M1009 frame question

[RickTheEngineer]

Hey all, I wanted to ask this for myself and for the many others that are probably wondering the same thing. Some of us know that the m1009, or the K5 Blazer, does not have a very strong frame, especially near the power steering pump, where they are prone to crack. However, I am curious as to how common this problem actually is. Is it common on the K-5? Or is it where it would commonly crack if there was a crack? Also, would preemptively reinforcing this area be a good idea if one were to do a Cummins swap? Given the relatively heavy weight of the engine. Thanks!

 

[rustystud]

Hey all, I wanted to ask this for myself and for the many others that are probably wondering the same thing. Some of us know that the m1009, or the K5 Blazer, does not have a very strong frame, especially near the power steering pump, where they are prone to crack. However, I am curious as to how common this problem actually is. Is it common on the K-5? Or is it where it would commonly crack if there was a crack? Also, would preemptively reinforcing this area be a good idea if one were to do a Cummins swap? Given the relatively heavy weight of the engine. Thanks!

This was a major Achilles heel for all Chevy Blazers and Trucks of this time period. I would get a kit now for your rig before you have any issues. I was already experiencing frame torque issues on my M1028 when I got it. After installing the kit the frame has stayed stable after 20 years now.

 

[The FLU farm]

Yep, like Rusty says. It's easier to strengthen that area before it fails than after the fact.
Then again, many, many millions of miles have been put on these Chevys without any frame failures whatsoever. It probably depends largely on driving style (terrain), and maybe to some extent, wheel balance.

 

[blueblaze]

I've had several K30 and K20 trucks and one blazer used in the bush for mineral exploration and logging operations, all these trucks usually had 33's or 35's and lifted a tad and were used hard. I've never seen any of them develop cracks around the steering box. The only frame cracks to date was the blazer started to crack where the trans crossmember bolts to the frame on the d/s frame rail and in a random spot on the frame rail arch nearer to the rear wheel, also on the d/s. Maybe guys who run 40's and bounce off rocks have frame cracking issues around the box but I've never seen it personally yet. I feel the same way about 6.2's and 6.5's breaking crankshafts. I've never seen one personally yet. As for a cummins swap, the wife's truck is a 76 C10 stepside with a 6bt and its pulling just short of 700ft lbs of torque. No frame issues to date. Been 5 years running. Although being proactive is better then reacting.

 

[quickfarms]

I high school I had a 1977 blazer, commercial spec, that developed a crack in the frame by the power steering box

 

[rustystud]

Yes your going to hear about all the guys who never had a problem. The truth of the matter is it was a major problem and continues to be. That is why so many after-market kits are available now. I personally like "ORDs" kit .

 

[Rustyshackelford]

I installed the ORD bolt in kit when I bought my m1009. No frame cracks since then and it's $130 bucks. Definitely worth it to me just to not have to worry about it.

 

[honda]

The ORD kit worked well for me. The frame was cracked in 4 places in and around the steering box. ( self-inflicted misery )
Plan on maybe having to hog out the steering box bolt holes in the weld plate a bit if you use the weld kit, maybe even with the bolt on kit.

Also, read and FOLLOW the ORD instructions for weld beads. I wasn't to bright and read the instructions after installing the plate.
Contrary to the instructions I welded the entire perimeter of both weld plates. Welds look real pretty.
One of the dumbest things I've ever done. Hopefully I did not get the frame too hot.

If you weld a continuous bead around the entire weld plate edge the integrity of the frame may be compromised. Check google images
for proper examples of where to place the weld beads.

I agree with installing the kit even if the frame is not cracked, as long as the kit gets installed correctly.

BTW, for those who did the unspeakable of welding the entire perimeter of the weld plates. What's done is done. No going back.
If the frame got too hot ya got what ya got and better to keep a good eye on the frame.

 

[85CUCVtom]

I've been wanting one of the ORD kits but just haven't gotten a round to picking one up yet. Glad to hear it is a nice kit that works.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[86m1028]

1 do the weld on kit !
2 do the bolt in brace !
3 keep steer box bolts tight !
4 keep all bumper bracket bolts tight
5 if you remove the sway bar, put the bolts back in.

A LOT of the problems are caused by removing the frt bumper angled brackets, sway bar bolts & not checking the steer box bolts.

 

[85CUCVtom]

A LOT of the problems are caused by removing the frt bumper angled brackets, sway bar bolts & not checking the steer box bolts.

