Looking for Alcohol Evaporator Kit for M35A2

[saddamsnightmare]

January 09th, 2010.


Gents:
Well, besides the usual doesn't want to get up when its cold issues that "Saddam's Nightmare" starter solenoid and starter relay has, when it does start in the peculiarly unusual cold we're having, the air brake tank drains proceeds to freeze up. This truck doesn't have a cab heater, but it had the cold weather top (steel) for the cab, and was assigned to Vietnam when built and Desert Shield/Desert Storm in 1990/1. We all know it gets colder then hades in the desert at night, but there is no evidence of an Alcohol Evaporator kit ever being applied. I'll be fishing through some of our noble parts suppliers for the starter and heater parts to fabricate a cab heater using the M151 heater unit.... but who has the evaporator kits for the brake system???? I'll rattle the cages of the suppliers on that item, but it seems odd that the last 5 years of its military service this truck was in Peru, Illinois, where I am quite certain they had winters...... She musta sat out the winter deployments????
I need to locate the NSN for the alcohol evaporator kit, the part number is:

P/N 10937856 and it is on Page 227, Figure 226 TM9-2320-361-24P

Any insights would be appreciated,


Cheers,

Kyle F. McGrogan

 

[Srjeeper]

Bendix Kits & Fluid #'s

Kyle,

The kits are no longer in production, but they can still be found at Heavy Duty Truck Parts Dealers. They were made by Bendix and the part #'s are as follows. The kit that was installed on alot of the military vehicles were metal and the # is Bendix 209636, they're hard to come by. The replacement item they then produced is Bendix 209637, that's a plastic version and they can still be found. The fluid that I and others here use in the evaporator systems on the deuce is Gunk "Air Brake Anti-Freeze and Rust Guard" part # M2832 and that comes in either quarts or gallons. This fluid will not harm the rubber seals and various metal parts used in the deuce brake system like other products on the market.

I have seen these kits on e-bay from time to time.....

Good luck.

 

[poof]

check the classifieds today..
some were listed.
J.P.

 

[saddamsnightmare]

January 09th, 2010.

SRJEEPER and POOF:

Thanks for the insights, I'll go fishing at the local truck parts place, where they are absolutely terrified of the M35A2 because they can't hook it up to a computer.......
I also will check the Classifieds and my friends over at White Owl. The truck pulled a rare start yeaterday, and the service air tank froze up within 20 minutes. I usually drain the tanks hourly on the road, more often if needed, and as I may be heading to a colder climate, now is the time to get the starter, solenoid, relay, and cab heater issues nailed down.
Rarely do we see 8*F at night, and more rarely 20*F day time temperatures, so the deuce has been very cranky. BUT even the Unimog did one of Murphy's Specials..... had all the radiator system hoses replaced in 2008 EXCEPT two 3" long guys in the cab heater cabinent (you need a 6" tall German Gnome to get these two), figure which ones developed a crack today & started leaking. So, when the manuals say replace em, replace all of them. The ones you overlook on repairs are the ones that bites you in the tush later.
Being an optimist doesn't always pay......


Cheers and Thanks again....

Kyle F. McGrogan

 

[OD_Coyote]

Kyle - You may want to check ebay every once in awhile, thats where I found my alcohol evap kit for my truck.

 

[m16ty]

I have built them.

You need some sort or tank that can withstand 120psi and a removeable top to add the alcohol. Run the line comming off of the compressor to the bottom of the tank. Have the outlet line in the top of the tank. When in operation the air will bubble up through the alcohol and carry a little of it down stream.

 

[Speddmon]

I have built them.

You need some sort or tank that can withstand 120psi and a removeable top to add the alcohol. Run the line comming off of the compressor to the bottom of the tank. Have the outlet line in the top of the tank. When in operation the air will bubble up through the alcohol and carry a little of it down stream.

Now that's an idea I like...clean and simple

What kind of tank did you use if you don't mind me asking. It would be nice to have something small enough to fit along the frame rail in the engine compartment

 

[m16ty]

What kind of tank did you use if you don't mind me asking. It would be nice to have something small enough to fit along the frame rail in the engine compartment

It's been several years ago and I don't recall. Seems like it was a small air tank of some sort and I had to weld in all of the fittings. Whatever you use it needs to hold atleast a quart and have some air space at the top so you only get vapor downstream.

