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M 35 mulitfuel questions

54reo

Well-known member
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Location
Chester IL
I am dire need of elp on a few issues from the good folks of this site.
I own a 1954 REO M44 gasser and any getting to know the "in's and out's" of this truck. I have recently come across an M35 cargo mulitifuel and I have a few questions as I know NOTHING about the mulitfuels or diesels.
First, the facts:
The truck appears to be an early one as the old style mirror mounts, seats, and sprage transfer case are present. Truck starts so quickly that I can't hear the starter kick over; gauges all work except for the speedo and tach; oil pressure at idle is 45-50 psi cold, 35 psi warm; air builds in under a minute and I hear no leaks; generator charging at high end of green on the gauge; hard brake pedal that does not pump up any and only goes down about an inch of travel no rust in the body, but some small dents in each panel; engine has "Proudly maintained at Tooele Army Depot" stickers on it; a date on the od green fuel filters of 02/02; Dash data plate is blank except for the vin 36040, and "CARC", drivers side frame rail behind the front tire has "36040" stamped in it; cargo bed with troop seats and side boards; good glass all around;all of the lights work; some sort of plastic soft top; truck will go into high and low ranges; no major leaks under the truck; parking brake seams to be stuck in the cable secton; seller has a clean title.
Now the questions:
1) The engine starts very quickly and with a very small amount of smoke at the first second or two. It will rev freely, but if lugged down, it will settle into a very rough and low idle that will take several minutes or a complete shut down and restart to recover from. During this rough and low idle, the accelerator pedal will not respond. What could this be?
2) The asking price on this truck is around the $2500 area. Without pics, is this in the ballpark or not?
3) Why is the data plate blank?
Any info or pointers would be VERY GREATLY appreciated! Thanks so much!













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WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Monrovia, Ca.
Sounds like a fuel pump governer issue? When it idles fine, what speed is it at? It should be at around 850 RPM.
 

acetomatoco

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Price is right... sprag x fer... heater? Hardtop? Winch? seat belts? spring ride seat? M35A2C Dropside? Rear canvas and bows? tires and spare? that VIN would indicate a truck which was made as a gasser and transformed into a M/F. Tooele was the rebuilder of M/F engines... look at the date on the engine tag. 1D motor? You may see a new LF fender and new steering gear...primered..as they were typically replaced with engine upgrade..also transmission may be overdrive now as direct 5th was original in gassers... Buy it quickly....
 

sermis

Active member
1,844
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Location
Temple, TX
The motor sounds like it is in real good shape and a minor fix. Price if it is that straight and that good is well in range. I would buy it and sell off or bob mine. Lately I have seen most good trucks in the $3,500 range and up. With troop seats, covers, etc the price goes up. I gave $2k for mine. Patch work on both front fenders, minor dents, and some rust through on the stake pockets. Motor will never rust due to oil coating. There is always the rear find where you can get the $1k trucks but you have to look.
 

devilman96

New member
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Location
Boca Raton, FL
Price is good... Fuel problem is more likely the in tank pump or a air leak, dont let it run like that or you will end up breaking a lot of stuff from the shaking. Turn the ignition switch on and go back to the tank... listen for the pump running.

I didnt hear the word turbo anywhere...
 

54reo

Well-known member
1,503
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48
Location
Chester IL
Thanks for the help everyone!
Ace; The truck does have seat belts, heater, old style canvas/spring-in-the-cusion seats, troop seats,soft top, and a spare. The truck does NOT have a winch, hardtop, rear(bed) canvas or bows, or a drop side bed (just the standard bed).
Devilman; The truck is a turbo. I will check for a running pump in the tank and let you know. BTW, it is a VERY rough idle!
A few new questions:
1) The engine tag has a date of 01/92 on it. How do I tell if it is a "C" or "D" turbo, and what is the difference?
2) Why is "CARC" on the data plate?
Sorry for the stupid questions, but I am fairly new to MV's and diesels. Thanks again so much for the help!
 

acetomatoco

New member
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It will say 1C or 1D on the engine tag...RF corner.. raise the idle up with the hand throttle a little...see how it settles out... You are not supposed to idle em at low RPM any way...always pull them up to a grand for any lengthy idling...
 

oifvet

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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(near) Xenia, Ohio
My 2cents : Any "running" deuce that runs as you describe, and for the most part, has all the parts in place, is worth $2500(ish). Heck, you can hardly buy a hammered, used pick-up truck for that price. You'll get plenty of help from SS members along the way. I think you're safe. Give it some more of the thorough checks that are listed in these forums before you make your final decision. Just remember... many have paid a lot more, for a lot less!
 

54reo

Well-known member
1,503
49
48
Location
Chester IL
Some more questions:
1) What is the difference between a "C" and a "D" turbo?
2)Which one is better?
3)What does the FDC do, and why is everyone always bypassing it?
4)The engine will idle and rev fine until loaded down (as in starting out in gear , or upshifting) at which point it begins the "choppy idle" and becomes unresponsive to the pedal.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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I'll do my best,
1. The "C" is the whistler which sounds awesome. The "D" is quieter and puts out 2 or 3 psi more.
2. Opinions vary.
3. The FDC keeps your motors power output the same for a multitude of fuels.
4. Dunno. Process of elimination. It usually ends up being the last thing you check. :)
 

54reo

Well-known member
1,503
49
48
Location
Chester IL
Will be back in the area tomorrow to check on a few things on the truck. I will post some findings then. I will also take the camera and try to get a few pics! Thanks everyone for the help!
 

houdel

Active member
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Location
Chase, MI
Re: RE: M 35 mulitfuel questions

acetomatoco said:
It will say 1C or 1D on the engine tag...
1C or 1D on the engine data tag has nothing to do with the turbo. 1C/1D refers to the engineering change level (usually has to do with improvements to internal components) of the engine, either one could have either turbo installed depending on what was on the shelf when the engine was built/rebuilt. My truck has a 1D engine with a C turbo.

The C turbo exhaust housing is tapered from top to bottom, somewhat resembling a snail shell. The D turbo exhaust housing is wider and uniform width from top to bottom. As stated, the C turbo whistles, the D turbo puts out a bit more boost. The power output is not significantly different, some folks just must have the whistle (me included), some folks can't stand it.

Not everyone bypasses the FDC, there is no need to do so unless it is leaking fuel. IMHO, bypassing a working FDC is foolish, doing so defeats the automatic fuel density compensation feature. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

A lot of folks bypass the FDC to up the fuel rate for more power, you can do the same thing a lot easier by simply cranking up the fuel delivery adjustment screw. Do NOT try this trick at home without first installing a pyrometer to measure exhaust gas temperature; too much fuel (<1/2 turn) can run the EGT high enough to overheat your turbo and risk damaging it.
 

Attachments

54reo

Well-known member
1,503
49
48
Location
Chester IL
RE: Re: RE: M 35 mulitfuel questions

OK! Thanks houdel for the pics! It is true that a picture is worth a 1000 words. I went to the truck today and took a dozen pics. I have tried all night to upload said pics to no avail due to the hotel's server.I will try tomorrow at work.
What I did discover today......
1) The in-tank pump IS working.
2) The truck HAS a "C" turbo.
3) Other than changing the filters, I don't have a clue.
4) Would the truck start so easy if the problem was an injector or injector pump?
Just trying to rule out any high dollar fixes.
 
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