TheOrigin
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I'm in the process of putting an LQ9 LS 6.0 and a 4l60e trans from the same truck into my 84 M1028 5/4 ton truck. I will update this thread with problems I encounter and what I did to resolve them.
I installed the engine and trans bolted together into the truck without removing the core support. It wasn't too bad to get it in but you will need to have the radiator out if you don't already you will need the room. Bolting a trans to an LS in a square body can be a bit of a pain so this is why I opted to install them still hooked together. It's a 2 person job don't try to do it solo.
To avoid issues I had. Remove the 6.0 oil cooler lines entirely from the engine. Also have the factory clamshell style mounts mounted to the LS Swap mounts you choose and everything attached to the engine. It is much easier to slide the engine and trans into place and line up the 3 frame mount bolts than to have the clamshells already mounted to the cross member. With the trans attached it is quite difficult to maneuver the motor mounts down onto the clamshells when they are bolted in place on the frame. I know some people who like to use the adjustable motor mounts for LS swaps on square bodies but I opted for non adjustable ones to prevent any issues of it ever moving around. The adjustable mounts are mostly recommend for applications where your mounting an LS engine to a transmission that came in your vehicle.
Removing the transmission dipstick will also give you some more clearance to get it in place but I left mine on and it wasn't a terrible burden. On the passenger side of the rear of the LS engine there is a bolt on the head with a long stud coming out of it. There was nothing attached to this on my motor but I did use it for the chain to put it in the truck. I ended up needing to cut the stud off that bolt head so it didn't smash a hole in my firewall. Use a normal bolt or cut the stud off ahead of time if using it, otherwise just remove it.
When the engine is out of the truck, it is best to remove the exhaust manifolds. It's very common for the bolt heads to be broken off from thousands of heat cycles. They will likely seal up fine and have no leaks but it's much easier to fix this issue when it's out of the truck and the engine will go in easier without the manifolds on it. They aren't hard to install later.
An NP241 from an 88-91 era blazer, crew cab or suburban will bolt right up to a 4l60e trans. This is what I'm currently looking for to put in my truck. Later model 241 cases are driver side drop and won't work
I installed the engine and trans bolted together into the truck without removing the core support. It wasn't too bad to get it in but you will need to have the radiator out if you don't already you will need the room. Bolting a trans to an LS in a square body can be a bit of a pain so this is why I opted to install them still hooked together. It's a 2 person job don't try to do it solo.
To avoid issues I had. Remove the 6.0 oil cooler lines entirely from the engine. Also have the factory clamshell style mounts mounted to the LS Swap mounts you choose and everything attached to the engine. It is much easier to slide the engine and trans into place and line up the 3 frame mount bolts than to have the clamshells already mounted to the cross member. With the trans attached it is quite difficult to maneuver the motor mounts down onto the clamshells when they are bolted in place on the frame. I know some people who like to use the adjustable motor mounts for LS swaps on square bodies but I opted for non adjustable ones to prevent any issues of it ever moving around. The adjustable mounts are mostly recommend for applications where your mounting an LS engine to a transmission that came in your vehicle.
Removing the transmission dipstick will also give you some more clearance to get it in place but I left mine on and it wasn't a terrible burden. On the passenger side of the rear of the LS engine there is a bolt on the head with a long stud coming out of it. There was nothing attached to this on my motor but I did use it for the chain to put it in the truck. I ended up needing to cut the stud off that bolt head so it didn't smash a hole in my firewall. Use a normal bolt or cut the stud off ahead of time if using it, otherwise just remove it.
When the engine is out of the truck, it is best to remove the exhaust manifolds. It's very common for the bolt heads to be broken off from thousands of heat cycles. They will likely seal up fine and have no leaks but it's much easier to fix this issue when it's out of the truck and the engine will go in easier without the manifolds on it. They aren't hard to install later.
An NP241 from an 88-91 era blazer, crew cab or suburban will bolt right up to a 4l60e trans. This is what I'm currently looking for to put in my truck. Later model 241 cases are driver side drop and won't work
