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M1008 has a new home.........

sirleaksalot

New member
47
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0
Location
Show Low, AZ
Ok it is official now, here she is. I had a small dent in the pass side I was able to pull out with yea ole red toilet plunger. I did work a deal for some newer E tires and rims. the others were starting to chunk, also had cracks so I didn't even look at the DOT date. my plan will be to get some diggers for winter and mount on the old rims.
I am starting to get a list of items to deal with first, already changed the air filter and fuel filter. I think the o ring inside is bad and letting it loose primes as it is a bite hard to start after sitting a day.
I will throw it some glow sticks.
fluids change and see from there.
thanks also for all the talent on this site.
Rich
 

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ryan77

Well-known member
2,584
56
48
Location
Cary IL
Looks nice, even has a nice civy seat cover, Im heading to AZ in October to visit my parents your making me one take a souvenir m1008 home with me.
 

wallew

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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San Angelo, Tx USA Planet Earth
These trucks have a tendency to have the fuel filter block to leak air.

I replaced one that WAS leaking air after living with an unknown problem for three years. I got mine from a guy on Ebay. He has a 100% rating. I think I paid like $70 shipped to me.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fuel...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

It's the bracket, the fuel filter backing plate with sensors (only two - the other one is no longer made). AND a new fuel filter.

I replaced mine, bled the air out of the system and DANG MAN, my 1009 fires RIGHT up now. I wish I had known this three years ago.

Spend a few bucks. Took me about an hour to replace it. There are only three bolts holding the bracket to the firewall.

Disconnect battery. Disconnect sensors (all three). Remove all three bolts from the firewall and let the whole assembly hang down. INSTALL the new unit with the three bolts to the firewall. Move the fuel lines from the OLD unit to the new one. Connect the two sensors.

REMOVE the old assembly. I always keep my old parts to have 'just in case' because a BAD part is better than one that is either completely broken or worse yet, missing.

RECONNECT BATTERY.

Bleed the air out of the new system. Start your truck. It might be difficult the FIRST TIME. But after that? Should start right up.

Don't get me wrong, I'm NOT saying this is the ONLY problem you will encounter. But this might help you on your way. Plus if this does help, it stops the strain on your starter and your glow plug system. Having to use them more than you normally would will eventually cause them to fail. Ask me HOW I know this.

Let us know.

And that's a KILLER looking truck. Is it staying desert tan or going to green?

I once asked a buddy of mine why the military seems to be painting everything desert tan these days.

He said two things.

The desert tan actually has just a touch of red in it and at a distance, that red is difficult for the human eye to discern.

It's easier to go UP TO GREEN from tan than it is to go DOWN TO TAN from green.

the last one makes the most sense to me.


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EDIT: Also, a simple thing to look for is your glow plugs themselves.

Most folks just change them. I'm somewhat cheap. I took the wire off of each plug. I cleaned both ends - the glow plug end and the wire end. On the front two glow plugs on each side, I had a minor leak around the valve cover gasket and it bled over onto the front to glow plugs and their electrical plugs. Once I cleaned those, THAT ALSO helped the hard starting issues.

However, my air leak seemed to allow the fuel to drain back into the tank. I was consistently having to have the fuel REACH the fuel filter and then it started up. Finally. Once I changed my whole fuel filter assembly out, that issue stopped.
 
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BIG_RED

New member
385
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Location
Winnipeg, Manitoba
Spin on filters are MUCH better than stanadyne model 80's (that's the stock, box-style filter) for lasting without leaking. I bought a FM100 from stanadyne through Midwest Fuel Injection with a clear site bowl and 3 replacement elements for like $150 shipped to my door (in Canada none the less)($40+ was shipping). Very worthwhile investment. I went with the FM100 because they are made by stanadyne, the same company that made the original, AND because I believe that the filter cartridges for FM100 are the same ones in the newer GM diesels (93, 94.. etc with the 6.5) so if I need a filter, I can get one at any auto parts store instead of having to order online. I've read others on this site had good luck with Racor filters.


Besides what you've already got on your list, you might want to check your glowplug terminals. If the wire falls off a glowplug, the other 7 glowplugs get too much power and they all blow after a month - trust me, it's happened to me twice. If any of the spade connectors don't stay on well, just replace them with 1/4" spade terminals - they work great and are cheap.

Also, I'd replace your belts if they aren't newish. This made my truck run much more smoothly.

Last but not least - I'd check your harmonic balancer. If your's is shot, it could break your crankshaft.

Nice Truck!! Good luck.
 

sirleaksalot

New member
47
0
0
Location
Show Low, AZ
thanks for the points. I am looking into a replacement for the fuel, I did throw a new filter on just because I had no idea when it was last changed.
I also keep all of my spare parts for emergency repair (just ask my wife)..
I am leaning towards staying with tan because it will be easy to re-shoot.
 
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