M1008 - electric setup/glow plugs/loose cable

[MarcusOReallyus]

I also see a lot of problems with battery cables and connections! I would change all of them FIRST!

YES!!!!

 

[.Max.Power.]

I also see a lot of problems with battery cables and connections! I would change all of them FIRST!

What’s wrong with those cables?



Other question: as may battery setup is a 12V one, mustn’t my starter then be a 12 V one, too? Any way to definitely find that out?

Today the truck started up at the first time perfectly. All seems to work good, except the not working voltmeter and the fuel indicator (does not go higher than 20% although completely fuelled up).

Also had some oil and I guess coolant drop under it after having it standing for 6 days...will try to find out where it’s coming from.

 

[chevymike]

If you are converted to 12v and the starter actually turns over and started the engine, you have a 12v starter. A 24v one won't even engage at 12v.

Fuel gauges is likely a wiring (i.e. bad grounds, loose connections) or a sending unit problem.

 

[Cory1337]

Voltermeter could be a fuse or relay here's some helpful posts. You might need to pull the gauge and see if you are getting anything at the plug to verify it's not a faulty gauge.


Fuses:

CUCV Fuse Box Layout

There are some errors in the TM diagram for the CUCV fusebox. I will attempt to point them out as I find them Here is a "clean" fuse box with all the proper fuses and labels ITEM 2 - Hazard Flasher 3 - not used except for the M1010. The M1010 uses it for Ambulance Accessories 4 - no...

www.steelsoldiers.com

Relays:

CUCV Switches, Diodes, Relays

I was looking over the wiring diagrams and wanted to identify all the in-dash relays, diodes and switches. So here you go. For a better picture - Right Click on thumbnail and choose "Open Link in New Window" If anyone has suggestions for additional photos, please let me know.

www.steelsoldiers.com

Color Wiring Diagram: The 7th slide "F-4 Cab Ignition Circuits" shows the volt meter, fuse block, and Relay.

CUCV Wiring Diagram color (except M1010)

CUCV Wiring Diagrams color (except M1010) I've been working on these, hope they'll help someone. If there needs to be any correction just let me know. I corrected two with warthog's help... Corrected Charging Circuits 09/29/2011

www.steelsoldiers.com

Resistor: I honestly don't remember a resistor on the back of my gauge, but thought this might be useful also.

Voltmeter died

Happened first time about 7 years ago, changed out the relay, still nothing. A local CUCV guy sent me a used resistor that sits on the back of voltmeter. Worked until the other day. Does anyone have a working resistor kicking about that they could spare?

steelsoldiers.com

Good Luck!

 

[DeadParrot]

To my eye, the cables and battery clamps look clean but it is much easier to clean and verify that all the battery cables ARE clean and tight because that can be done while standing and looking down at the battery area as opposed to laying under the vehicle poking around at oily starter connections. And as mentioned, battery cables can develop intermittent connection issues while looking perfectly fine.

Have both batteries tested separately. Connected in parallel, one bad battery can drain both.

Your volt meter is in the proper spot but as noted, is not the original. If the original connector was kept, possible it wasn't hooked up the last time the cluster bezel was off.

The gas gauge at 20% can also be a bad gauge/resistor behind the gauge. Any 73~87 fuel gauge will work work fine even if the type of fuel labeling is wrong.

The intermittent no-start can also be starter brushes at end of life. Do you have the larger direct drive starter(looks like the old style SBC type starter) or a reduction drive starter?

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

What’s wrong with those cables?

Pretty much everything. Taped and spliced and those terminals are garbage. They make a lousy connection. In an emergency, sure, they are better than nothing, but not by much.

Once you have figured out if you are 12 or 24, and if you are going to stay with whatever you have, spend the money on some decent cables and terminals.

I get cables custom made from BestBoatWire.com, and I use military style terminals. Makes for a great setup.

 

[royalflush55]

Those terminals with the little 2 screws clamp to bare cable ends are just a bandaid fix in an emergency. Those screws can strip threads and not make good contact. There is not complete cable contact with those type clamps to start with. They are like a loose nut on any cable connection. Next time it does not start go wiggle all those connections and try again. Do that several times and see what happens. The bare cable ends provide excellent place for corrosion to form. What does the cable end look like that fastens to the starter solenoid? I hope this helps.

 

[.Max.Power.]

Do you have the larger direct drive starter (looks like the old style SBC type starter) or a reduction drive starter?

I got this one. No idea which one it is.

 

[chevymike]

I got this one. No idea which one it is.

That is the gear reduction starter.

 

[cucvrus]

I got this one. No idea which one it is.

28 MT starter. good set up. I prefer the direct drive but that starter will serve you well. Make sure the support bracket is firmly in place.

 

[.Max.Power.]

Hello again,

I again encountered the starting issue and made a video of it:

Happened yesterday (as the engine was still warm from a 50 km ride) and today after riding 5 km and waiting a bit at the technical control station.
Both times I tried 10-15 times, no response. After waiting a little (2 minutes) is directly started.

 

[cucvrus]

Could be bad batteries or a bad starter. Still hard to tell from afar.

 

[cucvmule]

.Max. Power., Get down by the starter and see if the purple wire is tight on the solenoid post. Also try and tug on the positive cable and check for being tight . Sounds like initially it has good current that is either arcing out at the solenoid connection or the copper washer in the solenoid has corrosion issues. I think that it is a connection problem. At night in the dark you can have someone start he truck while you observe the connections at starter and battery cables and look for arcing, sparks. Double check all grounds, sounds repetitious but many problems first start and get worse by a simple connection issue.

That is a very good starter, looks to have been recently replaced and may just have a connection problem. I like them for the added clearance between the engine block and the exhaust manifold. Also check for heat shield being in place to help keep the heat off of the starter.

When starting, cranking over the starter for just a few seconds at a time, try not to keep continual cranking and stress the starter by overheating. The more cranking the more the copper washer contact in the solenoid gets melted, and makes it harder to get good contact.

Another area of concern is the plunger switch on the steering column for the key switch.

Good Luck, take your time be methodical and eliminate the problem starting at the batteries and follow the current path.