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Looking into getting a Mutt

ODFever

Madness Takes Its Toll...
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I apologize for the novel I wrote but feel compelled to share a few experiences with my M151A2.

I bought my M151A2 in July of 2004 and have put over 6,000 miles on it. I’ve driven it on major interstates and toll roads as well as backwoods dirt trails. I’ve used mine as a daily driver for short periods of time when my wife’s car was in the shop. It’s a great vehicle. At 60 MPH it does get a little loud though. It’s also important to wear safety sunglasses at that speed. Having a bee smack you in the corner of your left eye at 60 HURTS. :shock:

From my experience there’s absolutely no need for power steering in that vehicle. The tall narrow tires are easy to turn on pavement. The gear box may have some play in it but that's normal for a 30+ yr old vehicle.


As for the rollover concerns, I specifically bought the A2 with the ROPS (Roll Over Protection System). The ROPS adds 3 point harnesses front and rear. One down side to the ROPS is that it raises the center of gravity due to the addition of 250+lbs of roll cage. With the A2 rear suspension being a trailing arm design, the jeep is fairly stable as long as you use the “butt pucker factor” as your measure of how much of an angle you can tilt it before you roll it. I’ve been on the verge of eating dirt while driving it across the side of a deep ditch, but kept all 4 on the ground.

The prices of MUTTs have gone up in recent years. The last year of production was 1983. Demand is climbing and supply is dwindling. Same story for most of our green iron.

Moose – if you’re looking to ease your OD itch for around $4000 and need a vehicle that won’t require you to reduce the length of your legs, you might want to consider a CUCV. I use my M1009 as a daily driver and LOVE IT. :smile: That truck fits into your price range AND your garage, and most parts are available at your local auto parts warehouse or here on SS.


Hope this helps :smile:
 

L1A1

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Well I finally caught the guy at work, and he doesn't own the jeep and he's sent guys to him before without any luck..... However I might have a way to pull some strings to get a hold of the guy and get him to sell. The jeep has been there for years and the shop owner seemed to be tired of having it rot away on his property. Time will tell but I have a good feeling about all this. Wish me luck :)
I've got all my fingers on both hands crossed for you (it's making it awfully hard to type)

Matt
 

L1A1

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For the guys that have titles, did you use M151?? in the Model or Series box? Wayne
Depends on the sub type: M151, M151A1 or M151A2 as these all had different manufactures.

For my '67 M151A1 which was built by Ford, I think it was listed as a Ford P/U or "sport utility".

My first A2, which had a DoD of '71 was listed as a "Ford" as well (Ford actually lost the contract around 1970) but I don't remember the model type. For my current A2 (DoD of '72), I have it titled as a "Jeep, sport utility". The title that came with it from Nevada actually had "M151" on it but VA-DMV doesn't recognize "M151" & I'm glad that they don't.

Remember that most of the mutts surplused out came with demil orders and how so many made it out w/o being demiled is a mystery. The old addage of "never look a gift horse in the mouth" could apply here. So could "look before you leap" I suppose.

Matt
 

M715VFD405

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I'm not much of a "off roader" but I have driven the 2 M715s my old dept had through some tuff terrain and know all about the "pucker factor" adding in the water they held makes life fun when your going up steep hills like the dam around my home towns lake lol. However as long as the jeep won't tilt on the pavement at reasonable speeds I think I can hold my own. How heavy is the body tub on these things? Would it be best to use some kinda cherry picker or just a few friends to lift it off?
 

L1A1

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Here's the skinny on rollovers and M151s. Do not take a turn above 25 MPH or you will stand a very good chance of rolling it! Most roll overs were due to human error. In other words, the driver was doing something he or she shouldn't have.

ROPS are nice but make the vehicle really top heavy. My first A2 had that system on it but the previous owner removed it. Said it made the jeep feel like it was going to roll in a turn even at 5 mph! If you want a roll bar, I'd recomend installing a civilian one. Way less weight up top and noting to crack your head on when entering/exiting the vehicle. As a form of ROPS on my A1, I installed the M4 pedistal mount, it took up a lot of room in that tiny interior (even more so with the top up).