I got the idea from an old Mack truck. It had a factory made evaporator. I tore it apart to see how it worked and that's all it was to it. I have no idea how the newer ones are made. They may be basicly the same thing. I don't know.

 

[Speddmon]

did you use a low pressure check valve on the "bottom" fitting to keep the air from pushing the alcohol back into the compressor intake, or don't you think it's necessary.

Thanks for the input and I'm sorry for running this thread off course.

 

[G-Force]

Saddam,
the part number you listed in your post:
P/N 10937856 and it is on Page 227, Figure 226 TM9-2320-361-24P

Comes up as the either start kit.
Just to let you know.

 

[cranetruck]

There is no pressure (120psi) requirement for the evaporator used on the deuce. If you have the bracket, a regular 2-pint glass "Ball" jar screws right in.

 

[saddamsnightmare]

January 10th, 2010.

Thanks G Force, but the August 2006 Parts book I have for the deuce shows on Page 227 Figure 226 the alcohol evaporator kit, as I always go to the hard manuals when I have them. PN 10937856 is listed as the kits P/N. For you gentlemen worried about pressure, the drawing noted above show the feed attached to the compressor intake just inboard or downstream of the filter itself, so unless you have a stuck intacke valve, there should be no positive pressure involved with the evaporator unit. My observation is that the compressor is only going to draw in when the governor cuts the intake valves in, and from the diagram I would suspect that there is some regulation of the alcohol flow rate allowed for, either by metering the draft line into the compressor, or controlling the air flow into the evaporator unit itself. If you look on top of the air filter "elbow" that is part of the airbrake compressor, there is a plugged threaded opening about 6 o clock, on the outboard top face of the filter casting. This is where the alcohol feed line attaches.

I noticed the units on the classified on here, but due to being unemployed, I'm gonna scrounge some before I cough the amount wanted......!

Thanks for the inputs, and I am certain other members will benefit from them also,

Cheers,

Kyle F. McGrogan

 

[Speddmon]

I think people got confused as to what m16ty and I were talking about, especially when we were talking about a vessel rated for 120 PSI. We are talking about a canister plumbed into the pressurized discharge line of the air compressor.

The alcohol evaporator kits work like others had mentioned, they draw alcohol from a non pressurized bottle into the air compressor intake.

these are two totally different types of set-ups that accomplish the same goal of adding alcohol to the system

 

[m16ty]

did you use a low pressure check valve on the "bottom" fitting to keep the air from pushing the alcohol back into the compressor intake, or don't you think it's necessary.

Thanks for the input and I'm sorry for running this thread off course.

No, it was mounted quite a bit lower than the compressor. To be honest I really don't remember the details. If I were going to add one to the deuce I'd build a tank, find a place to mount it, and try it out to see how it works. While I don't remember the details, we just kind of threw it all together and it did work.

 

[1stDeuce]

Home made evap.

Here is my solution. This is obviously an intake setup evaporator. 1 nalgene bottle, some clear tubing, and some brass fittings. And a gallon of GUNK air brake fluid.
Seems to be working.
C

 

[cbvet]

!stDeuce,
Great, simple idea!
Any guess as to how much fluid it uses?
Fluid Per Mile?
Just curious, as I have NO idea.

 

[IMA944T]

Is the line coming from the bottle plumbed to the air intake on the compressor? To cold to go out and inspect my truck now. Does the fitting where the tube goes normally have anything but a open hole there? A filter or something? This would be a inexpensive design to me that would work great if it goes to the intake side of the compressor.

 

[mbarber84]

Got lucky one day and found an NOS on ebay....dont have any of the paperwork that came with it in front of me but it looks like this....

 

[1stDeuce]

Yup, it gets plumbed into the intake side of the compressor. There's normally a 1/8" pipe plug right on top of the intake, and that's where the evaporator gets plugged in. Mine hasn't got but a few hours on it, but the fluid level hasn't changed much. I suspect it might use a little more if I added the tube from the intake to the filter housing... I'm thinking a little more restriction in the big inlet should cause the evap to flow a little more air, and hence use a little more alcohol. I'm not really that worried, as it never froze last winter, and I didn't have the evap then.
C

 

[Srjeeper]

!stDeuce,
Great, simple idea!
Any guess as to how much fluid it uses?
Fluid Per Mile?
Just curious, as I have NO idea.

Roughly 1qt. every 1000 miles in cold weather...