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M1008 Meltdown

lindyp38

New member
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ulster county ny
sorry to hear about ur own situation.....

i did heed the advice and did that as soon as i get my truck home......

thanks again to doghead........which im sure has saved numerous vehicles from going to toast.....
 

ralbelt

Active member
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9
38
Location
West Warwick, R.I.
Thanks for the part #,s. This electrical problem seems to bite some one almost every month. Just goes to show us that rank does not escape murphy.;-)
 

bkwudzhom

Member
322
1
18
Location
ga
Wish I was there to help ya. Been fighting the electrical grimlins in my 1008 for a while. Don't get to work on it regular but am having to replace most of the fuseable links as well. The wife picked up a lamanate machine on the cheap and she hooked me up with all of the wiring diagrams. Makes a diffrence when your use them a lot!! One dirty finger print in the wrong place can cause confusion!!

Good luck!
 

Recovry4x4

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Victory of sorts today. I installed the relay last week without issue. I also added a well hidden switch interrupting the 12 volt side as a quasi security issue. Today I tackled the issues of fusible links. I found 3 that were bad, all 3 were at the 12V block near the glow plug relay. Cut out the old, crimped in new ones and heatshrank all joints. From there I ran a few tests and reconnected batt1. Checked rhe 12V side and all looked OK. Hooked up batt 2 and tried it. Everything worked as it should.
I didn't change the starter at all. Am I working on borrowed time using the old starter? Furthermore I opened up the factory relay expecting to see the contacts welded together but they weren't. What usually fails on the factory relay? I will be stripping the diode out and installing same on the new relay.
 

Recovry4x4

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Victory of sorts today. I installed the relay last week without issue. I also added a well hidden switch interrupting the 12 volt side as a quasi security issue. Today I tackled the issues of fusible links. I found 3 that were bad, all 3 were at the 12V block near the glow plug relay. Cut out the old, crimped in new ones and heatshrank all joints. From there I ran a few tests and reconnected batt1. Checked rhe 12V side and all looked OK. Hooked up batt 2 and tried it. Everything worked as it should.
I didn't change the starter at all. Am I working on borrowed time using the old starter? Furthermore I opened up the factory relay expecting to see the contacts welded together but they weren't. What usually fails on the factory relay? I will be stripping the diode out and installing same on the new relay.
 

Warthog

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OKC, OK
... I opened up the factory relay expecting to see the contacts welded together but they weren't. What usually fails on the factory relay? I will be stripping the diode out and installing same on the new relay.
I have heard it is the spring inside the relay that weakens and allows the contacts to close. I have taken a couple apart any didn't see and burnt contact either.

The relay was originally used on as a A/C relay. Doesn't matter much if the A/C comes on when you don't need it...LOL

As far as the starter is concerned, I would run it until it dies. But in the meantime, buy one of the new gear reductions, new bolts and correct brackets and have it as a spare. Yours will dies a some point in time. Who knows when.
 
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doghead

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I think the contact spring gets hot and looses its "spring", causing the constant electrical contact. When it cools off, it works again(sometimes stuck closed too). Just my guess.


I do know for fact, not one member of SS has reported a starter run-on issue, after properly modifying their starter relay with the one I suggested. (so glad for that!)

It would be interesting to start a Poll thread where anyone that has done the DH relay mod, could post that they did it, to get a running count(poll results) of how many have done it.
 

Recovry4x4

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Thanks gents. I have a depot reman starter and new bolts on hand. Once it is installed I'll spring for a gear reduction starter. They seem cheap enought, just have to scare up a new front bracket. Now that I have the extra starter, I think I will groundhop my canned 6.2 that I got for minimum before the $150 min bid started.
 

lavarok

Well-known member
1,119
33
48
Location
Fellsmere, FL
Something to think about for anyone with a similar issue, sometimes it is not the relay but the starter solenoid that sticks. My one and only run-on problem was a solenoid. I changed the relay and went to start the truck only to find it still wanted to keep cranking! It cost me some new fusible links, but fortunately I had also installed a cut-off switch so didn't need to run for the tools.

I pulled the starter and had it repaired, problem solved and ended up doing the "doghead" mod earlier than planned.

Glad you got it fixed Kenny.
 

Stonepicker1

Well-known member
2,441
77
48
Location
Coconut Creek, Florida
Something to think about for anyone with a similar issue, sometimes it is not the relay but the starter solenoid that sticks. My one and only run-on problem was a solenoid. I changed the relay and went to start the truck only to find it still wanted to keep cranking! It cost me some new fusible links, but fortunately I had also installed a cut-off switch so didn't need to run for the tools.

I pulled the starter and had it repaired, problem solved and ended up doing the "doghead" mod earlier than planned.

Glad you got it fixed Kenny.
That happened to me also.

Kenny, if you need anything let me know.
 

DDT

Member
38
0
5
Location
Southern Cal
Thanks for doing the leg work with the fuseable link numbers, I think i'll swap my links out as well. I just put them throughthe ringer with a engine rebuild. They are working but a i did have a few sizzler moments....Taylor
 

USAWEAPON777

Member
173
1
18
Location
Orwigsburg,Pa
Was also cruising the U-Pick yard today and absconded with a pair of the factory speaker mounts (4x10) that go in the corners behind the seat. A new set of 4x10 speakers will go in. The mounts and grills cost me a very inflated price of $2.00+ money for the governors theft brigade. All in all, doing well today.
Pardon my thread jack, Did all of the civvy trucks with radios have those speaker mounts behind the seats in the corners? I put in a custom stereo and only have the front tweeters and subs in right now. Having some nice mid brackets that would drop right in would be great. I never noticed behind the seats of the junkyard trucks.
 
479
0
16
Location
Madison, WI
That reminds me!! I too have all the Doghead mod parts sitting in the truck (along with oil change supplies), but haven't installed them yet. On the plus side there are battery disconnect switches in the truck... but that's not a solution to the problem. Tomorrow looks like a great time to do it...it's supposed to be 60° and sunny! [thumbzup]
 
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Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
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Location
GA Mountains
Pardon my thread jack, Did all of the civvy trucks with radios have those speaker mounts behind the seats in the corners? I put in a custom stereo and only have the front tweeters and subs in right now. Having some nice mid brackets that would drop right in would be great. I never noticed behind the seats of the junkyard trucks.
Those with radios had the grill assys.
 

pbrstreetgang

Member
114
0
16
Location
Kentucky
Fusible links may be my problem since reading this
I had a weak/ slow starter problem like batts were drained.
Turned over too much and got clack and smoke from starter.
Load tested batts at advance - ok
Cleaned / greased the bus terminals on firewall
All i get now is click of starter relay
Brand new gplugs probably swollen as we were running tests
And my buddy left ignition on all night
Murphy's law right?
Sorry for new guy request but could someone post a pic of the fusible
Links that might be related to starting issues
I have no idea where or what to start looking for
 

harryhr

Member
88
8
8
Location
Niagara Falls, New York
I had basically the same thing happen to me last year but did not know of the relay problems. I had the relay under the dash replaced with another relay and that problem was solved. After reading your info on the "dogbone" replacement and jotting down the part number I went to NAPA and got the part. After I fix the recent problem of the fusible wire links, if need be, I will have the start relay replaced by the "dogbone" relay according to pics/diagram. Is there a NAPA part number for the 12 gage fusible wire link? Thank you for your help and info.
 
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