• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

LMTV CTIS Question

R

Ronmar

Well-known member
3,265
6,607
113
Location
Port angeles wa
Where were those voltages measured at? If at the batteries, thats not bad, but I would also compare with voltages directly at the alternator terminals. That is where the regulator regulates the voltage to. They put a lot of connections on these trucks When they incorporated the polarity box/lbcd. They are also out in the weather between spare and air filter. If it is an A0, there are also extra connections on the ground path, as they put an instrunment shunt(measures current flow) in the ground path back to the batteries also out in the weather near the polarity protection box. Corroded connections there are a very common issue And could easilly cost you a tenth or so if any current is flowing thru the wire… y9u need to lower the spare and crawl in there to access them…
 
Hobie_rat

Hobie_rat

Member
43
64
16
Location
North Carolina
Ronmar said:
Yea the whole unit is potted horribly, no internal box access. I couldn’t remember if the keyboard had any access. I gutted my dead one to make my first manual controller prottype.
Click to expand...
News from the ctis front. The old unit has STB. Fortunately I was able to get another one and so, for now the immediate ctis problem is solved. Now back to air leaks. Thank you all for your appreciated input👍🏻
 
Hobie_rat

Hobie_rat

Member
43
64
16
Location
North Carolina
Ronmar said:
The simplest way is to add a high current switch on that ground lead. This will stop the truck from drawing any current(and kill that 12v vampire). It will NOT however remove the difference in potential between 12 and 24V, so you can still run into issues when working on the truck electrical, like say wrenching on the alternator as you will still see 12V across the 12-24 terminals. So you should still lift battery leads when performing electrical maintenance.
Click to expand...
Hi Guys! Does anyone know what key blank fit the door handle lock for an Lmtv. I saw a video that mentioned in the comments section a cut down Land Rover key works. Any ideas? I’ve Tory Memphis Equipment with no luck. Thx
 
Third From Texas

Third From Texas

Well-known member
2,704
6,327
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
Hobie_rat said:
Hi Guys! Does anyone know what key blank fit the door handle lock for an Lmtv. I saw a video that mentioned in the comments section a cut down Land Rover key works. Any ideas? I’ve Tory Memphis Equipment with no luck. Thx
Click to expand...
There's a thread. Somewhere.

I think my locksmith said it was a Volvo key of some sort, but he had one (years ago when I had my first A0).

Keep in mind that the A0/A1 are different from the Trimark used in the A1R

*btw: I was warned that ALL A1R trucks use the same key, so A1R guys might want to pull the cylinders and have a smith re-key them (I did).
 
Last edited:
Third From Texas

Third From Texas

Well-known member
2,704
6,327
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
Discussions and pics of key blanks used, etc:

FMTV Door Key?

Has anyone found out the key blank to use for the FMTV? I was going to take the locks out to try to have a key made. Do you think they are a common key like the CUCV? Thanks, John
www.steelsoldiers.com

LMTV door lock key

The door lock uses an older Volvo key blank. I took the lock out and up to my local locksmith and he figured it out. When I got back I tried the key in the passenger side and it did not work so different keys. The lock cylinder is held together with roll pins he didnt want to take it apart for...
www.steelsoldiers.com

FMTV door handle/Lock How to make Keys or have the proper ones made.

Making Keys to the FMTV or Any Other Vehicle. We are focusing on the FMTV. It was made by BAE Systems Land and Armaments, then in 2011 switched to Oshkosh Corporation. First look at the door handle and the lock where you insert the key. Sometimes there’s some letters and number, a local LMTV...
www.steelsoldiers.com

Door keys for M1088-A1

I recently imported a MTV 1088-A1 (2001) the truck arrived with no keys, I am in the UK I have managed to take a photo of the back of the lock and the number on drivers side door reads KA 082 with this information can anyone cut a key or 2 ? I did message a member who was supposedly the...
www.steelsoldiers.com



Untitled.png

lmtv key.jpg
 
S

Stellaevil

Active member
120
48
28
Location
Michigan
Hobie_rat said:
I have a question. My ‘96 1078’s ctis seems to operate ok except the hwy switch doesn’t activate and light up. It do when I bought the truck 3weeks ago. Now it doesn’t. No threads talk about this situation. Any ideas
Click to expand...
Sounds like the switch is bad. You could take the metal bezel off and use a razor knife to cut around 3 sides of the button then peel the cover back and see if you can clean the contacts. The metal dome will come out and you could use a metal clip to short the contact and make sure they work. If it still won't go to Highway after shorting the contacts then something else internal is wrong.
 
