M1009 4BT swap!

[Patattack]

that why when you find an cummins it important to find one with the adaptor you want. But if I wanted to put a 47re from a dodge a adaptor plate from a dodge cummins is cheap!!!! I seen complete packages for 200 from junked trucks. I'm just going with the gm one because it's what I the engine came with and I have a rebuilt th400 laying around. The tilt really inst a big deal I actually help the oil pan clear the differential a little.

The turbo is a hx30 its the stock one that come with the motor and from what I read is the best one rated for this motor without lag time compared if you were to put a hx35 on it. If you have a p pump it will have a hx30 if it's a ve pump you'll have a baby h1c.

 

[Patattack]

So I scraped my plan with using the original mounts on the frame and modifying the original crossmember. I made some make shift mounts from some scrap metal to see if I could get it to work but they sit to high and to close. If I went with a aftermarket adaptor I would have been ok but because of the tilt it would have looked shady and even more work to make it right!!! so off too plan b. My new plan is to construct a crossmember and a engine mount all in one. I seen stuff online that already sell these but they look too expensive for a bunch of box steel welded together and are more gear to the center mounting points of a 6bt. Unbolting the mount from the frame was a real pain!!!! They really tucked them bolts up in there. So with those removed, turbo and manifold removed, I could see what I was working with.

Also I found that the oil filter was too close to the frame and the oil feed hose was to close also. Now knowing people and helping the out time to time when they call you can really pays off!!!! I called someone that I do side work for when he need it and had a 6bt laying around in his shop that had a melt down so he let me take most of the parts off it. I was able to get the vertical oil filter plate and the 6 plated oil cooler which will help keep the engine cooler vs the 4 plated in the 4bt. He also gave me a new cummins fuel pump and a few odd and ends he had laying around so thanks buddy!!!!!!!


With my ruler ( I own at least 4 tape measures and couldn't find a single one!!!!!) I started on my measurements. 13 1/2 is my center mark and I needed the crossmember to sit 3 inches below the bottom of the frame and the center length below the engine to be 14 inches long. I found me a big piece of cardboard and started drawlying my crossmember out.Took 2 try's but I got it. By the way I don't ever clam to be a fabricator or a professional welder so helpful hints would be welcomed any time you find something wrong!!!!! After I was happy with it I found a thinier piece that I could easily cut with some crossers and mad a templet.

I quite pleased with it!!!! The passenger side I can bolt the mount right on the crossmember but the driver side I'll have to make a mount to make the motor mount sit higher no big deal. So next I'm getting a plasma cuter from a buddy of mine to cut the box tubing and use my welder to tack the tubing in place. Make sure everything fits nice then take it to my work were we got a really, really nice welder, mines ok for small jobs but this one will give me that deep penetration mine can't. Bolt everything in place drink some beer, bask in my creation and then move on to the next step..... THIS!!!!!

 

[tim292stro]

In addition to the oil plate heat exchangers, you can get the industrial remote oil filter plate, and get that filter away from the engine entirely. I'm doing that with my 6BT build. If you are not bound to the gm transmission, you can look at the Allison 1000 from a later model Duramax truck. My

 

[Patattack]

I thought of a remote relocation adaptor but this one was free so I'm going to see how this one works and if I don't like it I'm going with a remote plate. An 1000 would be nice but hard to find a wrecked Dmax around my area. I could pick up a 4l80e easier and cheaper then a 1000 plus I already rebuilt one for my 3500 so I know how to do one and it didn't cost me much to do it. A 4l80 max torque is 440 and I don't think I'll ever get that engine past 400 and if I did I built proof a 47re. I hear of a guy in my area that does high proformance diesels he built a 6.4 powerstroke that did 1200 hp before the engine became a v7 put a 47re behind it because he said once you bullet proof them there indistructible.

 

[tim292stro]

Yeah, that's just leakage from my fantasies I'd love to have a pair of M1009's with 4BTs with Allison 1000's (and a pair of M998's with the same or 6BT's) to go with my XM1027 build (crew cab dually pickup) with the 6BT and the Fuller FS-8406A. I don't want to cut-up the M1009 I have now since it's so close to stock. It would be fun to convoy with my boys and some friends - some day maybe

 

[Patattack]

Been busy and tried, 3 trucks in one week to work on AFTER my work hours!!!!! Still disassembling then engine on the 3rd freaking intertrashionals!!!!!! So updates are going to be slow. I hacked away at the cross member little by little some in the garage and some at the welding shop at my work during my lunch. I used 2" box tubing 1/4 thick a little hefty but it's what I had laying around. I cut up my section using the templet on the cardboard. My angles aren't prefict but it will out with a little grinding. Now I match my angle up and tacked welded them together to hold them in place. I have a welder at home, it's nice for small stuff but not 1/4. All my welding that I do is at work.


After i I like what I saw I welded it all up. Then I had to do more grinding and cutting I used a good Miller welder that could weld 1/4 like it was nothing. Also welding in some caps to cover the holes to give it that added touch.


