M1008 Positive battery cable melting

[OlBigMC]

So I've been looking for a short and I believe I found it in the positive battery cable that runs from what looks like the starter motor (could be wrong there) to battery 2 and links to battery 1. I need to replace this cable as I believe it is too skinny. I have been looking through the parts manual and I can't figure out which part I need and where I can't get said part from. I usually go with O'Reilly but they don't seem to have it on the website.

Sidenote: My batteries are good and my alternators are good but I every time I turn the vehicle on for the first time that day the voltmeter is in the yellow and it's hard to start. In fact, I can't start it now. I tried jumping it and that's when I noticed that cable smoking and melting.

 

[cucvrus]

Possible bad starter. Possible.

 

[FMJ]

Check to make sure that cable has not been damaged by the heat shield for the starter, I have trucks that have damage to that cable and shorting caused by the cable resting on the knife edge of the starter heat shield. You need to crawl under the truck and follow the cable all the way to the starter solenoid checking for bare spots/arcing

 

[OlBigMC]

looks like the starter motor

Looks like it connects to the ENG WRG Harness Block not the starter motor. My apologies.

 

[cucvrus]

I would think he would have fireworks and sparks all the time if that was the case. I do not think the batteries go into the yellow when you turn the key on. The batteries need to be load tested and the starter needs to be checked.

Sir how about a picture? That would be a huge help.

 

[doghead]

One of the bigger MV businesses sells the battery cables assembly on ebay.

Search the site for "cucv cables", or something like that.

 

[doghead]

I agree, I would take the starter to a shop for test and possible rebuild.

 

[OlBigMC]

I'm trying to upload images but it's not working. How could it be the starter? What does the starter have to do with the voltmeter being in the yellow?

 

[OlBigMC]

Here we go. Obviously things are unplugged and loose; I've been messing with it. You can see the melted cable and how small it is; also the corrosion in the first one.

 

[Keith_J]

When a rotor winding fails in a starter, it can cause much more draw and much less cranking speed. It gets hotter too. Hard to explain but it is true.

 

[cpf240]

Um, I think the OP said the lighter gauge wire goes to the starter? Directly? If so, that is not correct... That wire should go to the 12v buss over by the brake master cylinder on the firewall...

 

[OlBigMC]

copy and past mistake

Looks like it connects to the ENG WRG Harness Block not the starter motor. My apologies.

Um, I think the OP said the lighter gauge wire goes to the starter? Directly? If so, that is not correct... That wire should go to the 12v buss over by the brake master cylinder on the firewall...

I corrected that error. According to the diagram in the -20 it's the ENG WRG HARNESS BLOCK.

I'll get the starter looked at but I want to try a new battery cable as well so I'm looking for the correct part and a place to order it from.

 

[rsh4364]

From a fairly new guy to a new guy if you search 1009 battery cables all your ?s will be answered.These are not your normal 12v truck,I have learned a lot on here just by using the search method. And I have learned a lot by making mistakes.

 

[royalflush55]

View attachment 533075View attachment 533076
Here we go. Obviously things are unplugged and loose; I've been messing with it. You can see the melted cable and how small it is; also the corrosion in the first one.

One of your problems could be the battery terminal in picture #2. These are notorious for bad connections. I would only use one of these in an emergency and then put the correct cable on as soon as I could. It looks like yours has been arcing from cable to clamp area. It complicates the problem that there are two cables going into this type clamp. It is hard to get a good connection to both. I would rather see ring terminals put on each cable and fastened to the bolt on the other side of the battery terminal for a temporary fix. Make sure any battery terminal does not contact the battery hold down plate. I have seen these touch and cause problems.

 

[tbearatkin]

My volt meter ALWAYS drop into the yellow when I turn my key on. The Glow Plugs are being powered. So dropping into the yellow does not mean a problem. Melted cables does. After I start it up and the GP drop off line the meter moves back into the green area.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I'll get the starter looked at but I want to try a new battery cable as well so I'm looking for the correct part and a place to order it from.

Why not get some custom made and upgrade the quality?

 

[Hasdrubal]

My main battery cable was in pretty poor shape, badly corroded clamp bolt threads and had some previous arcing/melting issues. Its the one that goes from front battery positive to rear battery negative, then runs along back of firewall and ends in a blue fusible link at the 12 V junction block. Found a shiny new OEM cable for $36 without much searching. Nice to be able to properly tighten the clamps now.

 

[OlBigMC]

Why not get some custom made and upgrade the quality?

Love that idea. What kind of establishment might one acquire such a thing?

My main battery cable was in pretty poor shape, badly corroded clamp bolt threads and had some previous arcing/melting issues. Its the one that goes from front battery positive to rear battery negative, then runs along back of firewall and ends in a blue fusible link at the 12 V junction block. Found a shiny new OEM cable for $36 without much searching. Nice to be able to properly tighten the clamps now.

The part you are describing is the part I need to replace but I'm having trouble finding one.

 

[Hasdrubal]

Your google-fu is weak. PM sent.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Why not get some custom made and upgrade the quality?

Love that idea. What kind of establishment might one acquire such a thing?

Here's one of many: http://www.bestboatwire.com/


I plan to order something from them today, in fact. I'm going to finally do the resistor bypass, and run a dedicated lead instead of just attaching to the 12v junction on the firewall.


Everything in the world is available. Just search!