Looking for wiring diagram/schematic

[hklvette]

Hi all,

I am in the process of purchasing an A2 from a friend who has been storing it at my house. It runs and drives well, but the lighting system is giving me fits. Only the headlights and rear service markers work. I've checked the turn signal switch's operation, and it seems to be okay per ohmmeter. The blinker box under the hood on the driver's side fender seems to be the culprit, either in the connection or the box itself. I am completely lost on the brake lights, as I have no idea where the switch for them is. The front marker lights are the same story.

Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated

 

[rchalmers3]

There was once a great thread about a wiring diagram made by a fellow SS member. Ah, here it is: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/3843-peter-bogs-cad-deuce-schematic-2.htm

(insert sarcastic remark about using search here)

Post #18 has the diagrams in a downloadable format.

I have a few diagnostic suggestions, however you may just want to pour over the diagrams and make your own plan of attack.

Rick

 

[hklvette]

I did search, both for "wiring diagram" and "wiring schematic" and came up empty, but thanks for posting that thread, even though the link on my end is broken.

This one works for me: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/3843-peter-bogs-cad-deuce-schematic.html

 

[cessnatwin]

If that is all you can find wrong, then who cares buy it! Big deal! Buy it if that is the only problem.....

 

[hklvette]

I am buying it, but I want to take it for a spin tonight and can't if the lights don't work

Well, with the help of the schematic and figuring out the light switch, I got the front markers working. The stop lights are still inop, but I think i've narrowed it down to a faulty brake line pressure switch. Next time I get a chance, I'll check it to be sure.

 

[jimm1009]

The brake light switch is on the master cylinder if it is the older hydraulic switch...very similar to an older jeep.
The 2nd design is an air switch.
Locate the plug and remove the plug from the switch and carefully short the wires together while someone watches the brake lights.
If they light up then the switch is bad.
The power must be on and the light switch on too.
jimm1009
Found this link on a recent discussion from Nov. 2009
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/34791-upgrade-brake-switch-vs-old-style-switch.html

 

[hklvette]

Update, Problems fixed:

1) Bad ground at blinker box mounted to driver's side wheel well
2) Short-to-ground front driver's side blinker in the harness as it turns up towards firewall. frame rail had rubbed through and caused trouble
3) confirmed that the brake switch (which seems to be air as it is not mounted on the MC, but rather on one end of a Tee that can't possibly be hydraulic) is bad.

Two questions:
1) Can the air switch be bought at NAPA? Anybody have a P/N?
2) is the MC a single-chamber design as it appears to be? Are they prone to failure at all?

 

[jimm1009]

You can't buy the exact brake switch at NAPA due to the military connectors
on it. Sautrn has it. Go to the link below. It comes with the fittings and switch.
Saturn Surplus

Sorry did not read quite far enough to see that you asre already upgraded to the air switch.
I think that Saturn will sell the switch only as ODIron will too (see link below).

http://www.odiron.com/store/conditions.php

Erik's has a nice picture of it here that is blown up for clarity.

http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/brliairopswm.html

There are porbably others too that sell this switch as well.

The single reservoir is just that and it is basically the same as an old jeep or 65 Ford Mustang in design.
They don't meet DOT spec now days but like everything else it will last a 100 years if you keep clean fluid in it and bleed it a little once a year or so.
An occasional bleed keeps the brakes sharp too which is always a plus in a Deuce.

 

[hklvette]

I'm not too concerned about keeping the connectors as I am about the function, so I went to NAPA and got an off-the-shelf air switch, and a bushing to go from the thread on the new switch into the original elbow. Got it hooked up, and works great. The only thing left is to get a new headlight (driver's side low-beam is toast).

As for the brakes, I'll probably bleed them this summer. Thanks for the help jimm1009

 

[jimm1009]

Can you post a picture and / or the part number.
This is new news to me and I like to retian this stuff for future use.

jimm1009

 

[bigmike]

Update, Problems fixed:

1) Bad ground at blinker box mounted to driver's side wheel well
2) Short-to-ground front driver's side blinker in the harness as it turns up towards firewall. frame rail had rubbed through and caused trouble
3) confirmed that the brake switch (which seems to be air as it is not mounted on the MC, but rather on one end of a Tee that can't possibly be hydraulic) is bad.

Two questions:
1) Can the air switch be bought at NAPA? Anybody have a P/N?
2) is the MC a single-chamber design as it appears to be? Are they prone to failure at all?

This might be a silly question so please don't take offense...Is the truck running when you check the brake lights? If not, the lights don't work until the air is built up.

 

[hklvette]

I'll be out of town for the next few days, but once I get back I'll get pictures and a P/N on the air switch.

 

[hklvette]

This might be a silly question so please don't take offense...Is the truck running when you check the brake lights? If not, the lights don't work until the air is built up.

No offense taken. What I did was build up air until the pump turned off (about 120psi), then shut it down and checked the lights with the brake pedal held. After replacing the switch, performed the same exact test and they work fine.