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M1008 lose of speed, have replaced fuel filter, glow plugs

ssgtwright-usmc

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My last question will be, "Is their a complete rebuild kit on the market" that includes the vacuum modulator and other such parts.
If I am going to rebuild I like to get everything at one time. The gears to me are fine so I am betting now its the torque convertor, filter, vacuum mod and control valves.
Like to work woth someone who has had experience with ordering parts on line here or even knows a good parts store that has a website.
Thanks again.
 

crusty

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Many auto repair chain stores have kits to rebuild the TH-400. The basic overhaul would include friction plates, Steel plates, rubber piston seals, and several iron sealing rings used on the various shafts. The modulator would be separate due to the variations used with different engines. The torque converter should be replaced if you don't have special equipment to flush and evaluate it's condition. Cleanliness is of vital importance since the smallest bit of debris can cause the pressure regulator valve in the control body to stick and blow out the piston seals. The big box bookstores have books explaining the process. It is do-able but to be successful you must pay attention to details. Good Luck!!
 

K9Unit

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Sussex, DE
There are quite a few places out there that sell the parts individually or as a rebuild kit also sell the rebuilt transmissions. Summit, jegs, jasper. You can call TCI or B&M. The trans shop I have dealt with in the past has good prices but you have to have a business license to deal with them and even when I did I always designated certain parts and clutches. Average cost in my area for rebuilds are 495.00 and up. You can pretty much get a cheap kit for around 150.00 includes, your clutches, seals , orings ect. Note though, when it comes to this you get what you pay for. Most of all my aftermarket rebuilds I use to do in the past started 250.00 just for parts. there are alot of upgrade parts available now for the TH400, 350's ect. Do you necessairly need them all... no... You could spend as much as 1400.00 for a rebuild if you wanted to but it would be useless unless you were pushing over 1000 hp. If your still running a diesel call up B&M or TCI's tech line. They have coverters just for diesels, if your running a gasser now most stock stall speeds from the factory are between 1500-1800. If its modified then take your cruising road speed rpms at 50-55 mph and subtract 500-800 rpm from that for your stall speed as a good starting point. I'm with everyone else, if your gonna take the project on yourself, cleaniness is the number one priority... so much I use to use white gloves when I was in business assembling transmissions and engines, you can never be to clean. Clean every little knook and cranny. Make sure you flush and clean out the input shaft and the check ball on the end this is the main supply fluid line internally for all your clutches and bands.... Last but not least and I cant stress this enough, make sure you follow the instructions when you check the end play for your clutches. If its to tight you will wear them all down in a sec. and have the same result your experiencing now. If you set them to loose they will slip and will burn out in a minute. When you get everything assembled you can flip it over and blow some clean air through your valve body ports before you assemble it and make sure all your clutches are engaging. Make sure when you order your parts you order a few different thickness steel plates as this is what sets the end play to your clutches. A new updated rear sprag and a adjustable vaccum module are also nice upgrades... Sorry for the book... just take your time and remember where everything goes... A TH400 is a good unit to learn on.... Good Luck !! OHH and just about any trans shop can flush your converter out for you if you dont go with a new one.
 

Blood_of_Tyrants

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Sounds like a transmission problem. Check for correct transmission fluid level and check the line to the transmission vacuum modulator and the vacuum modulator itself. I'll bet is one of the three.
 

ssgtwright-usmc

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Replaced the vacuum modulator and hose at the transmission. Oil looked good when it leaked, smelled like new tranny oil.
Drove it a little and it seemed to shift a little better but did not fix the problem.
The vacuum valve on the engine looks to be dry rotted where the other two rubber hoses attach to it.
Now I afraid to touch it or even replace the hoses due to the dry rot. More afraid of it breaking the vacuum valve in my hand just for me to find out its a part not made anymore.
I wouldn't even know what to ask for if I did call a parts store, do I tell them its for a transmission or for a 6.2L engine when asking for the vacuum valve.
 

