M1008 or M1010?

[GeneralCummins]

I've got the opportunity to pick up on either a M1008 (running) or a M1010 (not currently running but I was told "it runs, just not currently, it needs batteries and we haven't tried it"). I'm waiting for further details from the seller re: photos, mileage, etc.

I'm wondering what the pros/cons are of the M1010 vs. the M1008 are. I can see the pros of the M1010 with regard to the roominess of the box once the interior is stripped (I'm thinking of building custom tanks to level out the floor to the height of the fender wells). I also like the notion of the A/C and heat however I'm concerned about how difficult it is to keep the original A/C in working order - are replacement parts available for the original A/C and is it worth it to retain the original A/C? What are the downsides of the M1010 over the M1008? Is the original heater in the back worth retaining? What are the problem areas to look for on the M1010?

TIA!

 

[mkcoen]

Do a search for DUVAC in regards to the 1010. There's ways around it but if you're not that good at wiring it'll take some effort (probably the reason they need batteries in the one you're looking at). The A/C and heat are great in the back but I tried just about everything I could to make the A/C cool the cab area with zero luck (well I was able to keep my shoulder cool but that's about it).

Here's a link about my old one: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?43310-Just-won-a-M1010&highlight=

 

[GeneralCummins]

Do a search for DUVAC in regards to the 1010. There's ways around it but if you're not that good at wiring it'll take some effort (probably the reason they need batteries in the one you're looking at). The A/C and heat are great in the back but I tried just about everything I could to make the A/C cool the cab area with zero luck (well I was able to keep my shoulder cool but that's about it).

Thx for the input. From what I gather the need for fresh batteries is most likely due to having been sitting for quite a while although the DUVAC could certainly have something to do with that situation (current owner obtained it in its present condition and hasn't done anything with it). If I get the M1010 I intend to eliminate the DUVAC and set it up like a M1008. As for the A/C I understand that it's the A/C compressor is fairly large and the thought occurs that I could split the A/C lines and install an under the dash evaporator for the cab.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Running 2 a/c systems may prove a little more difficult. The condenser for the rear a/c is in the unit. Adds a little complexity to it. Also if you run a normal CUCV charging system, the space currently occupied by the compressor will be taken by an alt. Search for the term duvac in a tbread started by m38inmaine to see plan b.

 

[Skinny]

What do you want to do? They are equally stout rigs and very capable, just for different things. The M1008 will be better at four wheeling and towing due to less weight but you won't be as comfy camping out back. Then again if you throw money at it, a shelter would slide right in when you need it. Again, what's the goal?

 

[GeneralCummins]

What do you want to do? Again, what's the goal?

A really big box for 'stuff' cargo as well as camping, much more than can fit in a p/u bed with any sort of a shell or slide in. I was hoping to utilize the original A/C however I now see that really doesn't fit into my plans so now I'm thinking about a low profile Dometic rooftop A/C powered by a couple of Honda EU2000i gennys in parallel securely hung on brackets in the back (or in cowlings up on the upper front of the box). Ultimately I'm looking at a Cummins 12v w/ a p pump conversion and perhaps an Auragen generator on the front of the Cummins (or maybe on a PTO off a 205 t case). I see now that both have they're advantages - can't pull a 5er or gooseneck with a M1010. I don't plan on serious off-road four-wheeling.

Would the roof of a M1010 support a ~90# Dometic roof top a/c without the need of further reinforcement?

 

[K9Vic]

Off-Roading = M1008
Camping = M1010

 

[Skinny]

It sounds like you are trying to create something that doesn't exist off the shelf so it will either be almost impossible or take lots of green. A cummins swap (with a good trans, not bolted to a TH400) is a huge chunk, rooftop A/C and generators starts to take up space and becomes expensive. Sounds like you would be better off with a bread truck chassis with a 5.9 in it already and convert it to 4wd. That way you get the box and engine which IMO is easier than taking something and swapping a Cummins and buying a box for it. You also may be better with a small Class A RV and converting to 4WD. I've seen a few Dodge 3500 trucks with RV shells manufactured. The CUCV really has not enough other than great axles to start with. Again, green solves everything. Your rig doesn't sound cheap. A M1010 with a window shaker A/C with a single Honda EU2000 won't keep it at 60 degrees but is a great compromise for the money. Plus CUCKS are just cool regardless of how freaking slow they are. Definitely need to sit down and work out a budget first.

