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M1008 Upper Oil Line Replacement - Video Link

cucvrus

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I did a thing! Probably old hat to most but it was new to me. So here it is in case anyone finds it useful.
Cheers!
Do as you will but that is a poor example of replacing the oil cooler lines. The clamp on the fan shroud that holds the cross over tubes is missing. 1625391914807.pngCommon issue and they will crack from vibration. Also the bracket on the rear manifold studs is missing and thus the oil cooler lines not staying in place where designed to stay. 1625392300808.pngI changed an engine in the past because the oil cooler lines wore thru against the brake reinforcement on the firewall. It may sound silly. But jack it up and remove the left inner fender apron to get great access to that area. The inner fender apron needs some TLC anyway. Maybe even a replacement. Good Luck. I enjoyed watching the oil drain. I would recommend doing it right the first time and drive on. What was with the trans cooler completely bypassed. Not the way it is done. Have a Great Day. No Hacking. Happy 4th of July.
 

viking76

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@cucvrus Thanks for letting me know. I appreciate the feedback and happy-4th! :)
It would seem that brackets 24 and 17 are both missing. Also, the "T" junction (23) and the Oil Sampling assembly? is non-existent.
Yes, The trans cooler bypass of the radiator is indeed strange and is on my list of things to fix. I'm just not sure if I should keep the auxillary cooler in the loop or delete it entirely.
 

cucvrus

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The double holder to fan shroud bracket can be fabricated fairly easy. I never had to fabricate the rear oil cooler line holder But I think if one was available to look at it could be made fairly easy. you are going to want them lines attached to the engine so they vibrate with the engine and not against it. I mean when the engine moves the lines should move with it. But if they are attached to the body they will be working against the engine vibrations. Doe that make sense. I used to have a couple dozen of the cooler line brackets for the shroud but that was a piece always missing and I used them up. The exhaust bracket I may have. Let me look. Happy 4th to you. Auxiliary transmission cooler is OK but use the radiator as that will warn you when the transmission is hot. The trans fluid is cooled thru the radiator and if it were to get hot and overheat it would signal a temperature light on the stock system. This way it just burns up and the driver knows nothing. And use barbed connections that will fit on the flare nuts. It make the whole job better and it looks like it is supposed to be there. Good Luck. Let me look. I will post a few pictures if I find something.
 

viking76

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@cucvrus That totally makes sense about the vibrations and good call on using the radiator ports for the transmission. Thanks for sharing your wisdom. It is much appreciated!

Looking at the Aux Trans cooler, it is in really good shape. I was thinking of keeping it but routing through the radiator first.
The way I would do that is to go from the transmission into the lower radiator port, out the upper port and into the aux cooler, then back to the transmission.

Trans -> Lower Port
Upper Port -> Aux Port
Aux Port -> Trans
Does that seem legit or bad idea to you?

If I go that route, I will definitely change the fittings and the lines to the aux accordingly. Although I would not mind relocating/replacing the trans hard lines currently in place as they have kept me from pulling the splash guard to check the starter pinion gear spacing... another thing on my to-do-list.

Thanks again! :)
 

cucvrus

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cucvrus

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I was out looking for some other parts and came across a stash of oil cooler lines and related parts. DSCF7799.JPG I also took a few pictures of the oil cooler lines on Little Red M1009. These are how the stock lines were run and secured. DSCF7796.JPG At the front fan shroud. On the left rear exhaust manifold. DSCF7797.JPG DSCF7798.JPG I hope that helps. The bracket on the rear exhaust manifold is a simple fabrication job. Easier for me because I have one to copy from. Good Luck. Let me know if I can help. I don't know where sandy eggo is. GOT IT. HAHA.
 

viking76

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Thanks again for all of the info and pictures! That really helps. I have some parts on order and will post the results. I need to check my manifold to see if it is factory correct or aftermarket before I try to replace that bracket.
 

