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M1009 hacked electrical

Ckrebello

New member
14
5
3
Location
Vermont
In stock configuration:

The truck is mostly 12v. There is a 24v starter, and 24v is fed to the GP resistor (back of the engine bay, but yours is missing), and there is 24v going to the starter relay under the dash, a 24v feed to the Gen2 idiot light and the voltmeter, and one to the fuse block.

Everything else is 12v.

Thank you. Do you think I can get back to 24v with my configuration?

In your case, you have such a hacked mess that it's really going to be hard help you figure it out. :( But we'll try!

Thank you

That wiring harness is almost certainly 12v, BTW. One of those GP controller cards was designed and manufactured by one of our members here. CUCV Electric was his company name, but now he sells them through Hillbilly Wizard. Unless it's been fried by your P.O. doing stupid things, it's gold.

The PO said it wasn’t installed. This is probably dumb, but where does it go?





Let's start there. Trace the wires from your glow plugs and see where they go. Post pics. You are trying to find out how the P.O. has got them hacked up.
I’ll work on tracing and taking pics today.
 

joshuak

Active member
747
214
43
Location
Slower shore, DE
Gee whiz, I'm only here because I'm genuinely interested in what the OP has going on, ready to learn and help if I can.

QUOTE="cucvrus, post: 2366458, member: 45978"]
After reviewing all the information, pictures and holding off an assault of my offer and experience...
[/QUOTE]

Show me one instance where either of those two things happened and I will give you a public apology. If not, you're lying.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
You have nothing to gain by reconverting it to 24 volt. IMHO. I would sail with what you have and do whatever splices. repairs and heat shrinks are needed to get everything operational. Do you have the 2 B/O lamp switches? If you do you are still good to go on the B/O lights. Most times the B/O wires are under the bumpers or front core support somewhere 2 wires at each side up front 1 ground and 1 power and 3 in the rear one for power B/O marker , one for power B/O brake and one for ground on each side. All under hood and dash plugs and other wiring needs are about the same on every GM vehicle from that era. Good Luck. Rewiring the entire vehicle into stock form is easy. But you no longer have a stock form vehicle.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
816
113
Location
Virginia
I agree with Rick. Since it's running, you are functional. You do need to fix the GP system, but after that, well, it ain't broke, so....

You may want to clean up that rat's nest, but you can do that without changing any actual circuits. You really don't even need to understand what is what. Just do one wire at a time and re-route it like someone who actually has a brain, instead of what was done by the P.O.

If you ever decide to do a frame-off restoration, that would be a good time to restore the electrical.
 

Ckrebello

New member
14
5
3
Location
Vermont
You have nothing to gain by reconverting it to 24 volt. IMHO. I would sail with what you have and do whatever splices. repairs and heat shrinks are needed to get everything operational. Do you have the 2 B/O lamp switches? If you do you are still good to go on the B/O lights. Most times the B/O wires are under the bumpers or front core support somewhere 2 wires at each side up front 1 ground and 1 power and 3 in the rear one for power B/O marker , one for power B/O brake and one for ground on each side. All under hood and dash plugs and other wiring needs are about the same on every GM vehicle from that era. Good Luck. Rewiring the entire vehicle into stock form is easy. But you no longer have a stock form vehicle.
Do you recommend any improvements or upgrades while I’m cleaning up the mess of an electrical system?
I was wanting to reinstall the NATO slave. I thought heard it could be used for powering things with an inverter. That could be handy in the woods and other dumb places I find myself.
Thank you again. I hope I’m not being a bother, I really am learning.
 

Ckrebello

New member
14
5
3
Location
Vermont
I agree with Rick. Since it's running, you are functional. You do need to fix the GP system, but after that, well, it ain't broke, so....

You may want to clean up that rat's nest, but you can do that without changing any actual circuits. You really don't even need to understand what is what. Just do one wire at a time and re-route it like someone who actually has a brain, instead of what was done by the P.O.

If you ever decide to do a frame-off restoration, that would be a good time to restore the electrical.
Same question. Do you have any recommendations for upgrades or improvements while I’m cleaning up the PO’s disaster of a rat’s nest. Besides slapping him silly. I can be OCD. Thank you for your help.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
816
113
Location
Virginia
If you want to use an inverter, there are better connectors than the NATO slave receptacle. It has the advantage of having a convenient spot to mount it, and it looks orginal.

OTOH, it's not compatible with anything else, like the common Anderson connectors.
 
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