Lmtv a1r door lock key?

[GeneralDisorder]

Okay, I believe these are the correct gasket. They have a $20 minimum order, so I ad to buy 10 of them, and shipping was ridiculous for what they are $28! Anyway, I keep a spare set for myself, so I'll have enough left for 3 trucks if anyone wants to buy them, I'll sell them for what I paid plus whatever it costs to send them USPS to you.

Those look the correct shape - the ones I used were 3/32" (0.095") thickness and the diagram calls for 2 per handle (4 per truck). There's a spacer plate between the two gaskets that you can salvage. There's a lot of flex to the door panel and a lot of crush to the gaskets. I needed to go back in and retorque mine after the gaskets crushed down a bit. The one's I used were a lot softer than a shore 70. They were neoprene and probably a shore 30. Shore 70 isn't going to crush nearly as much - that's about the consistency of a tennis shoe sole......

 

[GCecchetto]

Those look the correct shape - the ones I used were 3/32" (0.095") thickness and the diagram calls for 2 per handle (4 per truck). There's a spacer plate between the two gaskets that you can salvage. There's a lot of flex to the door panel and a lot of crush to the gaskets. I needed to go back in and retorque mine after the gaskets crushed down a bit. The one's I used were a lot softer than a shore 70. They were neoprene and probably a shore 30. Shore 70 isn't going to crush nearly as much - that's about the consistency of a tennis shoe sole......

Well, maybe I'm using 4 rather than 2, so only one full additional set, plus a couple of spares, if someone wants it.

 

[ramdough]

A1R's already have the Trimark paddle handles. They don't need this modification.

View attachment 909596

This matches my door handles.

How tricky is it to get them out or swap cylinders or get keys made?


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[GeneralDisorder]

This matches my door handles.

How tricky is it to get them out or swap cylinders or get keys made?


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Not that hard - you just remove the whole handle. It's 2 bolts and some linkage once you get the door panel off. Can be a little tricky with the linkage clips but many have come before you and managed it so.......

 

[GCecchetto]

I got my new door handles, latches, and locks today. Mad a special trip down the hill to the locksmith to have the cylinders in the door handles rekeyed before installing them.

I about fell over when the flunky at the counter comes back after talking with the locksmith and tells me it would be $90 per handle to rekey them and $8 per key. It was almost 5:30, so too late to find another locksmith and drive there, so I’ll be going down the hill again tomorrow in hopes of finding a locksmith that doesn’t have his head in the clouds. I would really like to get the installation done this weekend along with my other front eco hub.

 

[ramdough]

I got my new door handles, latches, and locks today. Mad a special trip down the hill to the locksmith to have the cylinders in the door handles rekeyed before installing them.

I about fell over when the flunky at the counter comes back after talking with the locksmith and tells me it would be $90 per handle to rekey them and $8 per key. It was almost 5:30, so too late to find another locksmith and drive there, so I’ll be going down the hill again tomorrow in hopes of finding a locksmith that doesn’t have his head in the clouds. I would really like to get the installation done this weekend along with my other front eco hub.

So, I was wondering if I could order two matching sets of these:

TriMark - Lock cylinder keyed tm202, comes with1 key only

Lock cylinder keyed tm202, comes with1 key only TriMark is one of the world's leading innovators, designers, and manufacturers of vehicle door hardware. TriMark offers a comprehensive selection of handles, latches, linkages, hinges, and complete

www.austinhardware.com

Then swap them in myself.

Is that the correct part? Anyone know?


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[GeneralDisorder]

Why rekey them? These doors are easy to slim-jim. I don't see the point. If someone comes prepared with that style of FMTV key then it not working isn't likely to stop them. Anyone that familiar with these trucks and intent on gaining access to your truck isn't going to be stopped by changing a door lock cylinder. Just saying. The social engineering aspect of it isn't there. If you have keys for the new locks then that's plenty good enough. Get a warlok for the parking brake, and key the ignition circuit.

 

[GCecchetto]

So, I was wondering if I could order two matching sets of these:

TriMark - Lock cylinder keyed tm202, comes with1 key only

Lock cylinder keyed tm202, comes with1 key only TriMark is one of the world's leading innovators, designers, and manufacturers of vehicle door hardware. TriMark offers a comprehensive selection of handles, latches, linkages, hinges, and complete

www.austinhardware.com

Then swap them in myself.

Is that the correct part? Anyone know?


