M1009 Cold Starting Tips

[CUCV85]

won't run worth a hoot

How do you know when injector pump is failing, I have 1008 thats hard to start even in warm temps, one its warmed starts easy?

When your IP fails it won't run worth a hoot. When mine failed it would start but when you tried to rev it up it would die. The first thing to go on these pumps is the throttle shaft o rings. To replace the throttle shaft o rings you must remove the intake manifold and then remove the top cover to the IP pull the bolt out from the back of the IP with an Allen Wrench, remove the cam/components carefully - recall how it is all set up. Then slide the throttle shaft out the side and remove the o rings. Slide the new ones on reverse your takeoff procedures. Hope like heck your pump lasts a while longer. I got about 5000 miles/6months out of this procedure then my IP failed.
If you can afford it get the IP totally rebuilt and enjoy for the life of the vehicle/as long as you own it.

 

[NMC_EXP]

When your IP fails it won't run worth a hoot. When mine failed it would start but when you tried to rev it up it would die. The first thing to go on these pumps is the throttle shaft o rings. To replace the throttle shaft o rings you must remove the intake manifold and then remove the top cover to the IP pull the bolt out from the back of the IP with an Allen Wrench, remove the cam/components carefully - recall how it is all set up. Then slide the throttle shaft out the side and remove the o rings. Slide the new ones on reverse your takeoff procedures. Hope like heck your pump lasts a while longer. I got about 5000 miles/6months out of this procedure then my IP failed.
If you can afford it get the IP totally rebuilt and enjoy for the life of the vehicle/as long as you own it.

Today I installed a manual glow switch and new glow plugs in my M1009 due to 100% failure to start cold. With the manual switch I now hear the relay closing (did not with the auto system) but no fire even with the new plugs. I have more electrical troubleshooting to do but your comments about a leaking injection pump got my attention.

I dropped a wrench and while I was under the vehicle I noticed a fuel leak on the floor.

It was dripping off the starter and the bottom rear of the oil pan was wet. I did not have time to remove the air cleaner and look around up top.

When your o-ring leak occured was it dripping, and where?

Thanks

Jim

 

[CUCV85]

It will leak from the throttle shaft
and will flow in the v part of the top of the engine
between valve covers and under the intake manifold.
There is a small hole at the back of the engine,
that allows run off down into the flywheel cover (bell housing)
and in turn run out a small hole to the rear of the bottom of the bell housing (flywheel cover)

 

[NMC_EXP]

It will leak from the throttle shaft
and will flow in the v part of the top of the engine
between valve covers and under the intake manifold.
There is a small hole at the back of the engine,
that allows run off down into the flywheel cover (bell housing)
and in turn run out a small hole to the rear of the bottom of the bell housing (flywheel cover)

Thank you kindly.

Jim

 

[TCUCV]

I've read the back of the visor to follow the starting tips when the engine is cold. I would say that this is not the best way for me to start my truck when its cold. Letting it crank for up to 15 seconds burns the starter, so I've been told by mechanics to . . .
1. Turn key to run position
2. After wait light goes out, crank engine for 2-3 seconds(while holding throttle half way down) then cut it off
3. Wait about 3-4 seconds before turning it back to the run position
4. Then crank the engine again while holding the throttle half way down)

My truck has cranked for me everytime I started it this way, even in 20-30 degree conditions. It seems as though I barely use my starter compared to when I was holding it down waiting for it to start. Figured I'd share my experience