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M1008 Stainless Exhaust

Ender

New member
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New York
Just bought all new aluminized steel exhaust parts for my M1008 from Walker. I'm considering bending up a new set out of stainless instead. If any of y'all think this is a good idea and are interested in a stainless set as well let me know, or do you think it's a waste of time, and I should just throw in the steel and have it last another 33 years? If I wind up making a stainless set I could do a couple at the same time if anyone else is interested.
 

Matt5

Banned
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3
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Location
NY
Where in NY XD

How do you plan to bend the stainless... it is going to be a F to do... also, I would go oversized if you make your own exhaust, one of the things that hurts these trucks is the restrictive exhaust...

If you want to take the time I would 100% do stainless... the steel is never going to last 33 years.... the clean exhaust has fallen off one of my trucks after just under 2 years...

I've been looking around for a used pipe bender to do stainless for all the trucks I have here... (read 5 k30s and 1 k5) if it is any kinda of quality it will last forever, we had some borla mufflers, I aint even kidding those things would get waxed because the pipes would rot off left and right yet those mufflers out lasted entire trucks (rot wise). Do it once and never do it again.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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I currently have 2 CUCVs and both have the factory exhaust system. Is there any way to calculate the cost difference between steel and stainless. I agree with oversizing.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
DSCF5579.jpgOne thing I did notice on my rebuild project was back 10 - 11 years ago I had the exhaust custom made in aluminized galvanized steel and the 2 1/2" front pipes are necked down to 2" - 2 1/4" because that is the size of the exhaust manifold outlets. Plumbing rule applies. I will still only get 2" - 2 1/4" of exhaust flow out of the pipes. Because of the supply flow. I have 3" behind the muffler and over the axle with 6" tail pipe tips. Pretty mush still has 2" - 2 1/4" exiting the tail pipe on each side. On another note it would be best to get the stainless steel pipes mandrel bent. Or you will restrict to the smallest point in the length of the pipe. You can only get 2 1/4" of exhaust out of 2 1/4" manifolds no matter how big the pipes are out back. The 6" tail pipes were not my gig. It was my Sons and it did sound really good. Many people never knew it was a diesel. DSCF4186.jpgNice pipes man. No worse then some of the stuff I see done to other poor CUCV's. And these are a cut and weld repair. Reversible modifications. The only way I go.
 

Matt5

Banned
214
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0
Location
NY
Banks used to make the banks stinger kit for the 6.2 diesel... all it was was an intake and exhaust... NO manifolds... it was 3 inch exhaust with a Y collector...

129_52095z+chevrolet_blazer+specs.jpg

You can see the power numbers, this is not from banks either... somehow they got more power out of it... and i dont think it was the intake... ive flipped my air cleaner before... dident notice a difference except in noise... either way I'd still go larger... can always replace the manifolds later if wanted and larger pipe aint gona hurt...
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
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Location
Schertz TX
The manifold exit being 2-1/4" does not necessarily restrict the exhaust. Yes, it adds to resistance but overall length, mufflers and quality of bends is where the bulk of resistance is made.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
816
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Location
Virginia
The manifold exit being 2-1/4" does not necessarily restrict the exhaust. Yes, it adds to resistance but overall length, mufflers and quality of bends is where the bulk of resistance is made.
Yep. Basic fluid mechanics. Every inch of pipe adds friction to the flow. Water, hydraulic fluid, transmission fluid, engine oil, or diesel exhaust. More pipe (or tubing) equals more restriction. If you open it up you reduce the flow velocity and thus reduce the friction.
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,323
113
Location
Schertz TX
The down tubes on my 1031 are ugly. Both corrosion and that accordion folding on the inside radii. Now you have me wanting to use my tube roller..probably not stainless, Galvalume is fine.

Thin wall tube can be rolled easily if first filled with a low melting alloy called Woods Metal. I have some but doubt I have enough..used it to bend 3/4" chrome moly tube with my roller. I think I have 2-1/2" rolls, I can always get 2-1/4" for my machine.
 

ssdvc

Well-known member
971
639
93
Location
CT
Depending on cost I would be interested in a system for my 09. 3" with a crossover should work and scavenge very well. A little ram air system for the intake and maybe it will breath a little bit more power into that ol' 6.2 !
 
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