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Looks correct, but the TM202 key code is the military code they all get keyed to, so in theory there are a boat load of those keys floating around. If you’re after security, I would have them rekeyed before installing them.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Looks correct, but the TM202 key code is the military code they all get keyed to, so in theory there are a boat load of those keys floating around. If you’re after security, I would have them rekeyed before installing them.

There actually are NOT that many of these keys floating around. These trucks were not actually equipped with that style of cylinder from the factory and at the unit level the door keys are typically tossed in the trash. It's only the updated handles that used that key so the handles would have to have been replaced at the unit level. They lock the trucks with a chain and a padlock around the steering wheel. The A1P2 doesn't have a keyed door handle and neither does just about anything else the military has. The A1P2 door handle has a padlock eyelet.

So actually there's relatively few of these keys out there. Almost all of these trucks will have the A0/A1 style handle that uses a volvo blank or the factory A1R handle that uses the single sided key you originally had cut that didn't work. So to encounter someone with the right key and the knowledge of all the different handle series used on these trucks..... yeah that person exists (I'm that person) and also that person has no desire to feloniously access your cab.

 

[GCecchetto]

There actually are NOT that many of these keys floating around. These trucks were not actually equipped with that style of cylinder from the factory and at the unit level the door keys are typically tossed in the trash. It's only the updated handles that used that key so the handles would have to have been replaced at the unit level. They lock the trucks with a chain and a padlock around the steering wheel. The A1P2 doesn't have a keyed door handle and neither does just about anything else the military has. The A1P2 door handle has a padlock eyelet.

So actually there's relatively few of these keys out there. Almost all of these trucks will have the A0/A1 style handle that uses a volvo blank or the factory A1R handle that uses the single sided key you originally had cut that didn't work. So to encounter someone with the right key and the knowledge of all the different handle series used on these trucks..... yeah that person exists (I'm that person) and also that person has no desire to feloniously access your cab.

The replacement handles I got from MWME aren’t TM202. I forget what the key code is, 1088 I think. Supposedly all of these coming out of Trimark have this key, and these are pretty popular handle in the RV world so my preference would be to rekey them. That said, if I can’t find a smith willing to charge a fair fee to rekey them on my way home, I’m just going to install. And that chain and padlock you mentioned is still in my cab. Used it on the way home from Maryland.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

The replacement handles I got from MWME aren’t TM202. I forget what the key code is, 1088 I think. Supposedly all of these coming out of Trimark have this key, and these are pretty popular handle in the RV world so my preference would be to rekey them. That said, if I can’t find a smith willing to charge a fair fee to rekey them on my way home, I’m just going to install. And that chain and padlock you mentioned is still in my cab. Used it on the way home from Maryland.

Mine are 1022

 

[GCecchetto]

Mine are 1022

Yep, I think that’s what mine are as well.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Yep, I think that’s what mine are as well.

Here's a good video from Locklab showing a similar "quality" of RV lock and how easy it is to get the lock open. These types of locks are honestly an absolute joke and anyone with a wave rake can be through them in seconds:

Despite what MWM charges for them, these are $90 door handles (what the military buys them for) and that means the lock itself after you deduct the cost of everything else including profit is probably $5. They are NOT designed for true security and anyone intent on getting in IS getting in. They will stop the casual homeless guy that's walking around checking doors - that's about it.

 

[ramdough]

There actually are NOT that many of these keys floating around. These trucks were not actually equipped with that style of cylinder from the factory and at the unit level the door keys are typically tossed in the trash. It's only the updated handles that used that key so the handles would have to have been replaced at the unit level. They lock the trucks with a chain and a padlock around the steering wheel. The A1P2 doesn't have a keyed door handle and neither does just about anything else the military has. The A1P2 door handle has a padlock eyelet.

So actually there's relatively few of these keys out there. Almost all of these trucks will have the A0/A1 style handle that uses a volvo blank or the factory A1R handle that uses the single sided key you originally had cut that didn't work. So to encounter someone with the right key and the knowledge of all the different handle series used on these trucks..... yeah that person exists (I'm that person) and also that person has no desire to feloniously access your cab.

I have illusions on how secure these trucks are. I just want a way to keep honest people honest.

I really don’t care if the locks match. I just want a key and a way to lock both doors. Preferably two working locks on case one is frozen or damaged.


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[GeneralDisorder]

I have illusions on how secure these trucks are. I just want a way to keep honest people honest.

I really don’t care if the locks match. I just want a key and a way to lock both doors. Preferably two working locks on case one is frozen or damaged.

