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Yes sir it must have malfunctioned I was able to start and run the engine on Driver's side alternator going to return this one to parts store today for full refund gen 2 light never activated which out alternator hooked up and gen1 light stays on
Did you per chance keep your original isolated ground alternator, if so, either buy a rebuild kit for it, or buy a new standard alternator from O'Reily's or AutoZone and bring them over some evening, and I'll rebuild it, or put the isolated grounds in the new alternator for you. No charge, just a good way to meet a fellow MV'er. Best to reach me at <tjk2356@gmail.com> Leave off the < >. Later - AZ
Double check it closely, this is the first in a few years I have heard of someone being able to get one off the shelf that was correct.
not doubting you, just surprised. I picked up some extra used ones for spares just because I was told they were obsolete and unavailable new or rebuilt.
An isolated ground alternator will have two insulated outputs on the back. One red for B+ and one black for B-. On the stock alternator there's also a second post terminal that accepts a push on connector. Sometimes there is also a case ground bolt.
If the alternator you bought only has a ground bolt that screws into the aluminum case and is not insulated. That alternator is not isolated ground. The passenger side alternator MUST be isolated ground. The driver side does not have to be. They were the same originally for easy supply of replacement parts.
There is a link to my alternator rebuild thread in my signature. It may help you understand how the alternators are assembled.
I bought a rebuilt isolated ground 27si a couple of years back as the stator on one of mine had shorted. All I really needed was the stator but was hoping I would get some good spares with the whole alternator.
Well, long story short when I cracked it open I guess you could say it was technically "isolated ground" as there were improvised insulators on the ground output (e.g. a piece of small diameter nylon tubing instead of the "proper" insulator). Well, to my eye I could easily see how this rebuild could short ground to the case as torque was applied to the fastener. IIRC it was a Wilson Electric rebuild. It had an SAE thread on the rotor so my guess is at least that component came from a Cadillac.
Sources of parts includes ASP Wholesale and a particular seller I have seen on fleabay. As I prefer to stay within site rules I will not post to any specific auction however I will say this one seller has the most complete kit. The parts list is longer, and it is only a few pennies higher. I have NOT purchased from this seller yet FWIW. Maybe others can indicate their success if they have.
The one I bought was a Wilson
I verified at parts store when I returned it to be isolated ground the manager said he would replace my battery and refunded my money
When starting out and learning the CUCV electrical system, it can be extremely frustrating.
I know I was ready to shoot mine a few times when I first got it and was trying to get it back on the road.
Of course I didn't and the truck was worth every penny, bloodied finger, bad word, etc.
The guys on SS are amazingly and always willing to help.
I recommend you keep reading the stickies and old threads.
Whatever problem your having, someone else already had it and fixed it and posted about it.