry them I think, that's where I got mine.

Paddle Handles - Handles - All Products

Austin Hardware & Supply, Inc. is a wholesale stocking distributor of specialty industrial and vehicular hardwaree.

www.austinhardware.com

.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Do you have a good source for the handles and latches vs MWME? Also, can you post a link to the dorman metal clips you mentioned?

I haven't found an alternate source for them. I'm guessing that MME is buying them directly from TriMark. The part numbers are:

Left:
20934-01
2540-01-523-2791

Right:
20933-01
2540-01-523-2765

I found mine on a random ebay listing and they were clearly surplus.

 

[GCecchetto]

I haven't found an alternate source for them. I'm guessing that MME is buying them directly from TriMark. The part numbers are:

Left:
20934-01
2540-01-523-2791

Right:
20933-01
2540-01-523-2765

I found mine on a random ebay listing and they were clearly surplus.

Okay, thanks. I have them, as well as the latches, in my cart at MWME already. Looks like both 1st gen and 2nd gen handles use the same latches.

By the way, turns out I do have the correct hardware in the passenger door. Someone just installed the door release lever facing backwards so it was an upward rotation to open. Funny how you don’t notice the little things when you have much larger things to focus on

 

[GCecchetto]

What's the trick for removing the round plastic lock knob. I don't want to break it. is there some trick I'm missing?

 

[TomTime]

If it’s the same as on the A1’s then it just unscrews, counterclockwise.

 

[GCecchetto]

If it’s the same as on the A1’s then it just unscrews, counterclockwise.

That's what I thought, but mine just spin, so I'm assuming the captive nut in the plastic is spinning. I also have new latches and lock boxes coming, so hopefully that nut is in the latch otherwise I'll have more new parts to source.

 

[TomTime]

Here’s a few photographs of a lock button that I have for a spare.

 

[GCecchetto]

Here’s a few photographs of a lock button that I have for a spare.

Ahh, so the button threads off the shaft, not the shaft out of the latch. On mine the shaft is spinning with the button. I'll hold the shaft with some needle nose pliers. Thanks

 

[GCecchetto]

Anyone have a source for the gaskets for the gen 2 trimark handles? The Mil part number is 50127, for one side, but Joe at MWME says they have to be the same part even though there are two part numbers. They don't have them in stock and are going to inquire with Trimark to see if they can order them. My truck very clearly has gaskets, although very dry and cracked, so I would like to find the gaskets. I have some felpro cork gasket material, so I can make them if i have to, but I would rather just buy them.

 

[GCecchetto]

Okay, I believe these are the correct gasket. They have a $20 minimum order, so I ad to buy 10 of them, and shipping was ridiculous for what they are $28! Anyway, I keep a spare set for myself, so I'll have enough left for 3 trucks if anyone wants to buy them, I'll sell them for what I paid plus whatever it costs to send them USPS to you.