WWRD99

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I did a thing! Probably old hat to most but it was new to me. So here it is in case anyone finds it useful.
Cheers!
Looks like some nice lines! I had mine repaired pressing on new hose,,, probably should just replace them entirely...I have seen the cooler unhooked from the radiator before and it is usually a leaking or low flow cooler inside...the cooler hooked up now hopefully is a big one that has a thermal switch inside...they allow only some of its core used when the fluid is cold and opens up the entire core once warmed up...I prefer the radiator style ones not the big tube ones....not a huge deal if you don't get cold where you are though!
 

cucvrus

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Looks like some nice lines! I had mine repaired pressing on new hose,,, probably should just replace them entirely...I have seen the cooler unhooked from the radiator before and it is usually a leaking or low flow cooler inside...the cooler hooked up now hopefully is a big one that has a thermal switch inside...they allow only some of its core used when the fluid is cold and opens up the entire core once warmed up...I prefer the radiator style ones not the big tube ones....not a huge deal if you don't get cold where you are though

Lost in translation. Please explain. I speak Pennsylvania Dutch and English and don't understand this paragraph and how it pertains to a CUCV engine oil cooler system. Maybe it's just early. .
 

viking76

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Here is the latest. I added the hardline bracket on the radiator shroud and rerouted/replaced the hard lines for the Trans Cooler. Looks like I did that just in time too since there was a spot in one of the hard lines that was really thin. Also, I took out the auxillary transmission cooler and went to the radiator instead after flushing the ports. I won't know if I need that extra cooling or not until I get a temp gauge on it under load.

 

cucvrus

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Trans cooler lines.
I think all is well. I pulled trailers with my M1009 in stock form. Not the best gears for trailer pulling but nonetheless I did it for 20 years. Heavy loads and tow barred CUCV trucks and other M1009's from far south to PA. I never had a transmission issue. I had my transmission overhauled out of preventive maintenance in 2010. I was servicing the transmission and thought why not have it rebuilt. I pulled it and the man at the shop said everything looked good but the seals and things were crispy and old. After that I ran it about 75K more as a wood truck and work vehicle. Sold it and never had a transmission issues. I think the original design works as long as you stay within the parameters of the original design and towing capacity. After that it becomes a safety issue. Good Luck. Were you able to secure the lines at the rear of the engine? Thank you for posting. Take Care.
 

viking76

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@cucvrus Thanks again for the info. That is a negative on securing the rear of the oil cooler lines. I am going to send you a direct message about that rear bracket.

@WWRD99 Fortunately I am not in a winter environment, so no need to run any therm-controlled oil cooling. But I get your point. The oil cooler lines where from LMC Truck and they are NOT made in China. I forget if they where made here or Canada.... They seem pretty legit so I am happy with them.
 

WWRD99

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@cucvrus Thanks again for the info. That is a negative on securing the rear of the oil cooler lines. I am going to send you a direct message about that rear bracket.

@WWRD99 Fortunately I am not in a winter environment, so no need to run any therm-controlled oil cooling. But I get your point. The oil cooler lines where from LMC Truck and they are NOT made in China. I forget if they where made here or Canada.... They seem pretty legit so I am happy with them.
You shouldn't need the external trans cooler then...who knows why they unhooked it...the one in the radiator should be fine! 400s typically don't get to hot plus a pretty tough one...I saw you may put a temp gauge on the trans too...be fun to see what you get...I've been on the lmc site a good bit...I had a local company replace the one hose for a decent price...took a while though so I may just order the next one.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

viking76

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Well either my lines or the fittings are too long for the support bracket by about 3/4 of an inch.
@cucvrus , et. al. - Thoughts on using hangar strap instead of the actual clip? Or should I shorten the lines and re-crimp?20210808_145027.jpg
 
Last edited:

cucvrus

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Well either my lines or the fittings are too long for the support bracket by about 3/4 of an inch.
@cucvrus , et. al. - Thoughts on using hangar strap instead of the actual clip? Or should I shorten the lines and re-crimp?View attachment 841983
OK. May I suggest that you thread the bolt thru the bracket and nut. That way you have a stud and can put the strap onto the stud and just put a nut on it. Also loosening the lines as you do the fitting will help. Them replacement lines are a blast. Some fit like a glove and others fit like Oj's glove. Good Luck. You got this.
 

viking76

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OK. May I suggest that you thread the bolt thru the bracket and nut. That way you have a stud and can put the strap onto the stud and just put a nut on it. Also loosening the lines as you do the fitting will help. Them replacement lines are a blast. Some fit like a glove and others fit like Oj's glove. Good Luck. You got this.
Great suggestions. Thank you!
 
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