CCATLETT1984

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Saint Clair Shores, MI
you are talking about the "vacuum pump", just tell the parts store you need the vacuum pump from a 1084 K30 with the 6.2L

you will need to replace all the rubber hose that is attached to it (odds are that you have pin holes in the line).
 
Heeeerrre I come to save the daaaayyyy!!!!
This sounds like a job fer mighty mouse, but since he is busy, you're going to have to settle for me. First of all, your PR (pressure regulator) valve is located in the transmission pump housing, not in the control valve body. But let's not worry about that yet. Trust me - I is a perfesh'nal.
Firstly, I assume you have checked the fluid level of your properly warmed up transmission while it was running in park and on a level surface. TH400 transmissions are a little sensitive to fluid levels being too high. If it is in the good zone, You need to do this on your test drive: get on a level roadway and cruise up to about 40mph. Let her coast a bit at that speed, then mash it all the way to the floor and see if she will kick down from 3rd to second gear. If she does, then see what the engine RPM does. If it flares, that is seems to act as if it were suddenly in neutral, it is time for a rebuild. But since your fluid smalled ok, this is probably not the case.
I seriously doubt it is your vacuum modulator, as this gizmo is used to downshift, or keep it from shifting up. But to check it properly you need to see how much vaccuum you are getting to your modulator. It should be around 14 inches at idle. You can check it with a cheapo-brand vaccum guage available at most auto parts stores.
Assuming these test both are fine, I would next take and remove your governor cover, located toward passenger side rear of the trans, by unscrewing the four bolts that hold it secure. Next, pull the governor assembly out by gently pulling and letting it turn a little as you do so. Hold the governor by the helical gear with the other end down and look at the grooved ports between the polished areas on the shaft. While you are looking at these, slowly squeeze the weights in and out on the end. You should see a piston inside the shaft moving up and down in response to how the weights are moved. If you don't, the piston is stuck, and you will need to disassemble the governor to fix it possibly, or you may be able to use compressed air to clear it. If that is the problem, let us know, and I will guide you through rebuilding your governor assembly. The governor works in see-saw fashion with the vacuum modulator. The governor directs hydraulic pressure toward your valve body to make it upshift, whereas, as previously mentioned, the vacuum mod directs it for a downshift or to keep it from upshifting as the revolutions of the output shaft increase. This is why you screw the little screw in inside the modulator to make it shift a little later and firmer. You are actully adding resistance to the vacuum being applied by engine RPM against the diaphragm inside the vacuum modulator's housing. Makes sense? The governor's weights want to move outward as RPMs increase, but at the same time, they are held inward by hydraulic pressure being pumped into the shaft via the governor feed circuit in the case.
When you start out driving, weights slowly move outward as the centrifugal force helps them overcome feed pressure. When they finally do so, an upshift occurs. Afterward, the feed pressure is then decreased with engine RPM, but slowly increases with the engine RPM until it once again overcomes the weights which are now turning even faster. It's really quite a simple system. One other thing that might keep it from upshifting automatically is a stuck vacuum modualtor valve inside the transmission. You can reach this valve by pulling out your modulator and sticking a CLEAN magnet inside the hole. The valve should pop right out as soon as you stick the magnet a little way inside, and when it does come out, be prepared to catch some transmission fluid with it.
If the governor's piston moves inside the shaft with no problem, reinstall the governor back into the case, and wiggle it up-and-down and side-to-side to see how much play there is between the case's governor bore and the governor's shaft. There should be almost no play to no play at all. If there is a bit of play there, you are losing hydraulic pressure via the governor circuit. This is fairly common, and can be fixed with a special repair sleeve, or a new case.
If all this checks out ok, then it is time to drop the pan and see what your filter looks like. There are two types of filter media, but the outside case of the filter is the same, and after opening it up with some side cutters, you can see what parts may be worn, if any debris is found inside. Your pan's magnet will also tell a story. Let me know what you find, and I will be glad to diagnose the problem, as it does sound a little like a transmission thing.
One other item I would check is your engine's fan clutch. If it is very stiff, it will drain power, and cause your transmission to mismatch the gears to the load...
If after all this, you decide you want to rebuild her, I might be able to save you money over ebay by selling you a master rebuild kit, and ATSG manual for TH400 at my cost plus shipping. I would also strongly recommend a transgo shift kit as they are very high quality for the best price possible.
 
