M1008 rear axle from long term storage

[trapshooter]

I just bought a replacement axle for my M1008. It was rebuilt in 1993 under contract by WesTrans for the US. Its been in storage since. The inside is coated with a cosmoline type substance (I think). I can't find any TM's or operating procedures on putting the axle into service. I plan on disassembling the axle, but what product do I use to clean up this stuff? Without doing damage to bearings or seals? If there is a thread on the subject, just point me to it. I don't want to have people re-hash old stuff.

 

[trapshooter]

OK, so what I'll do is disassemble the diff carrier and pinion bearing cage, and all associated parts, wipe off all the heavy goo, then spray it all down with brake parts cleaner. Then I'll dip the parts (bearings) in gear oil. Then re-assemble, and torque to spec. Then I'll cover everything in gear oil before sealing it up. I guess I'll run it for a few short trips, then drain the gear oil, check the magnet for any debris, and install new oil. If anyone disagrees on the brake parts cleaner, or has a substitute, please let me know.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Ok here is my 1/50th of a dollar.

I would use the brake cleaner on the hard parts, or gears, and large chunks of steel. It will remove the cosmoline, if thats what it is you are probably in good shape because that is what they used to coat small arms and such in before long term shipping and such and that stuff works. Just look as you disassemble at the seals. They be stuck from not spinning or dry rot and tear. So just be careful and watch what you are doing.

Also a pic of the truck would be great lol.
Where are you located?

 

[trapshooter]

 

[trapshooter]

Puddle of goo on bottom of case. Actually, the puddle is on the top of the case because it was stored upside down. No fluid was able to come in and stay through the vent tube. Magnet is on opposite side of the grease.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

It does look like packing grease (cosmoline). The red paint is a new one on me.

 

[Chaski]

The red paint is most likely GE Glyptal paint. It was sometimes used on the inside of castings. I'd pull out the TM 9-2320-289-34 and read section 6-15.

Personally I would remove the entire pinion assembly and just wipe it down with solvent. The pinion seal is a bit of a pain to change because the bearing preload is set with a crush sleeve.

I'd pull the axles and hub assemblies and clean everything out with mineral spirits (to not destroy the glyptal paint). I would not disturb the carrier assembly, just clean it in a case.

You can get a carboy brush from a beer brewing supply place that will work well in the housing. If you pull the pinion assembly out I have found it easiest to remove the six bolts, then secure the axles from turning (parking brake, wheels on the ground, breaker bar...) next turn the pinion clockwise and it will eject from the case. Be mindful of the shims and the clock position of the bearing assembly. The casting must go back in the same way it came out becaus we there is an oil port for the pinion bearings. You will probably want to buy new hub seals , they are easy to swap.

 

[trapshooter]

I already blasted and powder coated an extra set of low mileage hubs in matte black. New bearings, races and seals. I'll pull the pinion assembly, but not mess with the new bearings or the crush spacer. I'll disassemble the diff carrier because its been in storage for 23 years, and I'd like to look at the spider gears for any surface rust. I've seen the red paint on the inside in an article in four wheeler mag. awhile ago. I wasn't sure if the storage grease would dissolve in gear oil.

 

[Chaski]

I would not pull out the carrier, if you do you should probably re-check pattern and backlash. There are no spider gears. It has a Detroit locker. There isn't much to clean up. If you do pull the case and split it apart you should follow the Detroit instructions and install the running thread with nuts and washers to keep it from springing apart.

Also if you do decide to split the carrier you should install new ring bolts. I think they are one time use.

 

[Scrounger]

Does the differential, pinion and axles turn freely? If so this is what I would do. Find someone with a stream cleaner and clean the differential area only, spray liberal amount of Brake Klein to displace any water, spray light coat of oil to protect till installation. Install the thing, fill it with standard gear oil and drive it. After a couple hundred miles, install a can of Sea Foam, drive it enough to get the temperature up then drain and refill the oil.

 

[Skinny]

Yeah...I vote for giving it a quick wipe and run it. Put some gear lube in it and drive it a few miles. Drain it, fill it, send it packin'

 

[KansasBobcat]

Does the differential, pinion and axles turn freely? If so this is what I would do. Find someone with a stream cleaner and clean the differential area only, spray liberal amount of Brake Klein to displace any water, spray light coat of oil to protect till installation. Install the thing, fill it will standard gear oil and drive it. After a couple hundred miles, install a can of Sea Foam, drive it enough to get the temperature up then drain and refill the oil.

Agree. Just remember how it might have been done 30 years ago. I doubt that total disassembly was part of the plan. I was there but not in that area of vehicle repair.