So pull out a door handle and have a key made for it. I did this like the first week I owned the truck after getting it home. I agree 100% that you need to have a key to secure the door against "honest" (Unprepared and Unsophisticated would be a better description than Honest) people. But I reiterate that anyone that wants in is going to get in and if they know FMTV's they will have one of each possible stock key, a pocket sized pick set, and a slim jim of all else fails. If they came prepared to get in they will, in all likelihood, be successful. And realistically a criminal intent in getting in is likely going to just smash the glass and grab whatever and be down the road with it in seconds. Someone that comes to stealthily steal the whole truck..... yeah never gonna happen but if it did that guy comes prepared I guarantee.

 

[GCecchetto]

Well, it seems the locksmiths in my area are A) crooks, B) not prepared to work on Trimark locks, or C) completely disinterested………so, I’m joining the 1022 club.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

You could always add these to the door:

Amazon.com

 

[TomTime]

You could always add these to the door:

Amazon.com

Unfortunately those can be cut off with a reciprocating saw. Several videos out there showing those locks can be defeated in under a minute. Had a friend that had one cutoff of his construction van.
Entry into a vehicle is hard to secure due to various issues. You do what you can and move on with that. Like what was said, it keeps the honest people honest.
If you’re looking to keep it from being stolen, the chain and lock is good, and like General said, get a brake valve lock, they work good. Install 2-3 carefully hidden cutout switches, they have worked the best for me. You just have to make sure no one sees you using the switches and of course remember where you hide them. (Getting old).
Also drain your tanks after every use, they’ll have to build up air before moving. If I’m home I’ll hear the truck starting and I’ll be outside at the truck in less than 15 seconds with a SPAS-12…it makes a very nice earring!

 

[GCecchetto]

So, as it turns out, my handles were not worn out, the rod from the lock lever to the door handle was disconnected. My handles were pretty fugly so I would have changed them out ultimately anyway. On the bright side, I now know what the clanky noise is that I hear in both doors when I go around corners. Passenger door done, will have to wait until the weather coming is gone through since I can't finish a door the same day I start it due to painting the spacer and having to let the paint dry overnight.

Some things I learned that I'll share to save the next guy some headache. Keep in mind, this an A1R with the gen 2 trimark handles.

1) the latches from MWME are not identical to the what was used at the factory. There is one unused plastic rod clip you need to remove and the lever that the round lock knob goes into has two holes in it rather than one. You need to install the little rod that goes through the door panel in the top hole. The hole is also larger than the original so the rod will be swimming in the hole and you just have to hold it in place to tighten it down in the center.
2) MWME sells the latches, but they don't sell the gaskets or spacers. The link I posted above is for the correct gaskets and you need two per handle as GD said. The lamination is door handle/gasket/spacer/gasket. The part number for the passenger side spacer is 19207-12423653 MFG # 0FW39. I know from talking to Joe at MWME that the TM's show a left and right gasket, so they probably show a left and right spacer. The gaskets are the same, one size fits all, and the only difference I can see in the spacer would be that the spacer has a slight curve to match the door, so in a pinch the same part would work for both sides. When I do the drivers side, I’ll get the spacer part number and post it here.

 

[GCecchetto]

So, as it turns out, my handles were not worn out, the rod from the lock lever to the door handle was disconnected. My handles were pretty fugly so I would have changed them out ultimately anyway. On the bright side, I now know what the clanky noise is that I hear in both doors when I go around corners. Passenger door done, will have to wait until the weather coming is gone through since I can't finish a door the same day I start it due to painting the spacer and having to let the paint dry overnight.

Some things I learned that I'll share to save the next guy some headache. Keep in mind, this an A1R with the gen 2 trimark handles.

1) the latches from MWME are not identical to the what was used at the factory. There is one unused plastic rod clip you need to remove and the lever that the round lock knob goes into has two holes in it rather than one. You need to install the little rod that goes through the door panel in the top hole. The hole is also larger than the original so the rod will be swimming in the hole and you just have to hold it in place to tighten it down in the center.
2) MWME sells the latches, but they don't sell the gaskets or spacers. The link I posted above is for the correct gaskets and you need two per handle as GD said. The lamination is door handle/gasket/spacer/gasket. The part number for the passenger side spacer is 19207-12423653 MFG # 0FW39. I know from talking to Joe at MWME that the TM's show a left and right gasket, so they probably show a left and right spacer. The gaskets are the same, one size fits all, and the only difference I can see in the spacer would be that the spacer has a slight curve to match the door, so in a pinch the same part would work for both sides. When I do the drivers side, I’ll get the spacer part number and post it here.

The spacer part# in my last post is good for driver and passenger side.