LMTV CTIS Question

[Plasa]

It's the ufficial dana/spicer ctis troubleshooting manual.
Christian

What document is this wiring diagram from?

 

[ramdough]

It's the ufficial dana/spicer ctis troubleshooting manual.
Christian

Can someone post it to the manuals/TM section?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Tortuga]

These recent posts reminded me of some quirks I have with my CTIS system. For the most part my system functions normally. I have two different CTIS controllers. The first has a torn button ribbon cable. Therefore this controller will only run in hwy mode, but other then that functions perfectly.

I also have a 2nd Spicer controller. With this controller installed I can change between modes with no issues. However this is where it gets quirky. With this control set to highway mode I will always get a blinking and then solid "CTIS OVER SPEED" light on the dash.

Since everything seems to be functioning I have just ignored it, but it is annoying.

PS. For what its worth the previous owner of my truck always said that he had CTIS issues until he "cleaned up" some of the 12v and 24v power supply channels. He installed a Bussman battery equalizer and did some wiring and said everything related to the CTIS started working.

 

[Ronmar]

Bad voltages and grounds cause issues, but it sounds like one of those units is programmed for a different pulse per mile than your vehicle delivers. I think Superman can reprogram them

 

[Tortuga]

Bad voltages and grounds cause issues, but it sounds like one of those units is programmed for a different pulse per mile than your vehicle delivers. I think Superman can reprogram them

I have issues with my tach (not working) , speedo (bouncing/wrong speed), and possibly harder than normal shifts. So that might explain the CTIS issue as well. I know I am located closer to Superman then most. At some point I have to meet him and pick his brain. I need to look into east coast meetups.

 

[Stellaevil]

What document is this wiring diagram from?

AXTS0015 Troubleshooting Guide

 

[Stellaevil]

Can someone post it to the manuals/TM section?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Spicer CTIS Trouble Shooting Guide

Here is the CTIS Trouble shooting guide. It really helped me. http://media.spicerparts.com/cfs/files/media/WQ86BTpCnbQ52SaSq/axts-0015.pdf?token=eyJhdXRoVG9rZW4iOiIifQ%3D%3D&store=original

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[hike]

Well that project is finished. It was actually pretty straight forward after identifying the wires it was just a matter of splicing the four wires into a longer cable to the switch. View attachment 896349View attachment 896350

Would you share what settings you use on your high/low programs?

 

[Keith Knight]

Are referring to the my picture with the high low sticker I made?

 

[Keith Knight]

That switch switches between the original pressure sensor and the after market sensor that tricks the system into thinking it at original pressure when in reality it’s about 20 psi higher. No programming required.

 

[hike]

Thank you.

I am thinking about trying to find the different programming different power routes may provide [H, M, or Z] that @GeneralDisorder mentioned on another thread. Thought you may have gone that route. I am wondering if I really need 6 or 9 different settings?

 

[Keith Knight]

Back when I did it we didn’t have all this newer information and choices. I actually just recently bought the cables and program to make changes to the CTIS ECU and trying to decide what my optimal pressures should be programmed to for each setting. Weighing 27,000 pounds.

 

[aw113sgte]

I'd really recommend getting a diagnostic interface and the Dana software(free). There is also a ton of other software for other parts of the truck you can access with same interface - getting that software other software can be problematic(expensive). If you want more detailed info you can send me a message.

 

[hike]

I'd really recommend getting a diagnostic interface and the Dana software(free). There is also a ton of other software for other parts of the truck you can access with same interface - getting that software other software can be problematic(expensive). If you want more detailed info you can send me a message.

I have the DANA/Spicer software. It works great. Thinking about adding a switch to change which pin(s) provide power to the ECU to create more pressure options. Is three settings enough? Would six be better?

See the thread that starts here—

...
First off - the Dana/Spicer CTIS controller used in the FMTV family does indeed contain multiple "programs". In fact the controller actually contains NINE different programs. These are accessed through all the various possible combinations of power, ground, and open circuit on pins M and Z of the CTIS controller connector (P110 on the schematic). The various FMTV schematics aren't always clear on this point - many of them show both of them having power, and some actually do show "MTV Only" on pin Z. From looking at my 2008 M1079 A1R compared to the 2001 M1088 A1 we can say that in these two examples the 4x4 truck has 24v fed to pin M and Z is not populated, and the 6x6 truck is the opposite - pin Z has 24v and M is non pinned.
...

 

[aw113sgte]

I have the DANA/Spicer software. It works great. Thinking about adding a switch to change which pin(s) provide power to the ECU to create more pressure options. Is three settings enough? Would six be better?

See the thread that starts here—

Personally I think 4 pressures are more than enough. I can't come up with a theoretical situation where having more would make a difference, as long as you have them programmed for your needs.

 

[hike]

Personally I think 4 pressures are more than enough. I can't come up with a theoretical situation where having more would make a difference, as long as you have them programmed for your needs.

What four pressures do you use and how do you obtain them? And what is the weight of your unit and use case?

 

[aw113sgte]

What four pressures do you use and how do you obtain them? And what is the weight of your unit and use case?

I'm running the stock pressures except for highway, Which I have at 80. Mine is a 6x6, unknown weight but probably around 30,000 lbs. Since mine is big and has a habitat on back it's not going to be doing ultimate rock crawling stuff.

 

[Stellaevil]

Please keep in mind that software configurations set by the ECU pins M and Z also set fault tolerances for a specific chassis. Selecting an incorrect config could cause pressure reading to be inaccurate, over inflations, or even a flashing light fault to occur. S&S and later models are all wired as a 6x6 heavy even if they are a 4x4 cargo. This was done by S&S to give all the chassis the higher tire pressures. One issue is the valves don't close well at the 80psi in the cold and long inflates could overinflate the tires. Hope all this helps...

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Please keep in mind that software configurations set by the ECU pins M and Z also set fault tolerances for a specific chassis. Selecting an incorrect config could cause pressure reading to be inaccurate, over inflations, or even a flashing light fault to occur. S&S and later models are all wired as a 6x6 heavy even if they are a 4x4 cargo. This was done by S&S to give all the chassis the higher tire pressures. One issue is the valves don't close well at the 80psi in the cold and long inflates could overinflate the tires. Hope all this helps...

Interesting - are you referring to the LTAS trucks? The A1P2 trucks with the up armored cabs? My 2008 M1079 A1R 4x4 (non armored) is wired for 55 psi highway.

 

[Stellaevil]

Hello Everyone,
I have run into a holdup on the updated wheel valve release so I am perusing a rebuild kit instead. This kit would include a vented cover and protective bracket, new diaphragm good for -30F operation, and screws. The seat and spring would be your responsibility to clean and reuse.

Here is the the major concern: The cover screws are extremely hard to remove without breaking and they fail right at the body. I would like to get some feedback from many of you on the success rate of loosening these screw.

NOTE! Do not use a drill or impact until they are loosened. You may also try a moderate bit of heat on the body at the screw location. If you break one screw, 3 will hold the cover on fine. Even 2 screws across from each other will sufficiently hold the lid on. Small leaks during inflations and deflations ore acceptable.

Thanks, hope to here from you.....