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markinnh

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Hinsdale NH
yep yep about the modulator on the tranny, there is a spec for vac at idle at the modulator....any one know what it is?...I jave seen in the manual about checking and adjusting this vac pump at the injection pump also.
 

CUCV85

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Location
central/ny
Take that plastic part off the vacuum control module that is mounted to the Injection Pump throttle shaft. I don't know why the military has this 2 line:roll: "Extension basically" This plastic part can be thrown into the trash or recycle it!
You remove it then hook up the lines right back in the same location. You'll see what I mean, that was a useless part that becomes brittle!
Yes, replace those rubber lines from the Vacuum Regulator Valve on the throttle shaft back to the vacuum pump AND the one that goes to the transmission. I know there's a metal line going down there! I replaced mine with a 4 foot piece of rubber line and it works fine. Buy like 6 feet of line (take a piece with you) REPLACE those lines!
Start the truck and crawl under truck take the line that goes on the Transmission Module and put it on you finger - GOT SUCTION? Good to Go, replace the Transmission Module MD-48 from advance auto parts like 10.00 it has a brass screw in it you an adjust in and out for shift points. Also the military had the Vacuum control module on the throttle shaft rotated all the way forward for hard shift points, mine is all the way toward the cab now, shifts smooth. If your towing you wouldn't want it all the way back move it forward to almost a center position. Take care...
 

CUCV85

Member
309
4
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Location
central/ny
yep yep about the modulator on the tranny, there is a spec for vac at idle at the modulator....any one know what it is?...I jave seen in the manual about checking and adjusting this vac pump at the injection pump also.
You get the transmission modulator 10- $12.00 MD-48 at Advance Auto Parts,
has brass screw in it, turn in or out. Replace all the vacuum lines like $5.00, bypass the metal line going to transmission - just use vacuum hose all the way down!
rotate the VCValave on the throttle shaft back toward the cab. Farther back,
faster shifts, don't make it to soft!
Oh get rid of that part on the Vacuum control valve that has the 2 vacuum rubber hoses on it.
Hook up directly to the VCV. DONE!
 
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Hoolio

Member
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8
Location
Painesville Ohio
CUCV Problem

I have a problem with my injector pump in that it starts fine , runs super until it decides to cackel loudly and accelerate wildly..I have to pull my foot off the gas pedal and let it idle , then it straightens out..Cackel goes away and runs as it should...Since I've been using 2 cycle oil in the fuel it hasn't done it but once a month now..I know someday in the near future , I'll have to pull the injector pump and have it gone through..Sound like your problem at all ????
 

CUCV85

Member
309
4
18
Location
central/ny
I have a problem with my injector pump in that it starts fine , runs super until it decides to cackel loudly and accelerate wildly..I have to pull my foot off the gas pedal and let it idle , then it straightens out..Cackel goes away and runs as it should...Since I've been using 2 cycle oil in the fuel it hasn't done it but once a month now..I know someday in the near future , I'll have to pull the injector pump and have it gone through..Sound like your problem at all ????
So - you have replaced your fuel filter lately right.
You have taken the 3 bolts out of the top of the injection pump
to look into there and check for Debris or a FD governor ETC
check the return valve that has the rubber fuel hose connected to it
loops up into the air and down into the steel line. If there's a bunch of crap in there your IP is failing and self destructing - the crap is rubber seals ETC from IP. Hope not report back.
Others will chime in - just don't beat something with a hammer,
unless it's a buddy - then it's OK, use a dead blow or rubber mallet:jumpin:
 
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