M1008 Project!! Any advice?

[BoLoRecovery]

Hi Guys, im new here so please be gentle. lol. I have searched this site for a while and found lots of helpful info. But i need some advice on where to start on this project, i just bought a 1984 M1008 with 42k showing on dash. The truck has been sitting awhile and the previous owner is not reachable, after taking a good look the starter & glow plug relay are missing. The wires are hanging in area where the GPR is normaly mounted and looks as if some wires have been removed from main 24v block. The batteries and some of the terminal leads are missing also. Ive seen no sign of an electric fuel pump conversion but found the main fuel line unscrewd from the mechanical pump. I already have a 12v starter, a new GPR and new fuel pump. Id like to do the 12v conversion since i already have the 12v starter an gonna be dealing with all the wiring. I want to know the easiest and cheapest way to check the engine and transmission condition. Im somewhat mechanical but dont know alot about these trucks or diesels. Any insight on where to start on just getting truck cranked to test condition. Ive ordered tech manuals to have diagrams.

Is there anyway to get tempary 12v power to glow plugs and starter just to see if theres any major damage to engine before investing alotta money and time?

Thanks in advance for any an all help!!

 

[WILDBOY6X6]

HI new guy How long has it sat for,if more than a yr remove the injectors then squirt some light oil (3 seconds ea cyl) before trying to turn it,use a socket on the crank bolt and try to turn it I would stop if the eng binds and will not turn.


This will tell you if there is any damage inside,if it feels ok then put injectors in and see how it feels some damage will not show up till eng has some compression, turn it over with starter next, I would pull the plugs and see if damaged too. This will tell you if worth going into it more.The GPR/PLUGS will work on 12v just take longer to heat up, the trany it is best to drop the pan and see what's in it and how the fluid looks . I would say that due to all the missing parts it may have a bad eng that he was trying to fix,the good thing is this is not a hard to find eng,or if your state does not smog light trucks just do a gas eng swap. I hope this helps a bit opcorn:I would also look into getting a set of tm's for it .

 

[trukhead]

Ok here goes what I would do. Find the manuals from this site for the M1008 and find the wiring diagrams and down load the manuals with the diagrams in them and print the applicable manuals out, read in on the $hi^&!, Read it in bed, read it wherever until it makes sense and you know it well. Remember the lines take the current to the load and the other side of the load is the ground.

The front battery grounds to chassis, so use that position for the battery. The driver side alternator grounds to chassis or engine block as well so use that one only if you are going to go to 12 volt conversion. a 7os Cadillac alternator is a perfect chassis ground variant of the isolated ground CUCV alternator.
Continue to read the diagram until You know what you are looking at. Get a good VOM (Volt Ohm Meter) and learn how to use that as well.

For the glow plugs, a ford style starting solenoid will work to activate the glowplugs with the existing wires. source the 12 volt battery post on the front 12 volt battery. You can active the solenoid and glow plugs with a push button switch (momentary). There is a conversion thread on here somewhere, do a search. Get TM-2320-283-34 page 952

Again if you are going to do 12 volts, for the starter you can operate it with the cable going to the battery and the solenoid wire that is there with a caveat. That being the wire comes from a relay under the dash, Refer to the (Doghead Relay Conversion), also refer to page 946 (from above mentioned TM, wiring diagram) of manual. I'm thinkiing one should be able to splice the 3PPL-6 wire with the PPL/WHT 930E Wire to run your 12 volt starter solenoid wire. The 3 RED 2 wire is a 24 volt source wire, Cut it or carefully remove it from the connector to make it go away.
If you go to a 12 volt starter, you will not need this relay because you will be using 12 volts with the spliced wires. Verify with a VOM. If you maintain the 24 volt system you should do the Doghead relay conversion.

I would install a new lift pump and install all the rubber connections between the pump, filter base and finally to the injection pump. I would source fresh clean fuel from a good fuel can from a hose directly into the lift pump to get the engine started. You can inspect and repair the rest of the lines later.