I using some angle iron I also had to hold it to the frame. I plan on drilling two hole on the bottom and side to bolt it up in place. I wish I had a second hand to hold it up the but I used a strap and it did the job. The was two point one on each side that was prefict. I lined the crossmember, angle pieces up and it had to be prefict. After it was lined up I tack the **** out of it so it wouldn't move on transit.

So ill weld it all up at work and give you guys a update when it's bolted in. Just wanted to show you guys what I been up to!!!!!

 

[gentrysgarage]

I would vote for the 47RE if an Allison is out of the picture. There is an aftermarket stronger replacement frame piece for the steering box it is an online shop that deals mainly with blazers, it has been a while since I saw it. Also is suggested to sleeve the mounting bolts (it takes some of the stress out). For what its worth, I am putting a 6BT FSO-6046 in the truck that is my avatar. Looking good so far!

 

[Patattack]

Never thought of sleeves in the holes that would totally relieve the stress off the frame thanks for the idea!!!! I seen them online too there pretty cheap and inexpensive for the plate and bracket. This one pretty bad I can turn the colum by hand and watch the fram twist.

 

[Patattack]

Time for a update after almost two years of starting this project the motor finally sitting in the frame. So far I only made one mistake and welded the plate for the motor mount on the crossmember on the wrong side and thatsnthe only part of the welding I did that looked really really good so I had to weld another one on there. But basically I took the old engine mounts that came with the motor and cuted them up since all the holes were already drilled and square I figured why not. Since there's a tilt I have one motor mount sitting on the crossmember then made a mount for the other side and bolted it to the frame. I bolted the plates to the motor, Sat my mounts in, square the motor up the took the lower part of the old mount, lined it up and tacked it really good.

I finished the last touches on the cross member and welded some plates over the box tubing were they were welded together to add strength. A Good buddy of mine that been doing this for awhile advised me to drill 2 holes in the bottom to let it breath since its all welded up. I also welded plates on the end so I can have something for it to bolt to in the end it look amazing but it's really heavy!!!!!

I lifted the crossmember and straped it in and drilled 4 holes on each side using a 1/2 drill bit I got from lowes which to my suprise did really good. Finshed the mounts and dropped it in and it looks great and fits prefict. I don't think those kits online that at 700-800 bucks would have looked any better. this is my first attempt a fabrication like this and don't think I did that bad. Now my next step with this is to take the engine back out because this was a test fit and the trans that in it isn't the one going with it. After memorial weekend I'm going to order the repair kit to fix my frame on the gear box so that the next thing on the list.

 

[Patattack]

BACK FOR THE DEAD!!!!!

7 months later and she's back on the road. I have pics I'll have to download them later. Instead of writing it all out I did a video instead ENJOY!!!!!

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=123h3gZPPGs

 

[rustystud]

I wanted to hear it run. Can you do another video of the engine running ?

 

[Patattack]

Sure rusty I'm going to the store later I do one there. Now I got it going I'm find all sorts of excuses to take it out!!!!!

 

[Patattack]

Here one driving around town for you

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=T_FRs2JMbt8

 

[rustystud]

Here one driving around town for you

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=T_FRs2JMbt8

Your engine sounds great ! The upshift problem could be the modulator is out of adjustment. Try and screw it out some.

 

[PJL]

I was wondering how he worked the vacuum system to operate the modulator. Looks great though. Seems to run real nice.

 

[Patattack]

Well I messed with the afc housing on the pump and got it to deliver more fuel with low boost and man what a difference, Cummins must have detuned thes things for the gearing and fuel economy for the vans. I also have a junk th400 I robbed the governor off of it and grinder on the wieghts and it made a difference as well its still shifting to early but now it's in 3rd at 25-30 now before it was 20 so I'll have to shave more weight off or get a calibration kit. I still wanna get a shift kit though I think that might help it out so we'll see. But yea I have that module screwed to max!!!! So I think it's to do with the power band of the Cummins vs the 6.2. I don't know if it needs some kind of regulator though like the one on the side of the 6.2 pump, the dodge pump might be pulling to much vacuum. The first gen dodge pump had 2 diagrams I deleted one so there's only one like the 6.2 pump.... more research is in store!!!!

 

[gringeltaube]

Cummins, ... please!

 

[Patattack]

Don't tell me that tell my iPad that!!!!!

 

[Patattack]

after driving on the highway at 65 it's maxed out in Rpms , some thinking and research I conclude that the th400 is going out and a 4l80e that came out from my 99 3500 which I replaced with a good gm rebuild I go from junking a dually. I think all the trans needs is a rebuild It would start banging gears when I went past 65 and lose line pressure. come up with a gear ratio code. Luckily for me if I buy all the parts I know a trans guy through my contacts and been rebuilding trans for 20 years said he charge me 400 to do it. So I know I need a trans controller and I'm researching for the best one out there right now. But as of now the truck still on the road and I put 200 on it so far and only had a oil leak so far from the turbo feed line that I tighten up and it's still holding out. But money being saved right now and research is being done will update in a month or two on installing the trans hopefully.... overdrive would be nice!!!!!!