Could you elaborate a little more in this? Does the front bumper and mounts act as a sort or crossmember stiffing the front of the frame? Not questioning what your saying; just curious. I've just never heard that before.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Skinny]

I would also check the rivets on the frame. The 2wd Suburban I converted to a CUCV clone had some loose ones up front that were tough to see. The rivet worked loose slightly and elongated the hole in the crossmember. These big floppy C channel frames like to work themselves loose over time.

 

[86m1028]

Could you elaborate a little more in this? Does the front bumper and mounts act as a sort or crossmember stiffing the front of the frame? Not questioning what your saying; just curious. I've just never heard that before. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes the bumper, mounts & braces stiffen up the frame.
The sway bar bolts go thru a crossmember, frame brackets & also help greatly stiffen up the frt frame corners.

If you doubt me pull the bumper, brackets & sway bar mounts off.
Have someone start the truck & work the steering back & forth.
Sit at the frt of the truck & watch the driver side frame rail twist back & forth.

 

[Bighorn]

I had a 1984 K5 that had frame cracks under the steering box.
Symptoms that the truck had;
Wandering on the highway,
Understeer.
A feeling in the seat that the front end was not attached properly when offroad on twisty sections.

Put the Rough Country weld in kit in that frame and it cured the symptoms.
I took the additional steps of drilling out a 1/16 hole at the end of each frame crack, then welding the cracks, then installing the weld in kit over the top and just stitch welding 1" on the long axis of the frame only.
A 1" weld then a 1" gap without weld and so on.
DID NOT weld the up and down width of the c channel.
Just do the top and bottom.

I have a 1976 K5 with the same cracks under the steering box and also a crack in the left rear of the frame running from the shock bolt half way up the c-channel.
I will not repair this truck's frame.
It is a lost cause.
I will part it out using some for my M1009.

My 1986 M1009 has no cracks anywhere I can find.
I will be installing the Rough Country weld in kit under the steering box like I did on my 1984 to pre-empt any cracks.

If you lay under the front of a Blazer or Suburban to which big tires (33" and up) have been installed while someone turns the steering wheel.
Just watch.. you will be shocked.
Don't listen to me though.
Go park on pavement and run the experiment.
You'll be adding reinforcement to your frame in that area once you do.

By the way, ditto to what the person above said about removing the front bumper and brackets.
Had a friend with a 1972 K5 that had the bumper off his truck for a long time.
All kinds of slop in the frame developed slowly over time.
The bumper and bumper brackets absolutely help hold the frame together.

 

[85CUCVtom]

Yes the bumper, mounts & braces stiffen up the frame.
The sway bar bolts go thru a crossmember, frame brackets & also help greatly stiffen up the frt frame corners.

If you doubt me pull the bumper, brackets & sway bar mounts off.
Have someone start the truck & work the steering back & forth.
Sit at the frt of the truck & watch the driver side frame rail twist back & forth.

It definitely makes sense. Don't doubt you at all! It's just something you don't really think about.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[rustystud]

I had a 1984 K5 that had frame cracks under the steering box.
Symptoms that the truck had;
Wandering on the highway,
Understeer.
A feeling in the seat that the front end was not attached properly when offroad on twisty sections.

Put the Rough Country weld in kit in that frame and it cured the symptoms.
I took the additional steps of drilling out a 1/16 hole at the end of each frame crack, then welding the cracks, then installing the weld in kit over the top and just stitch welding 1" on the long axis of the frame only.
A 1" weld then a 1" gap without weld and so on.
DID NOT weld the up and down width of the c channel.
Just do the top and bottom.

I have a 1976 K5 with the same cracks under the steering box and also a crack in the left rear of the frame running from the shock bolt half way up the c-channel.
I will not repair this truck's frame.
It is a lost cause.
I will part it out using some for my M1009.

My 1986 M1009 has no cracks anywhere I can find.
I will be installing the Rough Country weld in kit under the steering box like I did on my 1984 to pre-empt any cracks.

If you lay under the front of a Blazer or Suburban to which big tires (33" and up) have been installed while someone turns the steering wheel.
Just watch.. you will be shocked.
Don't listen to me though.
Go park on pavement and run the experiment.
You'll be adding reinforcement to your frame in that area once you do.

By the way, ditto to what the person above said about removing the front bumper and brackets.
Had a friend with a 1972 K5 that had the bumper off his truck for a long time.
All kinds of slop in the frame developed slowly over time.
The bumper and bumper brackets absolutely help hold the frame together.

Like I mentioned earlier, this was a major flaw in the frame design of this truck. Chevy corrected it in the 1986/1987 model change-out.