If you are doing a 12 volt conversion I would recomend you go beyond the Roscoman conversion and just yank all the extra wire. Do it only after you are sure of what you are doing. I will be doing that on a couple of resurrected parts build up trucks with refitted power plants. Perhaps I will post in a timely fashion if you have not already figured it out and done the deed yourself. You can save all the extra parts for the restorations that are taking place.

I have some beautiful running completely original trucks that I will not be chopping up and listing for sale. These extra parts prove invaluable to keep the originals running but it makes no sense when one installs a 6.0 liter LS with an electric overdrive or a 4bt.

I prefer stripped, soldered and heat shrunk joints as they are permanent and sure compared to crimp joints and they seem to last longer.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Welcome! You've gotten a lot of good advice, I'll add some that will be worth every penny you pay for it!


First off, read read read. Read the Wiki (top of the CUCV forum) and the Helpful Threads sticky.

the starter & glow plug relay are missing.

These are both cheap. I'd do the doghead mod (different relay than stock - more reliable) and replace the GP relay.

The wires are hanging in area where the GPR is normaly mounted and looks as if some wires have been removed from main 24v block.

Some pictures would help us help you. It might be that somebody started to do the resister bypass.

Id like to do the 12v conversion since i already have the 12v starter an gonna be dealing with all the wiring.

Which 12v conversion? There are many approaches to this. I strongly recommend you look up the Roscommon conversion. Just search on this site for it. This is standardized enough that folks here can help you with troubleshooting.

Ive ordered tech manuals to have diagrams.

All of the Army tech manuals, complete with diagrams, are free to download right here on Steel Soldiers, in PDF format. No need to order anything. Better yet, the errors in the manuals (they always have errors) have been caught by somebody at some time, and are documented here on the site.

Is there anyway to get tempary 12v power to glow plugs and starter just to see if theres any major damage to engine before investing alotta money and time?

Jumper cables?

The GPR/PLUGS will work on 12v just take longer to heat up,

Just to be clear, the GPs have ALWAYS run on 12v, even in the stock military 24v system. There is a resister on the firewall that drops the 24v to 12v, which is then fed to the GP relay and to the GPs.

Do NOT try to feed 12v into this resister and then to your GP relay. You won't get the necessary 12v to your GPs and that sucker is not going to start!

 

[cpf240]

All of the above advice, plus post pictures so we can see what you are dealing with in terms of the wiring, etc.

 

[BoLoRecovery]

Thanks for the advice so far guys!!! i started off going to mount my starter and found why there wasnt one on it. Looks like previous owner was alil on the dingy side, both starter bolts are broken off i managed to get the inside bolt out. But the other is in VERY BAD SHAPE, looks like he has drilled and drilled and then drilled more. He has drilled with small bits and has ended up drilling beside the remaining piece of bolt into the block. Its long past the point of easy outs! I know someone has run into this before, So whats the easiest way to fix this mess someone else has made?


The upside to this is it gives me some hope that the motor and trans are good. I hope the previous owner made the mess with starter bolts and then lost interest i fixing it

 

[Skinny]

Hey dude

I'm about an hour away in Wilmington. Unfortunately I'm heading out the door first thing tomorrow morning for a weekend wedding, then a trade show in Baltimore till next weekend. If you need assistance with anything, give me a shout. I'll PM my cell number if you want it. I've started from scratch a few years back on my M1031 so there isn't much you can't throw at me that I couldn't help you with.

Not sure on your starter issues. Post up a pic so we can see what you are working with. I'm thinking that you either will have to drill out the hold oversized and install a thread insert or if it is really ugly, have someone weld (which is cast, not any easy process for a novice) and drill a new hole in the block. Either way, you certainly want to get it squared away so the starter doesn't rip itself off the block causing more damage and leaving you stranded. Everything is simple nuts and bolts which time/money can fix

Cheers

 

[trukhead]

