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M1009 Fuel Filter Mod Issues

Jkiszka

New member
11
-1
1
Location
Colonia, NJ
HISTORY:
When I first got my M1009 it didn't start up because of a broken resistor and bad glow plugs so I replaced all of the glow plugs and removed the resistor and set it to where it can only send 12v. The truck started after all this and drove for about a few hours before shutting off. Now I had a new issue to find. With the original fuel filter set-up in my M1009 the engine would start up after A LOT of priming and cranking, but would then die after a few minutes and noticed there was air in it when I tried to prime it again. So, I did some research and found out the original housing is prone to air leaks. I bypassed the original filter and placed an inline filter to make sure the air was getting into the housing. With the inline filter, the truck would start up with no issues and ran. After about 1 week and a 1/2 I decided to place on a new filter set-up.

CURRENT ISSUES:
I had replaced the filter housing and filter (due to an air leak) to a spin-on filter set up with a 3-micron filter w/ water separator by WIX. After I primed the filter the first time, the engine fired right up. It ran for about 8-10 minutes strong and then the engine shut off. When I checked the new spin-on filter, the filter was half empty. Also, when I opened the valve to bleed it pressurized air came out. Being that the air was pressurized, I know there is no air leaks. Now I have to crack the injector lines to let the air out, then prime it to start it. When I start it, it only runs for a few minutes. Does anyone know what's going on here?:shrugs:

Thanks!
View attachment 641615View attachment 641616View attachment 641617
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
sock in tank is probably clogged, have to drop tank to fix it.
put an electric pump on (see forum plenty of info on it) you don't have to use it other than priming and testing your fuel system. Using the starter to prime the system is not good on the starter and running the IP dry is not good on it.

the electric pump will save you a lot of potential headaches.

drop the tank and clean it.
 

eme411

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
275
3
18
Location
pefferlaw ontario
I also had filter issues with my 1009, did some research on the different spin-on's out there, best and most trouble free was the Stanadyne FM-100, all kinds of options for this set up including water sensors, heater, and hand primer, but the best part is it has a top cap , replacing the element is a breeze, take the cap off pour fuel in the top, open up the bleeder to get rid of the air pocket , pour a little more fuel in and open the bleeder again, replace the cap and start the truck , all done.
 

Jkiszka

New member
11
-1
1
Location
Colonia, NJ
Would a 30 Micron perform better than a 3 Micron? If I switched to the FM 100 would I need to change my housing? Thanks!
 
139
0
16
Location
Morehead, KY
Don't try to overcomplicate things. Start with the basics. Change the fuel filter, check for leaks, then drop tank and check the pickup. These trucks are 30 years old, chances are that the screen on the fuel sending unit it all goobered up with goo stuff. Your fuel might even look a different color in the tank. While your in the tank, just change the whole sending unit. For the amount of work it will take to drop the tank, it will pay off later by not having to worry about and old/used sending unit going bad. Call up some good friends, roll up your sleeves, and get that tank down. Good luck, let us know what you find.
 

Jkiszka

New member
11
-1
1
Location
Colonia, NJ
I wonder if this is this is the root of the evil...
IMG_2219.jpg

Look at all this nasty fuel I found. Need a new strap while I'm at it.
IMG_2221.jpg IMG_2209.jpg

BEFORE: AFTER:
IMG_2214.jpg IMG_2224.jpg IMG_2225.jpg

Thank you everyone for your help! Hopefully this works out!
 
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