m1009 gauge installation

[Jmeggz89]

Hi I have an 86 m1009 and am trying to install a water temp and oil pressure gauge on it. I have read a few post on the subject but am dyslexic so pictures will help me out a lot lol. I have an electric oil pressure gauge already and was wondering if I can just wire that and the water temp Gauges right into the original sending units? Like just cut the wires coming off them now and wire it to them. I am not sure because I knw they are just dummy gauges and was not sure if that would work. Also will eventually want to put in mech gauges so if anyone has pics of the actual ports and the sending units as well it would help out a lot. thanks.

 

[Skinny]

Searching is your friend. The dummy lights have dummy sending units which are not compatible with gauges. You will need to source the correct sending unit for your gauge.

If you are going to run mechanical gauges, just start off with that because they are cheaper and come with the sending unit. All you have to wire in is back lighting for the gauge if you wish.

Be careful as the glow plug temperature sending unit is different from the engine temperature sending unit. Do not eliminate the wrong one or the GP's will not function correctly.

 

[Warthog]

As Skinny said, the dummy light sending units are just an ON/OFF switch. Won't work with the gauges.

Where are you mounting your new gauges?

Since you like pictures have you downloaded the FREE technical manuals? They provide just about every picture you will ever need. The Parts manuals show how everything should be assembled.

 

[cscmc1]

Loads of info in the forums here -- do a search on gauge installation, sending units, plumbing, etc...

Also note that if you use the panel that houses the volt meter, you will probably need to isolate the gauge from the metal panel itself with some kind of insulation, or you'll have a constant voltage reading at the gauge. The voltage is always "hot" at that gauge, and the ground is what is switched with the ignition. If you mount a gauge there and in completes a ground to that metal panel, the voltage gauge will activate. Took me a while to figure that one out, but I finally wrapped my mind around it when I did my water temp gauge install.

 

[Skinny]

Loads of info in the forums here -- do a search on gauge installation, sending units, plumbing, etc...

Also note that if you use the panel that houses the volt meter, you will probably need to isolate the gauge from the metal panel itself with some kind of insulation, or you'll have a constant voltage reading at the gauge. The voltage is always "hot" at that gauge, and the ground is what is switched with the ignition. If you mount a gauge there and in completes a ground to that metal panel, the voltage gauge will activate. Took me a while to figure that one out, but I finally wrapped my mind around it when I did my water temp gauge install.

This sounds like it was painful to figure out. Glad I just read it

 

[cscmc1]

It just had me confounded. It was really obvious once I made sense of it, but I was making it far more complicated than it needed to be; I've owned too many British cars, and was thinking I'd let the Lucas electrical genie out of the bottle, so to speak, and really screwed something up.

**I should add that this really only applies if your voltmeter is working in the first place**

 

[Jmeggz89]

thanks all.

 

[Skinny]

I've owned too many British cars

AAAAAAHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!

I work on Land Rover/Range Rover in the summer time. My day consists of rot repair and electrical diag...that's it

 

[cscmc1]

AAAAAAHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!

I work on Land Rover/Range Rover in the summer time. My day consists of rot repair and electrical diag...that's it

It's been all Triumph and MG for me. My buddy has a Rover Classic though, and I'd help wrench on occasion. After the second cracked manifold, he finally unloaded it, though. Neat trucks, but wow -- they sure like attention!

 

[Skinny]

The Defenders and Series rigs are truly one of the best designs ever that can be dismantled, shipped to a 3rd world country, and rebuilt numerous times over decades. They just keep going and going. Would it hurt Lucas or Bosch to put a decent zinc or gold plated connector on something That is where I start to prefer Toyotas and Nissans (exports, not the junk they send to the US). The electronics are far superior but they still can't be rebuilt like a Brit Rovah.

