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M1008 6.2L Diesel. To Turbo or to Replace?

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Phily

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Amsoil. Easy power adder. Or any synthetic. Converting the entire drivetrain over will make a little more power. It's not 50hp, but it's enough to notice. It's been proven on dynos before too, it's not snake oil.
 
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Phily

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adperrak said:
Please elaborate.
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I don't know all the ins and outs of synthetic oil. But my personal experience has been with the ISB's. Which are great examples being that they are the loudest OEM motor I believe.

I've owned 2 and seen the same results:
After acquiring the trucks I converted to synthetic oil amsoil. Complete drivetrain. I picked up alittle over 2 MPG in both trucks which was enough for me. What I didn't notice right away was the power increasing and the noise decreasing. (Nor was I expecting it) For different reasons I converted both back to convential. Thats when I realzed the engine got louder and power went down. Expecting nothing, I saw dramatic results.

The 47re loves synthetic oil because viscosity stays ideal. That I know, I don't know why the difs or transfer case. But the gain is there as well. The turbo is neat as well, I had 5 inch exhaust straight piped behind the rear wheel of both and I noticed after the truck was off, that the turbo spun longer after the truck was off.

As far as dyno results go it's what I've seen and read. Nothing of my own. 1-2HP increase is all. After complete drivetrain conversion. That being said, it must be across the board, because it feels like more. It felt like the difference between the trucks chipped and not chipped.

All of this was noticed by some close friends. Two of which were sold to the point they became Amsoil dealers.

As far as your 6.2 goes, I've never owned one.........yet. But my thinking on CUCV's is convert to synthetic. And let it breath as easy as possible. A turbo will never be in my future. A small shot of nitrous and/or propane may though. Just because of the success I've had with those drugs in VW diesels.
 
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Phily

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CUCV's may benefit more from synthetic because it aids in starting, they lack a torque converter clutch, and they spin higher RPMs.
 
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Phily

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5.13:1 is all the lower you can gear it to. If you put a Dana 70 in the rear you can gear down to 7.17:1 Yes it'll accelerate alittle faster and towing will be easier, but the lower you gear down to, the less top end you have. At 5.13 you'll never see 55MPH again.
 
adperrak

adperrak

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Phily said:
the lower you gear down to, the less top end you have. At 5.13 you'll never see 55MPH again.
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Please keep in mind that the vehicle is equipped with 38 inch tires! The increased diameter surely affects top end at given rpm. Thus a lower gear I guess wont bother me there too much. After all this is not a car to drive fast. It's a machine that should pull hard and climb steep!

Where can I get gears for my application?
 
1986Blazerk5

1986Blazerk5

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The TH-400 is a very strong trans it has been used by Ferrari, Jaguar, Jeep, and even Rolls-Royce, and Bentley Used this transmission for a while. A Cummings 4bt would not wreck this trans
 
kevin-m1008

kevin-m1008

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adperrak said:
Please keep in mind that the vehicle is equipped with 38 inch tires! The increased diameter surely affects top end at given rpm. Thus a lower gear I guess wont bother me there too much. After all this is not a car to drive fast. It's a machine that should pull hard and climb steep!
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Depending on your budget the easiest way to make your truck "pull hard and climb steep" is to bolt in a slightly built 454 with the stock gears and 38" tires it will meet your needs.

Note: In my M715 I have 456 gears and 1100R16 Xls' (38" tires) and it pulls very nicely but the 9mpg is not so nice.

Lower gears only work so well in giving you performance at some point the lower top speed will hurt the ability to drive on the road.

Then again maybe if we knew more details on your application of the truck we can give more ideas.
 
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iamspencer

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the turbo kit isnt worth the money unless your putting it on a truck that you do alot of towing with. as for the rest of the bolt on power options they will only bring you a headache.

your problem isnt lack of power its gearing.
stock its got 3.08:1 gears thats really high to begin with, engeneered for economy on the highway and not power. As your tires get bigger your final drive ratio gets higher. higher ratios equal less "power". I would recoment 4.10:1 gears if you want to be able to get up to about 70MPH, or 4.56:1 gears(this is what is found in the CUCV trucks M1009 you would top out around 60MPH. I would go with the 4.56:1.

You don't need to upgrade your axles just the gears inside the differential. the axels you have can't be broken by a 6.2

hes a cool calculator for ratios (ignor the crawl part)
http://www.4lo.com/calc/gearratio.htm

hes a good gear place
http://www.ringpinion.com/DiffSide.aspx?SearchMode=Make&MakeID=3&ModelID=298
 
that1028guy

that1028guy

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One thing I haven't seen brought up yet is the fact the 6.2 is a converted gas motor, and only has 8 head bolts per side. What this means is the higher cylinder pressures of a diesel put a strain on these bolts. Adding a turbo, which will add more cylinder pressure (same with NOS and propane) you will have a very good possibility of lifting a head off the motor. One option I have seen done but not mentioned is a 7.3 out of a ford. They are a V-8 diesel built to be a diesel, and you can find a engine trans and wiring harness fairly cheap. The best advice I can give you is to do your research before jumping into anything. Just my .02
 
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