M1009 heater blower switch

[CycleJay]

Stationjj,

Yes, I do have Oreilly part numbers for the heater parts:

Blower motor:
VDO - Blower Motor
Part # PM106

Line: VDO

Blower motor resistor:
BWD - Blower Motor Resistor Part # RU1320

Line: BWD

Blower motor resistor connector:
BWD - Electrical Connector Part # PT5765

Line: BWD

Blower motor fan wheel:
Murray AC - Blower Motor Wheel
Part # 35602

Line: MRY

Those are what I have so far.

Hope this helps you.. and others...

Let me know if you need part numbers for other heater parts.

Good luck, and let me know how it goes.

Night...

 

[twlinks]

Blower motor NAPA part #655-1076 w/o wheel...$18.29.

 

[CycleJay]

Hi guys,

Since we are on the heater subject.
Have any of you ever replaced the heater core in your M1009?

Also, if I needed to replace my heater blower motor capacitor,
could I get that at the local auto part store too?
I cannot locate it on the oreilly's or napa site...



When I start working on the heater. It would only make sense to replace,
the important parts, since it will all be open and taken apart anyway.
So none of them fail in the future.
So I would like to replace the:
Heater core
Blower motor
Blower fan
Blower fan switch
Blower capacitor
Blower resistor
Blower resistor connector
And the corresponding gaskets of course..

Just my

 

[cpf240]

Many on here have replaced the heater cores in their CUCVs, I've read a few posts about it. I have not replaced mine yet. It does not leak, but I think it needs a good flushing.

The capacitor is only there for noise suppression for the radios. It is not needed for the operation of the blower motor. I doubt they were used on the civi trucks. Having said that though, they used to be common on many car alternators for the same reason, eliminating the "hum" from the alternator coming through the radio. I would suspect any auto parts store would have something that would work, but the connectors will probably need to be changed.

 

[stationjj]

CJ,

I am currently in the process of replacing my heater core. From what I found on SS stay away from the Aluminum heater core replacements. Most are China Junk.

From my understanding is that the Aluminum cores don't put out the the same heat as the original ones made from copper and brass. Several SS members have said they plan to take the China crap out.

Mine started leaking a few weeks ago. I went to a local pull a part with another Local SS member. I found a 85 C-10 pickup no A/C. Part Pulled $15.

I carried to a local radiator shop for check out. They were able to clean, Flush, and repair a leak for $32.

I pulled heater core from the CUCV. Took it to the radiator shop to have as a spare. It was beyond repair. I was told it was very clogged and sprang many leaks you can't fix.
They can replace copper tubing coils, but the cost is $200.

I would suspect your heater core is clogged up and dirty. With the age of our CUCVs I doubt the heater as ever been taken out.

Since you have it apart? Having the heater core flushed and cleaned won't hurt. Preventive maintenance right?

stationjj

 

[CycleJay]

Cpf,

Thanks for the information.
I do not have my heater core out yet, but I plan on trying soon, when I get another one.
As for the capacitor, I would like to still use one, so I do not get any interference coming
out of my CB radio.

I read the TM's about removing and installing the heater core, it looks a bit complicated.

I will get a heater core, but NOT a chinese made aluminum one.
Napa has what seems to be a copper based one for about $27.00.
I will check that out, after my next paycheck.

Anyway, thanks guys for all the tips, advice, etc. I will be sure to follow as much of it,
as I can to get this job done well. So I can have heat in my truck again.

But like I keep saying, IF I am going to take the heater apart at all, I may as well as
replace all those parts for preventative measures sake, so they do not fail in the future
anytime soon.

And the left over parts I will clean, flush, etc., so I have spares aka backups.
At least those parts that can be saved.


Just my

Night...

 

[StoneyHill]

My blower quit and I traced the problem to the switch. It is GM part number 16032480. The burnt switch also melted a small hole in the wiring harness plug that holds the hot jumper and the three wires to the resistors.

Has anyone had to replace this plug? Any ideas?

Thanks,
Scott Burns

 

[Tinstar]

I think acdelco still makes that plug.
Not sure of the part number.
There’s a ACDelco catalog of nothing but connectors and I thought I saw it in there.
Can’t find it now.

You can always head to the local scrap yard and pull one off a truck there.
Their not all melted hopefully.

 

[cucvrus]

My blower quit and I traced the problem to the switch. It is GM part number 16032480. The burnt switch also melted a small hole in the wiring harness plug that holds the hot jumper and the three wires to the resistors.

