Long Cold Start Cranking

[cjd]

In warm weather and if the truck's been running in the last couple hours it cranks and starts instantly. If the air temperature is below 40 degrees and you are starting it for the first time of the day, I have to crank it for at least 30 seconds, getting several "bumps" before it finally takes. Is this the sign of a weak fuel pump?

 

[royg]

It's normal for the colder it is, the harder to start. 40 degrees isn't that cold. below 40 isn't very specific.

My first thought would be to test your glow plugs. Even at 70 degrees, bad glow plugs will result in a rough/long/alarming start.

 

[cjd]

The glow plugs are less than a 500 miles old. Above 40 degrees is starts great. Below 40 degrees is takes a ton of cranking. It acts like an old gas car trying to get the fuel back in the bowls...and that's why I ask about a weak fuel pump. Is there a lift pump?

 

[86humv]

your EESS box under dash is probably bad, and it may have fried your glow plugs.

 

[Coug]

hard start like that is most likely glow plug issue.
As 86humv said, just because the glow plugs are new doesn't mean your control box hasn't already fried them.

If you see smoke while cranking then you are getting fuel.
If you don't see any smoke, then it could be a fuel issue.

 

[Coug]

Also, the fact that it cranks for a while then starts, and it runs properly after it starts, would suggest that it is not a fuel system issue. If it was fuel system, the outside temperature shouldn't make such a dramatic difference.

 

[cjd]

So...what's the best box to buy? Is there a way to test it?

Also, here is a thought. If the box and glow plugs don't even last 500 miles, and the truck starts instantly without them above 40 degrees, and just a little slow when cold...then the question is, why not get rid of the glow plugs altogether and just block off the holes?

And, there is a little puff of white smoke (oil) every time the engine gives a chug without starting. There is no noticeable dark (diesel) smoke at all.

 

[Mogman]

You need top troubleshoot before spending any more money, ohm out the glow plugs and then put a volt meter on one of them to see if the EESS box is cycling them correctly, when cold they should have power for 8 seconds or so, changes with temp.

 

[mgFray]

When I got my vehicle the glow plugs were shot, and the EESS box was "fine". I replaced the glow plugs, then found out actually the box was bad. Replaced the temp sensor on the engine (that connects to the box) and the box.. and now it was starting great all the way down to about 40F. Below that you can hear it trying to start, but it died right away. Turned out the temp sensor on the side of the engine that kicked in the low-temp solenoid on the injection pump was bad. Replaced that, and it was much smoother down to freezing. (Unfortunately due to other problems, haven't been able to run it below freezing yet.)

So take it one piece at a time. If your glow plugs are "new", verify they're still good (as mentioned before). Then focus on if they're getitng the voltage they should be for the time they should be. Then verify the temp sensor on the side of the engine...

 

[cjd]

There are 2 temp sensors? One for the glow plugs and the one on the right block for the injector pump? The way you describe it below 40 degrees is exactly that. It fires, but immediately dies. It acts like it is working to build fuel pressure...as in bad check valve or weak fuel pump. If there is a low temp solenoid for the pump, then I would lean towards that. I'll try to look it up in the manual.

The glow plugs ohm good and the box is putting out voltage.

 

[87cr250r]

Just an FYI, in my experience, with a bad injection pump, the engine starts right up but does when you try to drive it. Then the long cranking to get it going again where it will be fine for the rest of the day.

 

[Mainsail]

I replaced the plugs on mine - only three of the eight were doing anything if I remember right - and the truck started great with the new plugs for about 300 miles, then it began to get harder and harder to start as time went on (temps in the mid 40s). Ultimately it wouldn't start at all and billowed mucho white smoke out the tailpipe.

BUT, I knew the plugs I bought (allegedly AC Delco from Erik's) were not the stock NSN plugs. During that time I found and bought the correct plugs.

I tested the plugs after removal; one was high resistance, the rest were open circuit and doing nothing. All were swollen to some degree, one was very difficult to get out.

I'd ohm test them as soon as possible (you can test them in the head) because if they're crap plugs they're swelling, and the more you swell them now the harder it'll be to get them out later.