 

[GeneralCummins]

I'm already working on a Cummins conversion on a 'burb so I've looked at all transmission possibilities including the Turbo 400 (will fit the 6BT with an adapter plate). I dislike the notion of having a controller to operate a slush box so I'm inclined to put a Gear Vendors overdrive on the back of the t case in combination with a Turbo 400. Expensive? Yeah, but a built 4R100 (requires a transmission controller) from Brian's Truck Stop runs a few hundred more than a Turbo 400 (built to take all a conservatively built Cummins 6BT will be throwing at it) combined with a GV O/D - and that combination doesn't require a controller. (my rattlin' Ram 2WD work truck is currently getting a modestly built performance 47RH and THAT is running $4k+ so what's another grand or two when it comes to getting a tranny that will last 250k miles if taken care of?)

I'm willing to make the cash outlay to get what I want. Look what new trucks are costing now, and they are less reliable than these Bowtie CUCVs. Plus they are far too complicated for the weekend mechanic to work on 'em anymore. (I paid cash for my loaded Dodge CTD 4x4 dually in 2000 and considering the state of today's new trucks I will NEVER buy a new one ever again - sold it 'cause it was far too complicated, heck I'm even thinking my early 2nd gen Ram is too complicated which is why I'm considering surplus Bowtie CUCVs).

My reason for considering the M1010 as a camper is compactness, which a bread truck or FedEx truck isn't of course, but I appreciate your suggestion nonetheless.

 

[Skinny]

I think the TH400 could be built to take a 6BT's power and the GV OD would help with RPM's but at the end of the day you are stuck with a non-lockup trans which is great at burning fuel to make torque converter heat and not put power to the ground. It sounds like you are comfortable with the Chrysler transmissions (they make me cringe just because it is made by Chrysler) and can spend a little cash, why not go with it in the CUCV? Expensive...yes. Exceeds value of original purchase price of CUCV for just engine and trans...yes. Good way to spend money and return on investment...no. Would it kick butt...absolutely

I think if I was going to do the whole Cummins swap (4 or 6 BT), I would go manual. Probably NV4500 just for performance, cost, and reliability.

I agree with you, new rigs are just not worth the money and are dealership babies. Every dinkus that owns one (that includes every flat cap yoyo with a 600HP tuner chip) says they are awesome. Yeah, until the shorted radio kills the body network and locks you in your own truck or the plastic balljoints blow out because you actually want to use all 3" of wheel travel for something a truck needs to do like work. Anything short of changing washer fluid requires a scan tool and don't get me started on the fact that they take 3 hours to change a drivebelt because the radiator, mechanical fan, engine, and windshield cowling occupy the same space. No thanks...CUCK Vee pleeeze!

It sounds like the M1010 would work fine for what you describe. Just be aware you will have big sheets invested and will never see that money again. I think you would be hard pressed to get more than $8-10k for a mint M1010 with a Cummins in it but others may say otherwise. That is why I suggested starting with something already with the box or engine in it to save money. Either way, make sure you post a build because I dig your parts bin...should be a cool project!

 

[GeneralCummins]

At this point whatever I build with a diesel is going to be in my fleet permanently (like the 'burb), I certainly don't ever hope to 'recover' my 'investment'. Just like most other car builds, one is never going to get back all they put into their project with only the very rare exceptions (e.g. a VW Samba). JMO

You make a good point about the 47RH since it can be shifted into o/d and the tc locked up with switches and therefore isn't reliant on an ECM or transmission controller. I am still seriously considering that option too and have a hard to find 47RH 4WD core in storage JIC.