Hobie_rat

Hobie_rat

Member
43
64
16
Location
North Carolina
Ronmar said:
The simplest way is to add a high current switch on that ground lead. This will stop the truck from drawing any current(and kill that 12v vampire). It will NOT however remove the difference in potential between 12 and 24V, so you can still run into issues when working on the truck electrical, like say wrenching on the alternator as you will still see 12V across the 12-24 terminals. So you should still lift battery leads when performing electrical maintenance.
Click to expand...
I like that idea as I would disconnect the leads anyway. My thought for the switch are to kill any vampire voltage and theft prevention
 
M

Maddog Driver

Member
17
27
13
Location
Forsyth Co, GA
Back to CTIS...I have a 1079 that arrived with 5 flashing and holding pressure. After changing all tire/wheels to new assemblies, the under inflated new tires inflated to HWY and the system seemed to start working. A while later, I got a 1082 trailer and hooked up the air and electrics to move it to storage. Brake air worked ok but CTIS went to 5 solid and has been there ever since, still maintaining HWY pressure. Haven't connected the trailer since. Any analysis Stellaevil ?
 
Third From Texas

Third From Texas

Well-known member
2,704
6,327
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
Maddog Driver said:
Back to CTIS...I have a 1079 that arrived with 5 flashing and holding pressure. After changing all tire/wheels to new assemblies, the under inflated new tires inflated to HWY and the system seemed to start working. A while later, I got a 1082 trailer and hooked up the air and electrics to move it to storage. Brake air worked ok but CTIS went to 5 solid and has been there ever since, still maintaining HWY pressure. Haven't connected the trailer since. Any analysis Stellaevil ?
Click to expand...
From my experience, 5-solid is a brick.

If that's the case, I highly recommend Plasa's replacement controller base on the Arduino platform. It's less expensive than a used take-off replacement, it's customizable, and it's plug-n-play.
 
Third From Texas

Third From Texas

Well-known member
2,704
6,327
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
Maddog Driver said:
Kinda sheepish about hooking up the trailer again...
Click to expand...
Trailer has no interaction with the CTIS system.

Drag that sucker like you stole it...

Your controller didn't fail due to the trailer being hooked up. They fail. It's what they do. Often.

If you're worried about the truck tires psi, just leave the controller unplugged. You can air the tires up and check psi at the valve stem. With the controller out of the equation, the tires will be fine unless you have a leak in the system.

Assuming your controller is bricked, you have four choices:

1) toss the controller and run it like a normal truck w/o CTIS
2) purchase another OEM controller (just keep in mind, they seem to die at will new or old)
3) purchase another controller solution (like the Arduino)
4) make a manual controller

IMO, you'll be pissing away money if you replace it with another OEM unit. I went with the Arduino because it was relatively inexpensive and plug-and-play. A manual controller is a solid option, but you'll have to make it from scratch and run hoses and stuff.
 
Last edited:
M

Maddog Driver

Member
17
27
13
Location
Forsyth Co, GA
Third From Texas said:
From my experience, 5-solid is a brick.

If that's the case, I highly recommend Plasa's replacement controller base on the Arduino platform. It's less expensive than a used take-off replacement, it's customizable, and it's plug-n-play.
Click to expand...
Can you assist my contact with
Third From Texas said:
If you look at the trailer's wheels, the CTIS is not hooked up. They leave the valve system on the tires for interchangeability, but the trailer has no CTIS.
Click to expand...
Good counsel, both...Thank you.
 
T

TomTime

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
691
1,666
93
Location
MD.
I believe you need a little more threads on SS before they will let you PM. Of course you can go through the moderator to help you contact @Plasa .

Or...just send a thread through here and put in, @Plasa and he will get a notification he was mentioned in a thread and most likely look it up and contact you.

Here is just a small mention of the controller. Start at thread #473 and up.

MV Addiction filled. Reis the Beast M1078A0 is born

thats crazy...... Maybe fore you go much further put a "run out gauge" (think that is proper term/tool) on the block and dial it to your crank end. slowly turn it and see if it turns w/out micro wobble? Or maybe just to check if the end of the crank is not milled funky.... that is such a...
www.steelsoldiers.com

Hope this helps a little.

Tom.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
108,348members
163,642threads
2,302,642posts
1,796online users
Top
✖
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks