m1008 voltage gauge in the yellow on start, is that normal?

[maxpanic]

oh yeah, the diode went to infinity when it is reversed on the diode checker.

Thanks for the great info Warthog, that should be enough to get me back up and running.

 

[Warthog]

Thanks for the great info Warthog, that should be enough to get me back up and running.

That's what this site is all about. Glad I could help.

 

[maxpanic]

I must admit, I am still struggling with the M1008 and gen2 light. I have tested the relay and diode for gen 2 and they both check out. The F-4 diagram on page F-11 of the TM shows the connections that I think are relevant. Between ground and the black/pink wire on the relay plug I show about 11.5 volts when I turn the ignition to "accessories on". I know I have a good connection from the generator 2 to the diodes cathode and a good connection from the anode to the brown wire port on the relay plug. The only thing I can see that could still be an issue is the brown/red wire from the relay to the gen 2 light. I am considering cutting this wire at the relay and running another wire up to the bulb but this feels wrong for some reason. It seems like there should be a better way. I there something that the voice of experience can recommend at this point?

When I start the truck without the gen 2 light ever turning on the truck fires right up and runs with the volt meter in the lower green section. I checked the fuses in the fuse box and they are all good. I am confused by the wire that goes from the gen 2 light to the fuse box though. Does the connection go to ground after the fuse?

 

[maxpanic]

I am still struggling with this m1008 and the Gen 2 light. Looks like I have a good circuit from the fuse to the light to the alternator. I think I have a problem with one of the other wires off the alternator.

Does anyone know what the physical location is for where these other wires are going? I am hoping to check connectivity without having to take the wires out of the tubing if possible.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Reverend Evil]

What he said

Switch your leads and see what the reading is. It should go to infinity (and beyond..... )

The GEN2 relay is under the dash, along with the Voltmeter relay and Starter Relay. All three should be attached to a metal plate just above where the ICE/STE Cannon plug is in the center of the lower dash.

On the horn, there is a diode on the back side of the horn relay that are know to fail. This causes the horn to be on all the time.

The horn relay is above the fusebox.

 

[maxpanic]

Thanks Reverend, that is a good point. I did all that a while ago. Now I am asking about the wires from the actual generation of amperage coming out of the alternator rather than the two wire pigtail that goes into the rectifier.

Thank you.

 

[Reverend Evil]

If i am not badly mistaken gen 2 has the hot wire from gen 1 going in along with the 2 wires to the rectifier then it should have 2 wires going out the larger of the 2 should go to the passenger side fire wall to the wire block there and the smaller wire should go to the resitor mounted on the center of the fire wall behind the vacume pump this is where i found mine when tracing them out ... but i am also a fng as i am still trying to make my gen 2 light stop flashing ... new belts per the dayco # rebuilt both alts new everything inside they are fine. i have heard /read that the fan motor for the heater is on the same circut and can cause the light to flicker. I am not sure of this but have isolated everything i can in my truck this is next for me to fix.I am kinda ocd if i have it my way the truck will be factory when it is done (plus the lift and tires) I have even replaced the intire under dash fuse box and wiring harness and it still flickers the amp draw from the fan motor is next to be looked at

 

[maxpanic]

Finally got my m1008 online after finding that I had an open circuit between gen 2 alternator and the firewall connection that is next to the glow plug solenoid.

 

[txmytx_catahoula]

Congrats and thanks for the complete thread. It will give us all a path to check if we have the same symptoms!!

 

[maxpanic]

Looks like I missed something after all. My rear blinkers aren't working. they worked when I passed safety inspection but somehow stopped working when these strange problems started showing up. The brake lights work, the rear running lights work, just no signal lights.

What would cause this?

 

[maxpanic]

Bump

 

[carctruck]

Looks like I missed something after all. My rear blinkers aren't working. they worked when I passed safety inspection but somehow stopped working when these strange problems started showing up. The brake lights work, the rear running lights work, just no signal lights.

What would cause this?

I had this same issue, I resolved it by pulling apart the fuse box and cleaning all the connections with trichloorothane contact cleaner, you dont have to use trich though, any good electrical contact cleaner

 

[Abbylind]

I had a front turn signal light that wouldn't work. Changed the bulb 2X... no joy. Examined the socket found the ground wire had worked loose from the bulb socket. Soldered it together...problem solved. Check your sockets and connections. Meter the socket with the bulb removed. Sounds like a bad connection. Good luck