M1008: Please help to understand wiring - some questions (Full wiring replacement with non-original)

[sirmax123]

Hi!

I'm still trying to repair the wiring in my M1008, and I'm trying to replace every wire with non-original (I'm using from Russian car VAZ). Reasons: 1. Almost all wires were modified by previouse owner. 2. It is extremely expensive to buy original parts and it took weeks to get them from the USA.

Questions are:

1. Need to identify 2 points on the original wiring - Black and Pink with Black

(do not sure point is the correct word - I mean multiple wires connected together, please see pictures below:

Black:


Pink with Black:






It looks like at least 4WD indicator lamp is connected to the "black point" - cable comes to transfer case and back to lamp.

Is it 4wd indicator?Or what is this (transfer case is on this picure)



The second question is:

I found a disconnected wire, it comes from the fuse box (with is broken in my truck ) to the left headlight (together with turn signal and others)
Could you please identify it?





And the last question is related to the transmission wiring :

I see 1 wire comes to something (red arrow) What is this? where wire come from? Why wire is not isolated (see green oval) ????

And what is near the yellow arrow? Is it an oil presser sensor on engine? Where wire comes from?





Please pay your attention - it may be not the original wiring which was modified (and modified in the wrong way) by the previous owner.

I'm trying to understand how it must be and modify according to my new wiring

Thank you!
Max.

 

[cucvrus]

Multiple black wires bound together are grounds. The last picture look's fine. That orange wire goes from the throttle pedal switch above the pedal to the electric kick down switch on the left (drivers side) of the transmission. Just 1 wire. The clamp that hold the wire to the 10 o'clock bell bolt is normal. the pin holding the linkage to the transmission bell crank will do the job. The hair pin was the stock set up. I seen nails in place so what you have will work well. Good Luck. Wiring is my weak point and I always try and maintain and retain a completely stock wiring harness if at all possible. I have replaced a few melted fuse holders with circuit breakers and sealed in line fuses. But if it looks stock and works I bought the truck and just maintained it from that point. Some have lasted me 20 years and went on to other owners still fully functional. Is it possible the wire/plug you are holding goes to the proportioning valve on the front frame crossmember? It is slightly to the left under the fan shroud. Report back.

 

[sirmax123]

Thank you for your answer!
It is not possible to repair stock wiring at all - at least half of the wires are replaced by the previous owner, fuse box is broken and no relays installed.

Multiple black wires bound together are grounds.

Clear!

That orange wire goes from the throttle pedal switch above the pedal to the electric kick down switch on the left (drivers side) of the transmission. Just 1 wire. The clamp that hold the wire to the 10 o'clock bell bolt is normal. the pin holding the linkage to the transmission bell crank will do the job. The hair pin was the stock set up. I seen nails in place so what you have will work well. Good Luck.

Also clear

Is it possible the wire/plug you are holding goes to the proportioning valve on the front frame crossmember? It is slightly to the left under the fan shroud. Report back.

Did you mean combination valve (20 on the picture below)?
As I can understand proportioning valve should be somewhere near the rear axle ... and on old Russian cars, we usually disable proportioning valve because it never works as expected.



But I do not see how to connect the wire to the valve





Also, I found one more disconnected wire, and I have ideas about what is? It is on the right (passenger) side
It is looped now and I do not know how it should be connected:

 

[cucvrus]

On the proportioning valve you are missing a connection/pigtail. It is a round squeeze type that connects in the white plastic part of the valve top side with short wire and the male spade end gets bolted to the frame on the drivers side. You are missing that part. No loss. That cable you have looped is supposed to go from the radiator support to the frame rail and originates from the right front battery negative cable end. Hard to decipher from the picture. I think that is what I am looking at. How hard is it to receive parts from the USA?

 

[sirmax123]

Thank you!
Extremely helpful answer!!!

I found a picture of the proportioning valve:



and one more with PIGTAIL!



So now it is 100% clear how it must be connected!


THANK YOU!!!


What about the second picture - I will umount this part tomorrow because it is anyway disconnected and will try to make better pictures.

How hard is it to receive parts from the USA?

It possible but there are 3reasons to try to find a local replacement:
1. Price. I should pay $30-50 for shipping for each sending, + customs payment (minimum ~20% of invoice price)
2. Time. It took 3-4 weeks to get parts.
3. Not all sellers want to send to Ukraine so sometimes I have to use a mailbox in the USA which forward sendings to Ukraine and it also costs some money.

So I'm trying to order parts from the USA only if it is absolutely not possible to use local replacement.
And one more - If something is wrong with local parts, I always can find a replacement in minutes and get it the same day.



Could you please see my first post in the current thread, and check the second picture? What is pink with black wires? Is it +12V? Fused? unfused?
Or +12V only when key in non-zero position?

