• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M1008 Timing chain replacement

Finnegan1008

Active member
145
166
43
Location
Connecticut
I will soon be changing the water pump on my m1008. I figure when I have front of the motor apart I should do the timing chain. Would you all recommend this?

If so what TM outlines the procedure? I can’t seem to find it through my own research or searching the forum.

Is there anything else I should check or replace while I’m in there?
 

adf5565

Well-known member
375
688
93
Location
Tioga, PA
Sections 3-10/11 and 3-21/22 of TM 9-2320-289-34 will have what you need, and yes the front of the oil pan does bolt to the crankcase cover.

You can replace the water pump without removing the crank case cover. Section 3-48
 

nyoffroad

Well-known member
944
690
93
Location
Rochester NY
The water pump is minor surgery. The timing chain is major surgery. Unless you have oil leaks from the front of the pan or balancer front seal. I suggest leaving the timing cover in place.
Yeah , unless the engine is real high milage there's no real need to replace the chain and if thats the case then it needs a complete rebuild.
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,273
1,794
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
I didn’t mention a small ledge you do have to mess with because the TM was linked already. You will not be removing the water pump from the engine. You will be removing the water pump backing plate that happens to have the water pump attached. Then you have to swap the backing plate over to the new water pump. Then, install the backing plate back on the engine.

The TM says to use a gasket between the water pump and backing plate. Then, the TM says to use anerobic sealer between the plate and the timing cover. I ordered the special sealer for my first water pump job, had a slight leak when I did a pressure test with a dry system, took it all apart again and still had a very small leak. The 3rd time I used Right stuff between the pump and backing plate and between the plate and the timing cover. Sealed system!

That is how I have done every water pump job since and no leaks on them either. Do as you wish, just passing on my ham handed issues.
 

Finnegan1008

Active member
145
166
43
Location
Connecticut
I didn’t mention a small ledge you do have to mess with because the TM was linked already. You will not be removing the water pump from the engine. You will be removing the water pump backing plate that happens to have the water pump attached. Then you have to swap the backing plate over to the new water pump. Then, install the backing plate back on the engine.

The TM says to use a gasket between the water pump and backing plate. Then, the TM says to use anerobic sealer between the plate and the timing cover. I ordered the special sealer for my first water pump job, had a slight leak when I did a pressure test with a dry system, took it all apart again and still had a very small leak. The 3rd time I used Right stuff between the pump and backing plate and between the plate and the timing cover. Sealed system!

That is how I have done every water pump job since and no leaks on them either. Do as you wish, just passing on my ham handed issues.

I appreciate the advice, seems like Right stuff is the only way to go with pretty much anything you don't want to leak on these vehicles
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks