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M1009 Blower Fan

biggold

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Just thought I would ask you guys before I go ripping stuff up. My heater blower fan is not working at all off the switch. When I turn the switch on the Gen 1 light comes on. I checked fuses and they all look good. Jumped power to the fan and it works direct great. I read here that the Gen 1 alt comes on when using the fan?? Checked wires to alt and looks OK. Just got this thing and the alt (drivers side) looks new. Belts tight. Any Ideas are much appreciated.
 

Warthog

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Check the fan switch on the dash. It is known to over heat and melt the connector causing the fan not to work.
 

biggold

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OK I checked the switch but no power to it. I've checked fuses again but look OK and 12V going thru it. Wonder if wire off in back somewhere. Power to the switch first and then fan resistor right? Where does this GEN 1 come into play or does it? Thanks
 

boomer431

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Not sure on the CUCV but on the civ models the power wire is brown and there was a connector in the wire about 6" from the fan switch that was bad about burning up and losing connection.
 

Wolf.Dose

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It is not the fan as you found out, not the gen 1, it is a bad shwich which makes a "light short". Replace it. It's a cheep Delphi part. Should be available at the GM or Chevy Dealer. It's a civilian part.
Wolf
 

biggold

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Well I checked the brown connector that boomer431mentioned and there is no power to it. While I had the connector disconnected I put power to the other lead that goes to the switch and it (the fan)all works fine on all speeds. Checked fuses again and even replaced but no power to the brown wire. I don't have any problem at all running a new fused power lead to the switch but.. am wondering about this gen 1 thing. Any chance the brown wire is supplied power thru that alt? I see brown wires at the alt but no power thru them. Course I can't run it right now cause I got the belts off to replace tomorrow. Thanks again.
 

Warthog

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I have attached the wiring diagram for the Heater.

The top fuse is for the heater. It gets its 12v power when the key is turned on.

Pull the fuse and check for power on right side with the key off and the key on.

If you have power then reinstall the fuse and check for power on the left side.

Sometimes the connectors get so dirty/corroded that the fuse doesn't make good contact.

The brown wire runs from the left side of the fusebox to the connector 6" or so from the switch.

If you have power at the fuse and no power at the brown connector then you will have to trace the wire or replace it. You can check the continuity of the brown wire by using the left side of the fuse holder and the connector you unpluged before

The Gen1 light comes on because of the power draw thru Gen1. It could mean that your alternator needs a rebuild in the future.

What doesn't make sense is that there is a power draw/short when the switch is turned on. If there is no power to the switch, how is it causing a power draw?????


One thing I would recommend doing not mater what is removing ALL the fuses and using contact cleaner and maybe some fine sand paper and cleaning ALL the fuse sockets. Of course you need to disconnect the batteries first....:wink:


Right click on the thumbnail and choose "Open Link in New WIndow"
 

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biggold

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Thanks alot for the reply and diagram. I will check the fuse block again and clean it up as suggested. Then probably run new line to connector. I checked for power on the fuse block side of connector. Nothing. I see your point about how the gen1 light coming on with no power to the switch. Curious. I wonder if it works thru the ground like an old seat belt buzzer? The alt appears new. Nice and shiny :) but that doesn't mean it is good.
 

Warthog

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Lets find out why you don't have power to the fuse.

Tracing backwards from the fuse to the power source......

Looking at the #4 and #3 diagrams, the blower fuse gets it power from the ignition switch. It is located on top of the steering column, above the brake pedal. The ignition switch gets it power from the 12v terminal block in the engine compartment. When the ignition switch is in the run position the blower circuit closes and connects the battery power to the Blower fuse.

1.Remove the connector from the ignition switch. Check for 12v at the red wire for the blower. If you do not have power check the fusable link - Red 16 gauge wire connected to a red 12 gauge wire. You can pull on the wire to see if it stretches indicating a broken wire. Just don't pull to hard.


2. Check the continuity from the Orange wire to to right side of the Blower Fuse connection.


If you have power from the terminal block, thru the fusable link, to the ignition switch plug AND the orange wire to the blower fuse is good, I would replace the ingition switch. It is a standard GM switch available anywhere.
 

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topgun217

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When I brought mine home, I found the last service documents inside the glove box and it stated "blower for heat not working"! Once we got in there and pulled the pace off the insturment panel and started cleaning with air gun and then CRC cleaner, as well as the sand paper on the connections on the back of the fan swith....wahla! Everything worked fine!

Now if I can only figure out my dash light issue!
 

biggold

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Colusa, CA
WELL...I got it working. Pretty embarassing. It was the fuses. Even tho there was power going thru the fuse it was not making good connection inside. So as others here suggested I took out all fuses , cleaned with elec contact cleaner and sanded the fuses. They were really in need of that...never seen anything like it. Anyway it worked. Fan works on all speeds and my Gen1 lite not on anymore. Sure appreciate all the replies and help here. Now anyone know where I can find the antenna mast that fits this unit (see pic) Found a guy on here that said he had one but now can't seem to get back in touch with him. THANKS!.
 

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