Lower Radiator hose

[kastein]

^ you know far too much!

It was an idea, but not a very good one I guess

 

[WOLFMAN1]

barrman knows his stuff. that's why i ask him about gassers. helped me out alot. hey kastein, i'd like to see some pics of your 96 xj on 33. i had one on 31s and traded it for my current deuce.

 

[kastein]

don't have any online really, it's a rust bucket and probably won't last past the end of the winter. I got the 98 to replace it when the frame/body falls apart again. Just gonna swap all the fun bits over and part out + scrap the rest.

 

[WOLFMAN1]

cool cool, out with the rusted and in with the project swap.

 

[rawfish]

the biggest thing winch owners need to keep in mind is MAKE SURE you are clear of the bumper BEFORE you stand up.
If you forget that step then your beer break will come alot sooner


Still hurts lol

My lower hose sprung a decent leak last week while running @ idle in the yard. It was swelled up fairly large from age so i can assume it had been on there for a LONG time.

I ordered the parts (new hose / radaitor cap from S&S) and checked the forum for those folks who had taken this project on before. Found that some folks didnt have much trouble while others had to disassemble the front end to get to the problem. Lots of good info posted but i still didnt have a clear plan of attack. Figure i'd look and decide within the first few minutes if this was going to be the problem i understood it to be.


The hose clamp was easy to get on the bottom, but the one on top was a pain due to the belts & fan. I dont recommend having a body builder set of arms for getting into these tight places but with some effort i got both clamps off.
A liitle penatrating oil around the top of the old hose and a long flat head screw driver and it came right off.

Lower part was easier, with the long flat head it came off also. The new hose was a perfect match without the wire that i found inside the old hose. I put the low end on first and squeezed my hand into those tight places to get the top started. This is where i had a problem...i didnt have enough room to force the hose any further on the water pump.

I knew for sure the top hose was started on the water pump, so i got back under the truck and used the handle of a hammer (wood type) to push the hose further up. Just make sure you use enough lube to grease things up.
It was a snap...tighten up the new clamps and took a cold beer break.

Took about two hours to change the hose which includes flushing out the system. My truck has a winch and the biggest thing winch owners need to keep in mind is MAKE SURE you are clear of the bumper BEFORE you stand up.
If you forget that step then your beer break will come alot sooner.

SEMPER FI ...


keith

 

[hawkeyepoole]

I just thought I'd add a picture and some info from my experience last week. I have a 1979 M35A2C Deuce and had to change the lower hose. I found listings elsewhere on this forum for two hoses. A NAPA 21047 and a Gates 20611. For my truck the Gates 20611 was the proper fit. At O'Reilly in Texas October 2011 I paid about $18 for it. I saw it online for as much as $56!!

On my truck I just removed the tensioning attachment for the alternator and the belts and pushed it down out of the way. I had a helper, and it took the two of us two hours to change it. I did have to rotate the upper clamp so I could push the alternator up enough to get the belts back on. Stainless clamps!!

Also! I had to trim about two inches from the top as the hose was way too long.

 

[Big Z]

Pulling the radiator is a relatively quick and easy way to get to the hose. Plus you can flush sediment outta the bottom of the radiator while you're at it (the stuff that isn't gonna come out by just opening the stopcocks).

You just gotta remove 2 bolts and loosen 2 more to pull the brush guard. Remove a few radiator bolts, loosen some hose clamps, and rock on.