m1009 4wd help

[conifercucv]

I bought my m1009 about five months ago. I haven't had a chance to use the 4wd until yesterday. When I put it into 4H there was a loud "clunking" sound and shaking from the front end when I drove up my driveway. The driveway isn't very steep and is relatively straight. I put it back in 2H and then drove to get an oil change. The oil change shop told me the front differential was completely out of fluid so they refilled it.
Today I tried 4wd again and again heard and felt the clunking and shaking.
Any help would be appreciated.

 

[kevin-m1008]

I think its time to pull the front cover and see what you have in there for rust, pieces of metal ect..

In the meantime make sure the hubs are unlocked and do not use 4wd

You could try this:
With the hubs unlocked you should be able to get under the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft it should be fairly easy to turn. but taking off the inspection cover is the best thing. Just buy some gear oil before you do it and get a new gasket from NAPA or other auto parts store. I prefer gaskets instead of liquid gaskets.

also its a good idea not to use 4wd on dry pavement as you will experience torque steer and some odd noises as the front and back differentials fight each other.

 

[conifercucv]

Thanks I'll try that. Depending on the damage can it be rebuilt or does it need to be replaced?

 

[kevin-m1008]

Once you open it up and look inside that will help determine cost. Look for rust and broken gears and rusted bearings it could get expensive to replace the parts.

Those front ends complete are fairly cheap just make sure of what your buying and that the gear ratios are the same or that adds a bit to the costs.

Good luck and let us know what you find

 

[91W350]

Take a good look at the u-joints in the axles. Like previously described, you can lock in the hubs and turn the drive shaft to look for movement in the joint. You can also have somebody shift from drive to reverse while you look at the joint. Glen

 

[conifercucv]

Thanks for the help I'll open it up tomorrow and take a look.

 

[porkysplace]

Thanks for the help I'll open it up tomorrow and take a look.

as 91w350 said check the u-joints first . all you need to do is jack it up with proper support , lock the hubs turn driveshaft you can see the u-joints without removing anything , open steering knuckes check drive shaft also. if they look good then pull the cover unless it needs a fluid change anyhow

 

[pigfoot63]

When you are under the truck turning the front shaft check for clearance at your crossmember. I just fix one by replacing the rear mount.

 

[DokWatson]

Nobody has even mentioned bearings. Who knows how long it sat dry, I bet you every single bearing in the front axle is hopelessly seized up. Pinion is probably shot too, unbolt the drive shaft and give the yoke a tug, I bet you it wiggles around in the housing too.

 

[conifercucv]

I was able to turn the driveshaft easily although it feels loose and makes a noise when it engages. The left side u-joint turns but is loose and moves side to side. The right side u-joint feels solid. I haven't had a chance to take the cover off yet though.

 

[344lbsofgetdown]

sounds like u joint to me take the cover off to check anyway

 

[conifercucv]

My buddy and I are going to work on the ujoints and pull the cover this weekend. Thanks for all the help and advice.

 

[porkysplace]

it will be a good time to replace the spindle bushings as well and do a general inspection of all front end components

 

[conifercucv]

Well I finally got around to taking off the front differential cover. There were a lot of metal pieces inside and a few bearings in the housing. Both sets of bearings where the axle shafts meet the differential gears looked shot. The gears themselves turned freely and looked pretty good except for a small chip on one of the teeth on the planetary gear. I checked the manuals to see how to replace those bearings but couldn't find anything. Any ideas?

 

[porkysplace]

the first thing you need to do is pick-up a manuel most auto parts storeswill have them. It is the same as civi balzer
hayes manuels have pretty good illustrations . You will need to pull axels and the carrier itself

 

[conifercucv]

Thanks. I'll get the manual and try that next.

 

[OL AG '89]

The military TM's (free on this site) are 1000% better than ANY civilian manual. Which manual did you look in? The -10 and -20 will not have the info. The -34 is the direct support manual (highest level of support) You should everything you need in it.
The military designed the mls for the soldiers at all levels.
GOOD LUCK, if you don't find the info, PM me and I'll look at my -34's.

 

[porkysplace]

The military TM's (free on this site) are 1000% better than ANY civilian manual. Which manual did you look in? The -10 and -20 will not have the info. The -34 is the direct support manual (highest level of support) You should everything you need in it.
The military designed the mls for the soldiers at all levels.
GOOD LUCK, if you don't find the info, PM me and I'll look at my -34's.

the old site is down again no TM"S to download

 

[conifercucv]

Thanks I think I have the 34 I only looked in the 10 and 20. I'll try that next.

 

[Warthog]

the old site is down again no TM"S to download

JATONKA has them on his website.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/conversations/61836-tech-manuals-deuce-cucv.html

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