Has anyone had to replace this plug? Any ideas?

Thanks,
Scott BurnsView attachment 708264

Sir that is a common problem. It comes from the connection being a bit loose. It is fairly easy to replace the entire blower harness. I know the one GM serviced was a PITA. it was a plug with all white wires that needed butt/soldered together to the old harness. I recall a lot of GM vehicles Pontiacs/Oldsmobile/Buick in the mid 80 - mid 90's have the same plug and are a dime a dozen in the scrap yards. Even the switch is the same on some. And the knobs are nicer on some of the switches. Good Luck. Report back. I have access to a few donor vehicles.

 

[doghead]

LMC has it.

36-0587	CONNECTOR-FAN SWITCH	$21.95	$21.95
	In Stock

And they have the switch for about $12

 

[StoneyHill]

Thanks for all the help guys. It turns out that my local NAPA had the blower switch and plug. The switch is part number HC101. The plug was EC87.

So now I have to decide if I push the metal contacts out of the new plug or cut and splice the wires......

The switch was only 12.69. I paid 25.49 for the stupid plug!!!!

Thanks again for the help.
Scott Burns

 

[cucvrus]

Splice the new wires. The old contacts were part of the problem. A big part. Just use solderless heat shrink butt connectors. All will be well. Use a bit of Dielectric grease on the plug and resistor /switch side under hood. Now go under the hood and do a good cleaning of the resistor connection. That also helps build up heat at the switch. The corrosion makes a lot of resistance and the switch connection is the weak link in the chain. Good Luck. Report back. Gently pry the plug from the resistor and clean it really well on both sides.

 

[StoneyHill]

cucvrus,

I will take your advise and splice the wires.

Which resistor under the hood are you referring to.

Thanks,
Scott

 

[cucvrus]

The one over behind the rear battery on the heater box. That needs a good cleaning and some dielectric grease. That can get pretty rough out there under he hood. Gently pry the connection plug apart and remove the resistor. Clean it all up and reinstall. Good Luck. Report back.

 

[Sganderson]

This is an old thread, but I didn’t want to start a new one on the same subject.
Mine suddenly quit working the other day,
So far I’ve ruled out the blower motor and switch.
it seems I am not getting voltage to my heater fuse block with the key on. After looking through the diagrams it seems my next step should be possibly replacing the ignition switch? Everything else works beside the heater. Can anyone chime in on where I should direct my attention?

 

[cucvrus]

Check the resistor under the hood on the metal heater box housing. See if you have electric to that wire. Also, under the dash 1 wire I believe orange runs off the switch harness and supplies current to the switch. Make sure that is hot. How did you rule out the switch on the fan motor. It can appear good and be wasted and melted inside the connection. Double check that area. As a simple test run a hot wire to the blower motor and see if it runs. It could have a zoo of wildlife nests inside the housing. I massacred an entire mouse family in a 1983 Chevrolet tow truck I left parked. The fan worked fine and made sounds that were horrible. In Spring I found the issue and smelled the results. An entire family of mice wiped out during the winter and left to remind me when the weather got warm. Good Luck.

 

[Sganderson]

Thanks for the reply. I don’t even want to imagine what that smelled like…
I checked for voltage coming to the variable speed resistor and did not find any. Then I ran 12v from my battery to the blower itself and it worked. So I went ahead and bought a switch from Napa bc I thought I ruled everything else out and still didn’t work. That’s when I decided to check for voltage at the fuse block to find out I’m not getting power there with the key in the on position.
According to the diagrams I found, I should be getting power from the ignition switch correct? And yes you are correct it is an orange wire that supplies voltage to the switch.

 

[Sganderson]

Just figured it out. I traced the orange wire running from the ignition switch to the heater fuse.
someone before me put an inline 20amp fuse there that was corroded and didn’t have continuity. Why it was there, I have no earthly clue. I clipped it out and reconnected the wire with a crimp and heat shrink.

 

[cucvrus]

It's a hacker thing to do. Someone said they did it and it was a cure all and then more people did it and they thought they reinvented the wheel, and the hacking continues to this day. Each and every day there is a CUCV somewhere being hacked and modified. Many will never be the same again. Not my CUCV. I just unloaded and split a load of Pin Oak out of the 1987 CUCV M1028. No one ever comes around when the log splitter starts up. Have a Great Day. Stay warm.