If you are good with and acetylene cutting torch and since you have an off-centered hole already, you could blow it out with the cutting torch. Clean the orfices of the torch tip so you have good sharp points on the inner blue points of the torch. Set the cutting torch for sharp short blue points, you have a slight oxidizing flame. You heat the broken off stud at the thickest part of the offset diameter, get it red and hit the oxygen. DO NOT STOP THE OXYGEN! keep the oxygen blowing the steel of the broken off stud and stay away from the cast iron of the engine block. DO NOT DAWDLE, SPEED IS OF THE ESSENCE HERE! You are taking advantage of the dissimilar rate of heating up of the different metals. the steel heats faster so you can get the oxygen to react with the proper temperature of the steel to react and go away. Remember the cast iron however is not far behind so work fast.
Should take about 10 seconds and the remaining threads in the cast iron should be fine. Chase the threads with the proper metric tap and see how much threads that remain. Perhaps you can use a swtud of the proper thread and length or drill out the hole and use a thread insert.

Or you can get little drills and go awound the sbroken stud and drill little holes in the thickest parts and then chip out the stud in pieces.

 

[cucvrus]

That is very good advise. The torching always worked for me. I have had to use helicoil on a few. Remember that is a M10 1.5 metric bolt hole that holds the starter nose to the block. I have seen many with 3/8" starter bolts jammed up in there. And they do get tight but not tight enough. Also remember to install the starter support bracket. That holds the front none geared end onto the block. That is also a metric M8 bolt that is very important.

 

[BoLoRecovery]

Thanks Guys, i have used the torch method in the past on old tractors. But i hadnt thought of it on this, its been years since working on em. I had also wondered what the correct bolt size is. I have to say this is a heck of a site, you guys know your s@*t and im glad you're here. Thanks again..

 

[Skinny]

How did you make out with your broken starter issue?

 

[BoLoRecovery]

Previous owner had already tried rethreading i guess, so i used helicoil an it seems tobe holding. But honestly i havent put much strain on it yet. Ive ran into more issues, i think my Injection pumps bad cuz im not getting fuel at injectors.

 

[Skinny]

Check to see if solenoid in IP clicks with power. Check for fuel flow in and out of pump.

Holler if you need a hand

 

[Warthog]

He started a new thread for his IP issues.

 

[BoLoRecovery]

Sorry, i didnt know if it would get any attention here.

Skinny, thanks for the info. I hope the solenoid is the issue and not the pump, ill find out tomorrow.

 

[Skinny]

Honestly, I would just plan on a new IP anyway. These things are 30 years old, you will be spending lots of time and money up front on fuel and electrical repairs. Once you refurbish the entire fuel system, you'll know it's good for another 100k miles easy. Welcome to MV ownership

 

[Warthog]

Discuss the IP issue here or in the other thread, not both. It wastes people's time as we have no idea what is being discussed.

You may want to keep all your discussions here so everyone will know what the status is and not duplicate their help.

 

[BoLoRecovery]

Skinny, ive noticed several items on this mv that need a rebuild. lol. at this point im jus tring to get it running to find out what kinda shape motor & tranny is in before getting to deep. this isnt my first cucv, i was spoiled by my first m1008 it was spotless with 32k miles. i got it years back before they went through the roof pricewise. it was stolen outta my driveway in middle of day & i found it 3 days later in a scrap yard flat as a pancake. no charges ever filed on guy that did it. Anyway, i finally found another and will somewhat enjoy getting it back on the road. lol

 

[Skinny]

That's a bummer!

I think either way, if you bought the truck right then you won't make any bad investments money wise. Sure it will take time but that's half the fun. If you put a new IP in it, rebuilt the alternators, and repaired the usual stuff all to find out that the engine or trans is junk you are still doing good. First, a used 6.2 or reman'd TH400 is dirt cheap to replace. Second, You can always part it out. Just don't put yourself in a corner where you will lose money. The Cuck's are really only worth as much as their parts plus alittle extra if in decent shape.

 

[BoLoRecovery]

ok guys, y'all were right. the shutoff solenoid seems tobe my problem, i removed & tested it. after cleaning it i got alil movement, but its gotta be replaced. does anyone know the part number for it and does any of the usual parts store keep it in stock? Thanks again for the help