 

[cscmc1]

The Defenders and Series rigs are truly one of the best designs ever that can be dismantled, shipped to a 3rd world country, and rebuilt numerous times over decades. They just keep going and going. Would it hurt Lucas or Bosch to put a decent zinc or gold plated connector on something That is where I start to prefer Toyotas and Nissans (exports, not the junk they send to the US). The electronics are far superior but they still can't be rebuilt like a Brit Rovah.

Very true. They are awesome trucks, and the fact that they can be maintained and serviced with a handful of tools is downright amazing. If I could afford one, a diesel Defender would be in my stable. That ain't happening, though, so the CUCV suits me just fine for now. It's a capable and fund truck in it's own right.

But yeah... why the Brits never got up to speed on electrical systems is a mystery. Strange.

 

[Skinny]

The price of one diesel D90 could buy me a fleet of awesome MV's. My friend is just finishing up a D90 that has been built 4 times by the owner. The latest version which is shipping this month has a galvy chassis + bulkhead, linex'd everything, 300Tdi, dual overdrives, etc. Pretty much spared no expense. We are talking a $250k rig. I just finished and calibrated $12k of aviation instruments. I know that it gets 0.7 mpg in reverse

Even a nice one goes for $50k which is just stupid money. I'd rather have a HMMWV, M1009, M1008, and a Deuce for that kind of coin.

 

[cscmc1]

There was a 5-speed diesel Defender on Minneapolis CL this past spring for $10K. I can't tell you how tempting that was! But yeah, I agree, for the money I'll stick with my US MV. That said, though, I have seen some *really* cool MoD Rovers in my travels with the military! I'm sure you've seen 'em too. Cool trucks, just so darned $pendy.

 

[Skinny]

$10k, probably needed a bulkhead and frame easily which would set you back $20k by the time you had it the way you wanted it.

I was down in RI helping a friend do some wiring on his sailboat. I was sitting in town eating lunch. This woman drove by (probably going to get groceries) in a very new D110 TD5. I was thinking either

A) her husband works for the CIA
B) she has no idea she is driving a gray market illegal vehicle
C) is picking up $100 worth of food in a $100,000 truck

 

[cscmc1]

Yep -- the $10k wasn't the real problem. It was the subsequent "care and feeding" budget that scared me out of it. Oh well. I've got my CUCV, and I love it!

 

[Skinny]

Rock on

MV all the way!

Speaking of gauges...I just picked up an M998 tach off ebay that I will be installing. Even after searching, the hookup sounds pretty vague. I hope feeding it the signal off the alternator works fine. Has anyone used other MV gauges? I would like to add oil pressure and water temp but want to avoid some yo yo gauges from Jegs. HMMWV gauges are still fetching $60 each plus a $50 sender. Any other sources for cool looking military style gauges?

 

[cscmc1]

Speaking of gauges...I just picked up an M998 tach off ebay that I will be installing. Even after searching, the hookup sounds pretty vague. I hope feeding it the signal off the alternator works fine. Has anyone used other MV gauges? I would like to add oil pressure and water temp but want to avoid some yo yo gauges from Jegs. HMMWV gauges are still fetching $60 each plus a $50 sender. Any other sources for cool looking military style gauges?

I'm curious about this as well -- anyone?

Meantime, I'm afraid I'd stuck with the yo-yo gauges. They seem to be working OK, but it would be nice to have something more appropriate (read: MILSPEC).

 

[Skinny]

If I can't get milspec, I am going with experimental aviation from aircraft spruce. They seem to be priced right and look like they belong in a CUCV.

Last thing I am going to do is install some Autozone ricer junk in my CUCV.

 

[Sharecropper]

Skinny;

Sorta like this one?

ISS 2-1/4 ENGINE TACHOMETER GAUGE from Aircraft Spruce

 

[Skinny]

Bingo

That tach would be a great fit. If I can't get my HMMWV tach working, that is the one I will buy next. Small diameter and redline is 3500rpm...perfect. I hate large tachs, especially ones that go to 8000rpms when the engine doesn't.

The ISS brand name looks like a decent gauge. Only problem is they do not have engine coolant temp. Maybe oil temp would be substitited with a correct placard???