 

[cucvrus]

I looked again. It looks factory to me. Looks like that picture was taken in the cab. I have a scrap harness I can look at. Maybe this evening if the heat wave gets under control. Last night the barn was over 100*F. Let me look. Please tell what area of the truck that picture was taken.

 

[sirmax123]

I looked again. It looks factory to me. Looks like that picture was taken in the cab. I have a scrap harness I can look at. Maybe this evening if the heat wave gets under control. Last night the barn was over 100*F. Let me look. Please tell what area of the truck that picture was taken.

You are right, it is from cab.
In this picture, you can see the steering column in the right-down corner. (the dashboard is unmounted before)

 

[sirmax123]

The second part I asked about is ... 'BENZIN SOLENOID', and I have no ideas who and why installed it.
I found it disconnected both from wires and any other lines.

As I can understand it valve which closed fuel line when the key is "off"


I re-checked all manuals I have and it looks like it is not original and can be safely removed.

 

[vanaisa]

This definitely not original part. Fuel shuts off from injection pump - thick (orange?) wire to IP.

 

[cucvrus]

The second part I asked about is ... 'BENZIN SOLENOID', and I have no ideas who and why installed it.
I found it disconnected both from wires and any other lines.

As I can understand it valve which closed fuel line when the key is "off"


I re-checked all manuals I have and it looks like it is not original and can be safely removed.

View attachment 838538

Scrap. Good theft prevention devise. I would go thru the entire vehicle and remove all the hacking in the wiring and anywhere else. The stock CUCV has proven itself to me and many others as a reliable and durable vehicle. After all on a weekly basis how many CUCV's do you see on the road where you live? I see a few. most are ones I have sold or serviced at one time or another. The exposed spade connectors shows me the skill level of the fuel shut off installer. I see work like that all the time. Take Care and stay on track. Keep the pictures and questions coming. Good Luck.

 

[sirmax123]

Thank you!

Scrap.
Good theft prevention devise. I would go thru the entire vehicle and remove all the hacking in the wiring and anywhere else.

It is clear. I removed it.

After all on a weekly basis how many CUCV's do you see on the road where you live?

No CUCVs in Ukraine. I've never seen any, except one medevac based on HUMVEE chassis.

The exposed spade connectors shows me the skill level of the fuel shut off installer.

Almost all wires are in a terrible state - sometimes it is even not isolated. So I'm replacing everything

You can see the fuel pump in the picture below: one of the spade connectors is not isolated well, and the second one has no wire at all.

Could you please explain to me why do 2 wires here? I thought it should be only on.
And where they come from? Existing one is coming to the fuse box and I continue checking where it goes, and have no ideas about second one.





Tomorrow I will continue the investigation but now it is ~40C (~100F) - to hot to continue work

Thank you!

 

[cucvrus]

Could you please explain to me why do 2 wires here? I thought it should be only on.
And where they come from? Existing one is coming to the fuse box and I continue checking where it goes, and have no ideas about second one.

I have seen that before. You do not have a stock CUCV injection pump cover. That was taken from some other application. Just use the larger male spade and I think all will be well. It only requires 12 volt to that connection. I think earlier HMMWV had that second bullet connection on the injection pump cover. Not 100% sure. But I have seen it before. I will be gleaning a 100% stock wiring harness from an M1009 scrap body today. The uncut harnesses are very hard to find, I recommend you repair what you have the best you can. Good Luck.

 

[JoeJoe_91]

This is what I got, I can take better pics tomorrow. I’m currently redoing all of my wiring, to the best of my knowledge!!

 

[sirmax123]

This is what I got, I can take better pics tomorrow. I’m currently redoing all of my wiring, to the best of my knowledge!!

Could you please be so kind and show more pictures? And where the green wire comes to?

 

[Barrman]

The green wire comes from the cold advance/fast idle sensor on the rear of the passenger side cylinder head. It goes to the cold advance solenoid on the IP cover and to the fast idle solenoid on the throttle. I don't see the fast idle solenoid in your picture though.

 

[JoeJoe_91]

Sorry for all the stray wires laying around. Like Barrman said, the green wire goes to the sensor on the back of the passenger side cylinder. In the photo you’ll see it’s taped to a pink wire, that wire also is attached to the same sensor. I’ll untape it when I get home if it’s not dark, but it also has a pink/black wire spliced to the pink wire. I believe that wire is the “key on” accessory wire. I could be wrong on that though.

 

[JoeJoe_91]

I apologize, I was wrong about the pink wire going to the sensor. The green wire goes to the sensor, and the fat pink wire goes to the fuse box. There is still that pink/black wire on the sensor though, it also goes to the fuse box.

 

[sirmax123]

I apologize, I was wrong about the pink wire going to the sensor. The green wire goes to the sensor, and the fat pink wire goes to the fuse box. There is still that pink/black wire on the sensor though, it also goes to the fuse box.

Thank you!

I found where fat pink wire goes, will make a picture tomorrow (I can work on my CUCV only early in the morning,before worktime)