M1009 Electrical issues

[jterry211]

Hello i am new here and have some questions about a recently purchased (and BASTARDIZED) M1009. I purchased the M1009 off my neighbor for a great price as it was not running. It was already converted to 12 volts i think by a rabid beaver. I took out the resistor bank and put 12 volt to the glow plug relay and it cranked right up woohoo (um not yet) after bypassing the controller card all together. I took the drivers side alternator out along with the wiring because it was all wrong to begin with and burnt. Run new wires to the passenger side alt and started no charging. Traced the brown wire back to a relay under the dash no voltage no ground just there. Now i know that the passenger alternator needs an excite wire to induce charging, i figured that much out. And i also know that there is already a diode in the dash. and the brown wire basicaly just makes a loop through the GEN lights. Honestly don't care about them as i am replacing all with gauges.

Ok now for the questions.

Should i pull the brown wire coming from the old driver side alt and put it to 12v switched and then run the other side of the relay to the passenger alt through the diode so it gets the excite voltage to start it charging. Or just run new wires with a diode in it from the alt to 12v switched. Please feel free to be harsh i am new i expect it.

Also keep in mind the wiring in this thing is absolutely horrible almost nothing works but if i have it running and charging correctly i can figure the rest out.

The engine runs beautifully and there is not a dent in her just a lumpy wiring harness.

Thanks,
Jason

 

[rsh4364]

I would pick up a used wireing harness,then at least you would have a decent starting point,then if you still want 12v look into the rosscommon conversion.

 

[Westech]

Driver side alternator is the 12v side passenger is the 24v side. sounds like you need to go one of two ways..... back to factory or 100% remove the wiring harness and install a painless harness.

 

[jterry211]

i read the rosscommon writeup like a 1000 times and followed it to the T. Where can you get a new wire harness.

Thanks,
Jason

 

[cucvrus]

Do you have access to another CUCV that has not been cut up. It would be easy to just copy off of another unit that is running and working as designed. All the alternator plugs and connections are available at parts stores. I bought a few of these CUCV's that they had cut the harness at both alternators and the starter when they were still with the military. I just traced the wires and copied of another running unit. I used new connectors and heat shrunk all the connections and put new tape and loom on the harness when I had it all figured out. Lay the harness out as it was supposed to be and wire tie it down. Looks good and works. Good luck.

 

[jterry211]

No Sir i dont have access to another CUCV wish i did. After looking things over and removing all of the plastic from around the whole wire harness i found that most the wires that were cut go to the glow plug controller. im not worried about those as i am putting in real gauges anyway. I just need to know how to turn on the alternators internal regulator. I can jump the brown wire to a 12v+ and it starts charging so i know the alternator works. but in the wiring diagram it shows a diode in the dash which i have found and it goes to a relay next to the starter relay then to the idiot light and back out. It would seem that the left alt sends voltage to the right one and the diode prevents voltage from coming back into the dash. Im going to go home and play with it some more will let yall know what i find.

Thanks,
Jason

 

[jterry211]

Ok so i followed the brown wire that goes to the diode then turns brown and white back to the relay. Cut the brown and white wire from the relay and sent it to 12 volt keyed. Start the truck and it charges and no voltage coming back through the wire past the diode. That works and like i said i dont care about the idiot lights im going to put in gauges. I will just take out the relay or use it for something else.

Next question. How hot does the alternator get? Could have just been the battery +terminal was loose but it got a little warm.

 

[swiss]

jterry211, have you found all the posts by Warthog on electrical diagrams? Wart is the expert on CUCV electrical.

Go to google search and paste in the following:

cucv electrical diagram site:steelsoldiers.com

Click on images on the top of the google site. You can browse the images and then click into the thread.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

i found that most the wires that were cut go to the glow plug controller. im not worried about those as i am putting in real gauges anyway.

Something is radically wrong here. Other than the WAIT light, the GP controller doesn't have anything to do with idiot lights, and it's not part of the charging system.

I think you need to slow down and take the time to understand the system before you make things worse.

 

[jterry211]

Something is radically wrong here. Other than the WAIT light, the GP controller doesn't have anything to do with idiot lights, and it's not part of the charging system.

I think you need to slow down and take the time to understand the system before you make things worse.

Lol No I realize that the gp card has nothing to do with charging. I was only referring to the state of the wiring harness and it seemed that the only wires that were cut were from the gp controller. Totally separate subject sorry for the confusion.

I have gone through all the TM's wiring diagrams front to back to better understand how this system works.

The only thing i have done is bypass the relay that is next to the starter relay the one that controls the exciter voltage and the idiot light. It turns out that the 2 boxes (tach module and resistor board) attached to the diagnostic wiring dont work and that is why the alt on the right wouldnt turn on.

Thanks,
Jason