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M1008 Build

8

87cr250r

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I guess he split our advice. I said let the head gaskets be, don't use gaskets. He left the head gaskets and used gaskets.

Another note, while the valve covers and oil pan are supposed to be RTV. The front cover and water pump are supposed to use anaerobic gasket maker.

For future reference, use anaerobic gasket maker anywhere you can over RTV. Anaerobic such as Loctite 515 is much easier to disassemble, much easier to clean up (one swipe with a razor blade is all it takes). It doesn't harden outside of the flange so it doesn't clog oil pumps. It's less permeable. It can't be used with sheet metal surfaces. It doesn't tolerate high temperatures as well as silicone. It must not be used as a gasket dressing on compressible gaskets, it lacks resiliency.
 
cucvrus

cucvrus

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Contact these guys. They would know. Again, installing an unknown injection pump could be double work. Side by side they look the same, but it may be wise to ask a professional and get the pump tested before you go thru the trouble of installing it. I can't imagine taking a truck down to the bare frame rebuilding and replacing everything and then installing questionable parts to the power train and driveline. Just my thoughts. I am allowed to think, and out loud so others here the warnings I am giving. I wish you best of Luck. And contrary to opinions of doing things on the shoestring budget. In my experience it has been it only cost a few dollars more to do it right the first time. Doing it again costs twice as much and then some. I have installed injection pumps on lots of diesels, but I installed what was told belonged on the engine and it was usually the same pump I removed or one that was provided to me by a rebuilder after I gave them my requirements, year, make, model. Good Luck and Happy Holidays.
Diesel Care and Performance – Diesel Care & Performance
 
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ezgn

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DIVE DIVE

DIVE DIVE

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582EB06D-63D9-4259-BF1C-D749DD551A47.jpeg
Not the bolts you want to drop when installing the injection pump!
I’m using the pump and injectors from the original motor. Although looks aren’t everything, they appear to be in better shape.
 
DIVE DIVE

DIVE DIVE

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Got the trans filter installed today and buttoned up. Engine oil in (twice). Dumped a quart on the ground before I realized that the plugs weren’t installed. Doh! Pump works great though! Bunch of plumbing and wiring done today.
Thought the front would set down more after installing the motor but it didn’t move much…we’ll see what happens over the next couple day as it settles out.
 

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ezgn

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DIVE DIVE said:
Got the trans filter installed today and buttoned up. Engine oil in (twice). Dumped a quart on the ground before I realized that the plugs weren’t installed. Doh! Pump works great though! Bunch of plumbing and wiring done today.
Thought the front would set down more after installing the motor but it didn’t move much…we’ll see what happens over the next couple day as it settles out.
Click to expand...
You are flying through this installation. Great job.
 
DIVE DIVE

DIVE DIVE

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Well I was able to get all of the plumbing and electrical wrapped up today. Tried rolling her over and she just doesn’t want to go. Tried several different shims and always had the same result; immediately upon engagement, the starter stops spinning and won’t turn the motor. Odd thing is that there is no excessive current draw from the starter and voltage never drops below 26 volts. Glow plugs removed, and she rolls over fine with a socket on the snout. Considering the state of the starter when I got it, it is most likely a starter issue. Nevertheless, I’m going to pull the new AGMs out of my Cummins and try those to ensure that we have a good power source. Frame to battery to buss to cab grounds are less than one ohm. After that I anticipate getting a new starter once I determine that this one is unusable.

Fuel system is primed through the filter up to the injection pump.F715E997-98E8-4B95-9D5C-DD42E6DAD066.jpegDBC100EE-F372-4DA8-B81C-BD0F70A212C4.jpegFE7F8786-5B69-4CFE-8B48-0344E77A0944.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Mullaney

Mullaney

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DIVE DIVE said:
We’ll I was able to get all of the plumbing and electrical wrapped up today. Tried rolling her over and she just doesn’t want to go. Tried several different shims and always had the same result; immediately upon engagement, the starter stops spinning and won’t turn the motor. Odd thing is that there is no excessive current draw from the starter and voltage never drops below 26 bolts. Glow plugs removed, and she rolls over fine with a socket on the snout. Considering the state of the starter when I got it, it is most likely a starter issue. Nevertheless, I’m going to pull the new AGMs out of my Cummins and try those to ensure that we have a good power source. Frame to battery to buss to cab grounds are less than one ohm. After that I anticipate getting a new starter once I determine that this one is unusable.

Fuel system is primed through the filter up to the injection pump.View attachment 886276View attachment 886277View attachment 886278
Click to expand...
.
Maybe unbolt the starter then with a pair of jumper cables - hook the positive to the big bolt and then touch the tail of the starter. It should spin like mad. BE SURE TO STAND ON IT so it doesn't jump away from you!

The bendix and be made to engage too, but this is a cheap quick test.

Yeah, I know the starter is heavy but it is an easy way to confirm what is happening...
 
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