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Looking for a squeal noise diagnosis.

Herewego

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I recently purchased my first military vehicle, a 1985 M1009 from GSAAUCTIONS.GOV that had not been run for 4 years, but was told she was a great running vehicle. I was advised to replace the batteries, oil, glow plugs, glow plug relay, and did so. Once I did she has been running like a top for the past two weeks. I recently noticed a strange squeaking/squealing noice from [what appears to be] the drivers side rear wheel well. The sound appears to be rotational as the tire spins and stops when the brake is applied. I assumed there was probably a problem with the brake. A visual inspection revealed all pads to have plenty of pad left, all brake dust was removed using brake cleaner, and everything appears to be connected properly. As I read these forums ive become somewhat of a hypocondriack thinking the worst. I have no wobble or shaking from the steering and everything seems to be operational besides the high pitched rotational squeal eminating from the rear wheel area. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. I apologive in advance if this topic has already been covered. No offence but the rules on this website are stricter than the U.C.M.J. I guess for good reason, but it makes me weary about posting any issues or coments.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
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Inspect and your universal joints on your drive shafts. I suspect your rear most universal joint may be dry. I'd replace it, even if it can be greased and the noise goes away.
 

85CUCVtom

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Lakewood, Ohio
Subscribed. :popcorn: Not to hi-jack but, I've been having a similar issue. A really high pitched squeak/squeal noise that is a rotation noise coming from the passenger rear wheel I think. Mine's very intermittent and usually at highway speeds but sometimes does it at around town speeds.

I'm looking at the rear brakes and the universal joints when I'm off work tomorrow.
 
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Warthog

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Welcome to Steelsoldiers.

I agree with Doghead. Check your ujoints.

This site is not like many others on the web. We try to instill self reliance.

Please do not be afraid to ask any questions. Now if you ask how to check the oil or what type of fuel to use, then we may give you a hard time.

Have you downloaded the free technical manuals?
 

rsh4364

Active member
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Location
greensprings ,ohio
funny my 85 m1009 did same thing today, suspected brakes because noise stopped when gently applying brakes, almost 68k miles on it ..what size u joint ?
 

85CUCVtom

Active member
712
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Location
Lakewood, Ohio
So I dug into this Sunday looking for the mystery squeaking/squealing noise on my M1009.

First, I shook down all the u-joints on the truck. I found the rear prop shaft joints to be tight and one of the fronts might have a little play. I’ll have to pull the shaft out to be certain. This shouldn’t matter though as the noise is coming from the rear in 2WD.

Then I pulled the rear drums off and cleaned,inspected and adjusted them. I didn’t see anything out of the ordinary.

So I test drove it and it was still squeaking. I might have a wheel cylinder getting stuck I'm gonna check them out later.

Like I said before, I’m not trying to hijack the thread. I’m just trying to help out with my after action report.
 
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85CUCVtom

Active member
712
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Location
Lakewood, Ohio
Update!

I'm pretty sure I found the problem. The squealer on the passenger side front inboard brake pad was doing it's job and squealing. The pad seems to be worn unevenly. So until I get the cash to do the breaks, I took the die grinder to the squealer just to see if it was the problem. I'm gonna test drive it tonight when I go to school. I'll let everyone know.

It was kinda weird because it really did sound like the noise was coming from the rear. I guess not though. I couldn't find anything else wrong with the truck.
 

Skinny

Well-known member
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Location
Portsmouth, NH
The indicator was indicating a proper indication...

With squeals, you typically want to listen at the rotational speed of the squeal. If it is really slow with vehicle speed...axle/wheel/brake problem. If it is much faster (around 3 to 4 (3 in the case of an M1009), it is usually a pinion/yoke/ujoint issue. Just an FYI next time you are trying to diag it. It atleast gives you a direction to start tearing things apart for inspection.
 

dmilkman589

Member
181
1
18
Location
troy, ny
1 quick tip. i might be the only one that made this mistake but just in-case... when checking the rear u joints be sure to put the transmission in neutral. even if you don't think your on a hill, any little bit of force being applied to the drive shaft will make any u joint play go away. because of this i ended up doing my u joint 300 miles form home in a parking lot. with a socket and an ax.
 
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