M1009 Didn't want to start this morning

[AlwaysInATruck]

Hey guys this morning when I got in the truck for work, I flipped the switch warmed the glow plugs like every other morning and it started like normal but it was basically stuttering and the it died. So after turning it over a few times and warming the plugs some more it started but the whole time i kept turning it over it sounded like it wanted to start. This was a struggle compared to every other time I have started the truck. I have very little experience with diesel trucks. I am pretty handy and have the resources to buy whatever parts necessary as I love this truck. Can you guys tell me if youve had this problem or one similar and how you went about rectifying the situation? (It is my daily driver and only method of transportation, Im an 18 year old college student)

Thank You in advance

PS: I searched forums but didnt see the same problem. I am on these forums all the time I just read never post

 

[Warthog]

When was the last time you changed the fuel filter?

 

[Hasdrubal]

Sounds like you have the dreaded "air in fuel system syndrome". There must be hundreds of threads covering this as its a common issue on CUCV's. Most likely culprit is the fuel presure sensor in the back of your fuel filter base.

Check to see if its wet on the bottom. If you get it started and running, when you shut it down you might try cracking the fuel cap to release vacuum. Thats how I diagnosed mine when it sputtered and died that very same way.

If you cant get it started, you'll have to bleed the injectors. I found an new filter base on-line but for several months made do with an ad-hoc solution, a small hole drilled into the fuel cap. You also might want to verify that your lift pump is working properly.

 

[AlwaysInATruck]

Fuel filter was changed August 1 and changed may 29 before that oil and air filter changed on August 1 as well. I forgot to mention that when I got to work got sent home (it's a restaurant and we were slow) truck was still hot and cranked right up. How do I verify my lift pump is properly working and if I do need to bleed injectors what will that require. Thank you for the help and I'm going to continue looking at old threads

 

[Hasdrubal]

Simple way to test the lift pump is place a clear hose on the filter bleed nipple, open bleed screw " make sure you've opened it enough!"put hose in a bottle, crank engine. You should get a good flow, fill over an inch of the bottle with every crank cycle. In the Tm's there are proper pressure tests.

Dont crank your starter longer than 5 seconds at one time, allow it to cool down in between cranks. If you're going to be doing a lot of cranking you'll need a battery charger. You might also want to remove the glow plugs, this will allow the motor to turn over effortlessly as there's no compression.

To bleed injectors; I cut a couple of pieces of cardboard, place on either side of motor, this will show you the fuel spray withought covering your inner fenders. Loosen the top nuts on the injectors where the lines go in. Crank engine, examine spray pattern on cardboard. You're looking for good solid wetness, some may have little fuel as its mostly air being purged. You'll probably have to do this several times.

When all 8 spray marks look good, tighten lines down, replace glow plugs, fire her up. If it is the filter base, cracking the fuel cap after shutdown will allow you to fire it up the next day, otherwise you'll become an expert at injector bleeding. That's been my experience.

 

[wayne pick]

If you have not done the doghead relay mod, DO NOT crank the engine repeatedly for long periods of time. You may end up with more problems than you have now. The moxt effective way to bleed injectors is to get the engine to fire and run on a few cylinders and bleed the injectors one at a time. Use cardboard to shield fuel spray from the exhast manifold, use eye protection, keep yer hands away from the fan and belts. The stanidine filter system is junk. Get yourself a spin on filter setup and an Airtech electric fuel pump.

 

[AlwaysInATruck]

Artie thank you for the information

 

[Hasdrubal]

" The moxt effective way to bleed injectors is to get the engine to fire and run on a few cylinders"

Really?, problem here is I was never in a position to get the motor running any of the 5 or so times when I ended up having to bleed my injectors. I'm assuming the OP hasn't got his running either.

As for the Stanadyne system being junk. Well thats your opinion isn't it. I know plenty of CUCV owners who run the stock system, it works just fine. No need to scare the OP into thinking he's got to go and replace all his components. Same goes for the mechanical lift pump, even though I've had to change mine out, i still prefer the mechanical system.

 

[wayne pick]

Sounds like you have the dreaded "air in fuel system syndrome". There must be hundreds of threads covering this as its a common issue on CUCV's. Most likely culprit is the fuel presure sensor in the back of your fuel filter base.

Sounds like you contradicted yourself. Anyway, I have been doing it this way for nearly 30 years on everything from miniature kabota engines to the biggest CATs in D8s, and in the coldest of tempratures. Guess it's all about technique. Im not trying to scare the OP into anything, just helping to make his truck more reliable. Removing glowplugs? Battery chargers? You got to be kidding.

 

[Hasdrubal]

A contradiction ? ; its a known issue, the military version of the filter base has a fuel pressure sensor o-ring thats prone to leak. Can be replaced easily or changed to the civy version. Doesn't make it a #&$@ system that needs tossing.

As for your heavy equipment experience, well thats irrelevent here,...we are talking about the 6.2. I've never managed to get one firing on a few cylinders so I could bleed injectors, it fires, sputters and dies. If anyone here has managed this feat; by all means let us know.

Kidding...no, just realistic info for the OP. Hes likely been cranking the starter repeatedly trying to get it to start. This will more than likely run his bats down which would necessitate the charger, many here can attest to that. The glow plug removal isn't necessary, but I did it as during the multiple cranks to purge air in lines as its less of a drain on the bats, lessens the load on the starter and it only takes a couple of minutes.

 

[wayne pick]

Hasdrubal, Believe me, I respect your experience and opinion. I don't want to get into a pi$$ing match about which system is better. An in line electric fuel pump eliminates the need to crank the engine to fill the fuel filter. It will also charge the IP far better than the mechanical pump. The spin on filter is simply filled with fuel and spun on leaving a small gap between the filter and the base. Turning the ignition to the on position for two seconds will purge any air remaining in the fuel lines, then tighten the filter. I installed the Airtex pump on my truck for $39.00, the spin on setup was installed by the PO. They can be had for as little as $50.00, depending on where you shop. I have changed the filter since purchasing the truck in October of last year using the procedure discribed above. The truck fired right up with no problem. Just my .