M series % ton wheel nut torqe

[kaiser2help]

M series 5 ton wheel nut torqe

Does anyone have spec for the wheel nut torque on the M series 5 ton. I am mounting my drivers side front which has LH thread.Thanks.

 

[rosco]

In the "Old Days", before torque wrenches & I" impact wrenches, we did all that by hand with the "Budd Wrench" and a cheeter pipe. Then, the proper torque was that you tightened lugs till they "Popped". That is still the proper torque. When they pope, they won't come off. That is a lot of work, mind you, and it takes a six foot cheeter pipe that you often have to bounce on the end of, with all your weight. You'll know what I mean by "pope", after you have done a few.

Lee in Alaska

 

[kaiser2help]

Thanks Lee. I will give it a shot. There is no chance that I might warp the drum by over tightening? Ha, just kidding.

 

[rosco]

No way! Budds were around for many years, and not just on the MV's, but on the commercial vehicles. If they got loose it makes a terrible mess that you have to often cut off with a torch. That is a problem on the side of the road. The only thing worse then a flat on an inside dual, was to have the wheels get loose & rattle around, because it boogers the threads & breaks studs.

Lee in Alaska

 

[Pappa-G]

I had to remove a wheel off my truck and broke the bud wrench. I ended up putting a 5ton floor jack beneath the end of the 5' cheater bar on the 3/4" drive breaker bar. The last 3, I had to pull the truck forward to get them to break (bent the hell out of every thing but the floor jack) the last one had to be heated with a torch. Never had any worries about them comming off though.

 

[M1075]

I have seen various responses on SS ranging from 300-650 ft lbs. I go to 475 ft lbs with a torque stik.

 

[Westech]

I also do around 475 to 500. That's enough!

 

[bulldog_mack13]

Now thats a good avatar