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Looking at a Deuce.......and would like some help.

RSOVRanger

Member
33
0
6
Location
Alaska
I had the opportunity in the military to be able to operate a couple M35A2's and found the experience enjoyable, even given the circumstances.


Now, I'm a civilian.... but I still like "Green Iron". My offroad rig is a CUCV with a good bit of modifications on it... and I'm looking at picking up a M35A2 by next summer.

My reasoning for an A2 over an A3 is the transmission, multifuel, no ctis...

My biggest questions revolve around the purchase of one.

What should I be looking at both in terms of inspection prior to, attention to be paid during the test drive, and post test drive inspection? Specifically, what bolts/mechanical parts I should visually and physically inspect, what questions to ask, how it should feel on the road or more importantly what are warning signs, etc?

I basically want to make sure that I'm getting a good to go rig right out the gate rather than making a bad choice with a vehicle that require more significant maintenance than your average level of maintenance.



The next questions I have probably would be better suited for the modifications section, but I'll ask them here so I only have one thread to reference.

My purpose for getting this Big f'in truck is two fold. I intend to use it as a truck first and foremost:


  • transporting firewood and anything heavy/bulky basically
  • chaining up with a home-built plow to do my dirt road I live on, as a fun favor to the neighborhood since the grader doesn't end up coming by but once a month in the winter
  • Gin poles combined with the winch for yarding stuff around the yard
I intend on getting one that's winterized (arctic cover, etc) for up here, but also making some sort of a stake-bed extension for the rails so I can load up more wood (or other materials) on the truck. The plow will end up having an A-frame so I can use the winch to hoist it out of the way and a simple pin plate for left/right/V plowing. Gin poles will end up just being shackle mounted with the winch cable for apex elevation and a chain hoist to raise and lower the load.

The second purpose this truck will serve is as an RV. I intend on having a local company that manufactures "Alaskan Grade" slide in campers and truck toppers, custom fabricate a new slide in that will fit in the bed of the truck... the intention is to keep the overall height of the truck to 11'5 or so if possible, possibly cab-over but it'll depend on things. I basically intend to have a fun (I liked driving them so it's fun to me) RV that also can get back further away from "people" than your standard RV you see on the street.

My questions with regards to the RV modifications:


  • Is there any reason you couldn't install another passenger side fuel tank onto the drivers side for double the fuel capacity, if you relocated the spare/hardware on that side? I know I'd have to rig up a tank switching system, or cross tie between the tanks.
  • Where would be a good place to put a dual battery bank on the truck? I intend on going with the add-on 12v alternator so I can power the slide-in as well as independently power any 12v accessories on their own separate bus on the truck (ham radio, other stuff like that) Obviously putting a box instead of a fuel tank on the drivers side would be one option... but with an additional fuel tank, where would the next best place be?
  • What modifications are out there, and not excessively expensive, for increased "Roadability"? I would like to be able to do 55, preferably 65 as a top speed on flat ground. I know the 5th gear replacement is still in the works and would be my preference since it'd maintain everything minus 5th as "normal"
  • Where's the spreadsheet on here that shows civilian counterparts for parts commonality on this truck? I know there's modifications (that I'll get) for spin on oil filters that are more common at truck parts places.. but what about seals, belts, fuel/air filters, etc.
  • Are there any "Civilian" on/off road tires that anyone has used on the stock wheels, and how did that work out both in on/offroad performance and road noise, etc?

Thanks for all the help in advance... I look forward to joining your ranks when the time proves right :)
 

Sephirothq

Well-known member
1,423
26
48
Location
Trevorton / PA
Some of the stuff I can think of
take the driver's side tool box, and the spare tire holder off the truck.
using a passenger's side battery box and a passenger's side fuel tank bolt them in place.
There are kits I have seen in the classifieds section to add an additional 12volt alternator. You would have to buy their 24 volt alternator as well.

the dual tanks have been dicussed in detail before so i won't go into that.

There is talk of a higher geared transfer case that will allow for 63-64 ish mph.

The largest tire I would run is a 11.00 - 20 on the stock rims. Some guys run 1400-20 but that is questionable.
You can get HEMITT rims recentered to run up to a 1600-20, you wll need to lift the truck and remove the rear axle (or increase the distance between them for that)

Stock you can run a 46" tall tire without modifications to the truck.
 

glcaines

Well-known member
3,914
2,593
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
Due to the weather you have in Alaska, I would recommend a Deuce with an ether starting system. In my experience the ether systems work better than the manifold heaters, but others might have other opinions.
 

rchalmers3

Half a mile from the Broad River
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,926
30
48
Location
Irmo, South Carolina
Sephirothq has the best recommendation for configuration. Another would be to keep the tool box under the driver door for tools and chocks and to locate the house batteries in the house, with a quick disconnect for the charging cables. That way your won't be hauling house batteries when there is no house to haul!

Rick
 

RSOVRanger

Member
33
0
6
Location
Alaska
Yeah, I'd be leaving them in since the truck would have 12v accessories on-board... just run a QD cable like for the tow truck jumper cables or removable winches, to the slide-in.

That, and if stupidity hits and I drained the truck's batteries down, I'd have cables set up so I could disconnect the 12v setup and reconnect it as 24v to jump the truck off the truck.


So specific things I should be looking at with regards to selecting a truck? I know I have plans that have lots of pieces but my 50 meter target is getting the truck. I *really* want to do my part in making sure I don't end up buying a huge repair project...

I know it's going to take maintenance and driving it to keep things spinning and rotating is a good thing.. I'd be driving it once a week to my volunteer fire training, as well as more significant driving with the wife. She's used to driving International fuel trucks so "big" isn't a problem, she'd just need road experience with it.
 
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