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M1009 front springs....too saggy?

Ilikemtb999

Active member
701
45
28
Location
Denver, CO
Hey All,
Ive been slowly chasing a fix for my m1009's jarring feeling over bumps and had a quick question about my front springs and if they're too arched or not. I've searched but haven't come to any definitive answers as too how much (or how little arc) they should have. I know they're reverse arc springs but I have about 2-2 1/2" of space between the pad and bump stop. Included are some pictures showing how close it is to the bump stops and arc.


spring.jpgspring2.jpg
 
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Sharecropper

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,836
989
113
Location
Paris KY
Yea they look pretty tired. Just think about it; those springs have been supporting 50% of your truck's weight for 28 years!

You may want to consider a spring-based 2" lift kit. By only lifting the truck 2", you probably would not have to change drive shafts, shocks, brake lines, or steering components (y'all correct me if I'm wrong). Your ride would be improved and so would your off-road articulation.

Hope this helps.
 

Westech

CPL
6,104
208
63
Location
cow farts, Wisconsin
They look like every other blazer front spring I have seen. You replace the steering stabilizer? Inspected all the tie rods and ball joints? Inspected/ tested shocks? Serviced the wheel bearings? Lots of things will make it act funny on the road besides lazy springs.
 

FatBuddhaBoo

Member
330
8
18
Location
Jacksonville, Fl
Yeah mine are about the same, causing the truck to not even sit level. It's on the list, and I'll either do a two inch lift like Sharecropper mentioned or buy factory replacements from LMC.
 

Ilikemtb999

Active member
701
45
28
Location
Denver, CO
They look like every other blazer front spring I have seen. You replace the steering stabilizer? Inspected all the tie rods and ball joints? Inspected/ tested shocks? Serviced the wheel bearings? Lots of things will make it act funny on the road besides lazy springs.
The truck drive perfectly fine on anything smooth, even at highway speeds. No wandering, shaking or pulling. When I hit any sort of bumps it feels like death.
 

Ilikemtb999

Active member
701
45
28
Location
Denver, CO
Ball joints and tie rods are all tight and boots still look new (can't be too old). No wheel bearing play. I've replaced all the bushings front and rear with energy suspension ones since they were all dry rotted.
 

K9Vic

Active member
1,261
7
38
Location
Fort Worth, TX
A 2" lift does not require changing the steering arm to be replaced unlike a 4" lift. You can get the lift with all springs for about $600 shipped, or find a local spring and frame shop to re-arch you current springs that would give you about 2" lift.
 

Ilikemtb999

Active member
701
45
28
Location
Denver, CO
I don't want anything more than 2-2.5". Honesty if I could get stock replacements for a decent price I'd get those but when they're nearly the price of decent lift springs its hard to go the stock route.
 

Ilikemtb999

Active member
701
45
28
Location
Denver, CO
I don't know what happened but it looks like a few posts disappeared. :confused:


Anyways, ORD seems to be the place for parts. Do I want the tuff country EZ springs or the HD springs? They make mention of the HD's for heavy front ends but not sure if just the 6.2 will be enough weight to warrant them or not. I certainly don't want a rough ride if I can avoid it. Eventually I want to build it into a small lift/big tire vehicle for when I get out west. I wasn't planning on starting with a small lift first but I guess that's the route I'm taking haha
 

Lebowski

Member
54
3
8
Location
Manitoba Canada
I think with the weight of the 6.2 they would suggest the HD springs. I would call and talk to them.

Maybe the post disappeared because I direct linked? Not sure. Oh well, just visit offroaddesign. com's "Our Own 4x4" section.
 
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Ilikemtb999

Active member
701
45
28
Location
Denver, CO
Looks like the forum has been reverted back a few hours. No biggie. I got your links via email. Eventually I want my blazer to be similar to that suburban low buck build. Just don't quite have that kind of cash to dump on it right now. I'd probably just do the front springs and blocks in the rear till I have the money for a shackle flip. Then axles and tires.


Getting back to my current springs, is there anybody with a stock suspension m1009 that could measure the distance between the anchor plate on top of the springs and the mount for the bump stop?
 

Lebowski

Member
54
3
8
Location
Manitoba Canada
This might help, from an ORD post:

for ride height, the measurement we work from the most is measuring from top of axle tube to the bumpstop mount on the frame. we figure a stock truck is typically 8.5 to 9" so a 3" lift should end up around 12".
 

prairie

New member
84
0
0
Location
Bloomfield, Nebraska
Yeah mine are about the same, causing the truck to not even sit level. It's on the list, and I'll either do a two inch lift like Sharecropper mentioned or buy factory replacements from LMC.
If M1009's were like Blazers, they never set level when new. I can see leveling a M1009/Blazer, if you like that look, as they have always been used mainly as passenger vehicles anyway.
I have never understood the need or desire to level pickups. Pickups are built with the rear higher than the front, so that they sit right when hauling loads. I grew up around and still use 20 (3/4 ton) to 30 (1 ton) series light duty pickups, and medium duty trucks (4500-6500 series), for farm and commercial use. Today most pickups are used like cars, so I guess it probably doesn't hurt leveling them, but they sure look silly.
 
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