Right now I have an M1009 with a six inch lift running 35's. My goal was to run 37" Hummer tires on the larger dana 60 and 14 bolt axle. I have read what I have been able to find about swapping axles and the problems with it. From what I have read I think if I was to switch to the bigger 14 bolts and dana 60 i would have to move the perches, but I have also read that i might need a bigger brake cylinder/bigger u-joints on the drive shaft and bigger u bolts as well. Im going to college this August and its about a two hour drive from home would the bigger axle's with the bigger tires ruin the gas milage even more then the 35's and how much slower would I be with the bigger gears? In all how much would swapping the axles approximately cost? I guess what I am trying to ask is should I get the larger tires and if so what problems would i run into?
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M1009 Axle Swap
- Thread starter Pballer71
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richingalveston
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Without the bigger axles dont go bigger than 35. The 60 is a direct bolt in only changes will be the U-bolts and you will want new mounting hardware for the axles anyway. Make sure you get the top plates (plates that are on top of the springs) with the axle. Depending on the 14 bolt that you get, spring perches may or may not need to be moved. Some bolt right in with new mounting hardware. Deffinately do the U-bolt flip on the rear.
gas mileage, MPH and RPM's will be totally different with the new set up. you have an option of many different gear ratio's for the new axles but changing the ratio does cost more money and no one can answer your question until you decide on the ratios you plan to use.
The axles them selves will probably cost you 1500 to 2k, changing the gear ratios may cost another $1000 or more. All of your mounting hardware will be another 500 to 1000. and yes you will probably spend another $1000 on getting your driveshafts rebuilt. shock mounts may have to be redone on the axles also.
your tires and wheels may cost another large chunk of change.
If you do decide to do all of the above, you really need to do the cross over steering or you risk drag link breakage and you will definately have poor steering when in off camber situations.
All of the prices above are if you do the work yourself. Add a lot more money if you are paying someone to do it.
If you have a lot of money to burn, go for it. Otherwise I would consider just taking care of what you have until you get out of school and you have the money and time to play with the truck.
gas mileage, MPH and RPM's will be totally different with the new set up. you have an option of many different gear ratio's for the new axles but changing the ratio does cost more money and no one can answer your question until you decide on the ratios you plan to use.
The axles them selves will probably cost you 1500 to 2k, changing the gear ratios may cost another $1000 or more. All of your mounting hardware will be another 500 to 1000. and yes you will probably spend another $1000 on getting your driveshafts rebuilt. shock mounts may have to be redone on the axles also.
your tires and wheels may cost another large chunk of change.
If you do decide to do all of the above, you really need to do the cross over steering or you risk drag link breakage and you will definately have poor steering when in off camber situations.
All of the prices above are if you do the work yourself. Add a lot more money if you are paying someone to do it.
If you have a lot of money to burn, go for it. Otherwise I would consider just taking care of what you have until you get out of school and you have the money and time to play with the truck.
rangerny
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m1009 axle 10 bolt
Hi, I'm trying to learn a little more about the axles. The M1009 CUCV came with the chevy 10 bolt 30 spline axles right?
How strong is it? Can I run up to a 33" or 33" tire on them without having to change anything?
Thanks
Hi, I'm trying to learn a little more about the axles. The M1009 CUCV came with the chevy 10 bolt 30 spline axles right?
How strong is it? Can I run up to a 33" or 33" tire on them without having to change anything?
Thanks
richingalveston
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33's will be ok, they are the largest you can go and stay all stock.
Skinny
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How about some CUCV axles so you are geared, locked, and ready to go. I wouldn't waste money on a set of axles you will have to regear, you will be higher on cost for your gears, bearings, install kits, and a detroit. Just start with CUCV axles if 4.56 are close to what you want.
Yeah thats what I was thinking about doing. Just have to save up the money now do the CUCV ones use the same u joints for the drive shaft?
Thank you