What gave the G838 the bad rap for roll overs was that with it's independent suspension, gave no clue to the driver/occupants that it was about to roll until it actually did. Earlier jeeps with their solid axles & leaf springs would "warn" the driver with accessive body lean causing him to (hopefully) slow down.

Matt
 

M715VFD405

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I don't think I would have to worry about that I don't plan for this to be a "toy" Just something to work on and when finished drive around town and parades/events. Nothing that should have it ready to tip. But it's good to know all this and not just for myself for anyone looking at getting a Mutt
 

ODFever

Madness Takes Its Toll...
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M715: The MUTT weighs roughly 2700 lbs total. Since the jeep is unibody construction, there is no tub to separate from a ladder frame. The bulk of the weight is in the power pack (engine and transmission). There is no separate transfer case and no high/low range. You only have engage/disengage on the front differential. For this reason, I pulled out the front half shafts to reduce wear and tear on the front diff and increase fuel mileage.

L1A1: I agree with you completely about the rollover issue. I've noticed that my jeep wants to lean even in hard straight stops (light turns red, idiot pulls out in front of me, etc). When the center of gravity shifts forward, it causes the rear end to get a little squirrely.

Papercu: It's been a long time since I looked at my title. I remember that somewhere on it is Jeep and it also has M151A2. Thankfully, the FL DMV employees know what a Jeep is and didn't pay attention to the M151A2. Mine was built by AM General.

With all that said, the M151A2 is great for parades, static displays, and running errands.
 

L1A1

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I don't think I would have to worry about that I don't plan for this to be a "toy" Just something to work on and when finished drive around town and parades/events. Nothing that should have it ready to tip. But it's good to know all this and not just for myself for anyone looking at getting a Mutt

I understand but remember; no one plans on getting into an accident. That's why they're called accidents. With that being said, I'm sure you'll have loads of fun with you (potential) new toy and will discover as I did just how much fun these "little" jeeps are.

With their independant suspensions and horse power rating equal to a 3 ton M37, the M151 is down right peppy on road & rides like a car. I know of one M151A1 owner who has posted numerous times "once you drive an M151, you'll throw rocks at all those solid axle jeeps." I'm sure he'd make an exception for the M715, though :wink: :).

Matt
 

sidsky

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m-151

i got one for sale original radio car with radio's, coleman hardtop,was my dads has'nt run in 5 years,motor loose good mn title average cond,3500.00 quick sale price,p.m. me if interested would sell radio's seperate.
 

L1A1

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Sidsky
I see by your "offer" that it has a good Mn title but could you shed some more light on the following,

What type? M151, M151A1 or M151A2 for examples. Has your mutt even been demilled? How's the body? Any rust issues?

Thanks,
Matt
 

rickf

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One of the main areas to look at is the underneath. The "frame" rails are actually formed sheet metal so they have a bad habit of rotting away. There are NOS large underbody repair kits available but they are drying up fast. They are around 500.00 the last time I looked. Body panels are impossible to find. There is an outfit in Fla. making them but the accuracy leaves a LOT to be desired. There is one guy in Denmark making repair panels for them and they are excellent but expensive to ship. You might want to check out the g838.org web site since it is nothing but M-151. A lot of good info there. Some of the guys from there are here also.

Rick
 

toptiger

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L1A1 summed it up well: body condition {rust, and whether or not it was cut when demilled} is the most important issue, then running or not and the title registration issue. Also his mention of the G838.org is a good one as most of the friendly experts are there and can help before you buy, and then after. Parts are available and reasonable and as long as you drive the early ones with caution you will enjoy them. The A2 version is the best of the series IMO. Again L1A1's prices are what I have seen, but Craigs list turns up some nice 'barn finds' from time to time. The G838.org has some good buys too.
A non rusted out, serviceable M416 trailer goes for $600 on up to 1300 from what I have seen {use caution about rusted out beds- no same same replacements are avail} but than again look to crags list and you can get find some cheaper. Good luck and BTW the US Navy used them and they look great in battleship gray!
 
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sidsky

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well mines a 1966 authenticity scale of 1-10 a 9 looks just like the one in standard M.V.edtition 2 some rust some dings,scale 1-10 a 7 newer 600.00 colemann top/doors been sheded its whole life...i would say the price reflects the condition...ya want one to ply with or polish...your call,and of course the radio's and antenna.
 
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