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M1009 front drive shaft
- Thread starter John85
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Are you looking for the little boot that goes over it? I don't think they make them anymore but I've used one off a shock that I bought online.
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Jeepadict
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Have you visited the SS TM section and downloaded all the manuals for your toy? There's another cornucopia of information to get lost in:
The exploded parts diagrams and applicable part numbers will be found in the files with a "P" at the end. When you find the p/n for what you're looking for, copy and paste into Google...that's a great start for most searches. There's also a section of this forum titled "parts wanted" that can drum up some great sources as well.
Many are unaware that the CUCVs are mostly off the shelf civilian trucks with a camo paint job, a few NATO modifications to make them globally compatible, and some extra lights for night ops. A gross majority of your truck's parts can be had over the counter of most auto parts stores and thru many Squarebody catalog websites/companies...just tell them you have a 1984 Chevrolet K5 with the 6.2L Diesel and auto trans...do not tell them it's a CUCV, that will just confuse them.
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CUCV TMs
M1008, M1009, M1010, M1028, etc... Find TM's related to the CUCV series of trucks in this forum. - No posting of threads
www.steelsoldiers.com
The exploded parts diagrams and applicable part numbers will be found in the files with a "P" at the end. When you find the p/n for what you're looking for, copy and paste into Google...that's a great start for most searches. There's also a section of this forum titled "parts wanted" that can drum up some great sources as well.
Many are unaware that the CUCVs are mostly off the shelf civilian trucks with a camo paint job, a few NATO modifications to make them globally compatible, and some extra lights for night ops. A gross majority of your truck's parts can be had over the counter of most auto parts stores and thru many Squarebody catalog websites/companies...just tell them you have a 1984 Chevrolet K5 with the 6.2L Diesel and auto trans...do not tell them it's a CUCV, that will just confuse them.
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No the actual seal on the drive shaft
biscuitwhistler37
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www.steelsoldiers.com
Pretty sure what you're after is in here, figure 70, page 159.
Yes 7 and 8
biscuitwhistler37
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No problem. TMs are our best friends, there's not a single part of that truck or any MV for that matter undocumented (to my knowledge anyway). Nsns can be tricky, but the right parts guy shouldn't have an issue. Hope the search goes well for you.
Jeepadict
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If you're hard set for a hard copy, you can take the various PDFs from the link I shared on a USB drive or CD to your local print service and they can not only print it but can 3-hole punch or bind it for you.
Thank you I going to look into that .
cucvrus
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Crazy as it may sound I have used new driveshafts and they are complete with all new parts. They are balanced. Looking at the driveshaft you are showing I can see worn splines on the main shaft and am sure 40 years has not been kind to the CV joint. Just a suggestion to replace it with new. Google K 5 front drive shaft and several options with come up . Things wear out and need replaced. Good Luck. Take Care.
What would you recommend?
A-Premium Front Complete Drive Shaft Prop Shaft Driveshaft Assembly Compatible with Chevrolet K30 & GMC K3500 1980-1986, 4.8L 5.7L 6.2L 6.6L 7.4L, Automatic Transmission https://a.co/d/6vq2t5R
I bought this one
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I bought this one
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I found some on fb marketplace used but by the time I put new u joints in I'd be way over that price. I had a bent one on mine so it needed a new one.
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WOW... you must have some good eyes...!?
All I can see in that one picture is the "smooth" shaft sticking out of the dust cap, with about 1 inch of travel left before totally collapsed.
cucvrus
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I have seen enough worn-out front drive shafts I can tell when they need replaced. The splines in the male and female part have wobble. I can guarantee that. I worked on CUCV's for a minute or two. That type one drive shaft was always an issue with spline wear. The welds look like it may have been overhauled at on time. I am trying to kelp get it fixed right the first time. Spending the $150. now for a complete new balanced shaft is less expensive than replacing the questionable u joints, CV joint and seal. Even my time is more valuable than that on my own stuff. Be Safe.WOW... you must have some good eyes...!?
All I can see in that one picture is the "smooth" shaft sticking out of the dust cap, with about 1 inch of travel left before totally collapsed.
I'm sure I will need to call on you gentleman again. When I got this 84 it was pretty much a basket case I've come a long way with it. Although I was lucky enough to get pretty much every spare part from the gentleman that sold it to me but everything seems to be very strong as in joints and engine and front end and all.