m1009 heavy smoking

[BobMassive]

Hello,

My 1009 has been starting rough for a while now. It starts but never on the first, second, or third time cranking. Also it's begun to smoke heavily both while cranking and after start. This kind of came on gradually. Bought it in November and it was'nt doing that. It tends to get worse after the cold idle kicks down. It will literally fog out my entire property. It's white and does not smell like antifreeze. Only after i drive it a few miles does it begin to subside. It idles rough as well and every once in a while it jumps a bit as if a cylinder is misfiring. This also goes away after driving. I could'nt get the injectors off by any conventional means but thats my next step. they're in there pretty good. I also plan on testing compression. Anyone have the proper compression ratio? Would an air leak cause smoking? I'm running out of (cheap) fixes here. PLEASE HELP

Here is what i've done so far
New racor spin on filter
Electric carter fuel pump / lift pump bypass
AC60 gp's
manual gp bypass
Resistor pack bypass
all new rubber fuel lines on delivery side

THANKS

 

[BobMassive]

in addition to this there is a serious lag in power when i first accelerate out of my drive way. after a second or two its normal.

 

[firefirefire90]

have you checked what your oil looks like?

 

[BobMassive]

Yes. Its black as coal after being changed maybe 1000 miles ago. smells faintly of diesel but hard to tell.

 

[Blood_of_Tyrants]

Your problem is likely the fuel return check valve located on top of the electric fuel cutoff. It is literally a 5 minute fix. Take it off and spray some carb cleaner down in it and shake it around and reinstall it.

 

[BobMassive]

Thanks i'll check the tm. Not familiar with this.

 

[BobMassive]

Any info or any link on how to clean the check valve? Cant find anything. Do i just pull the top off the IP?

 

[BobMassive]

OK I cleaned the return valve. Wasnt even dirty really. Im still getting the same result. A virtual london fog. Any other ideas? Should i look into the IP?
Thanks

 

[BobMassive]

In addition to the oil being black its also low about 3/8 quart for no apparent reason. Maybe I'm burning oil? Hard to tell by the smell as I'm not a diesel man. Theres a little bit of what appears to be oil by the starter housing and the dust cover next to it.
Thanks

 

[BobMassive]

I did a compression check and all cylinders were between 425 and 475. However i did find an old broken element from a former gp in one of the combustion chambers. No idea how long thats been in there but removing it did'nt seem to eliminate the smoking. I'm going to go through the entire auto zone shelf of fuel and oil additives but I'm basically back at square one. Any further suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

In addition to all of this the smoke is coming %90 from the driver side tail pipe. Hope this helps.

Thanks.

 

[jdemaris]

However i did find an old broken element from a former gp in one of the combustion chambers.

In addition to all of this the smoke is coming %90 from the driver side tail pipe. Hope this helps.

Smoke from a diesel is from unburned oil - either engine oil or diesel oil.

Bad injectors, incorrect injection/ignition timing, excess fuel delivery, low compression, lack of air, can all cause the problem.

In your case, if most of the problem is from only one side of the engine - that narrows things down a bit. On a farm tractor, the easy way to detect is to pull off the exhaust manifold and see which exhaust port is smoking. Not so easy on a 6.2 V8.

Problems that don't affect all cylinders equally - are usually caused by an injector problem, a stuck heat-riser valve on C-code engines, or engine damage. I'm curious about the piece of glow plug you found. How did you get inside the combustion chamber to find it?

Note that things like bad timing, too much fuel delivery, and injection pump problems usually effect the entire engine equally.

If it always smokes bad, I guess you could loosen each injector line, one at a time - on the smoking side of the engine. If the smoke stops with one of the lines loosened- then at least you know which cylinder is the problem. Then you can pull that injector and test it. If OK, you can assume you've got damage inside the engine.

 

[Capt.Marion]

Diesel Smoke Signals:

Color of Smoke|What's Burning
Black Smoke |Fuel
Blue Smoke |Oil
White Smoke |Water

 

[sandcobra164]

Diesel that's not burning completely is white to gray as well. Ever start a HMMWV with a bad glow plug controller? It'll billow white smoke until it starts and then some after, of course with a Diesel smell accompanying it. My bet is on the injectors in this case. I've got similar issues but they seem to be going away after dosing with a can of Seafoam and a Qt of Dexron III. Mines starting better and not dropping cylinder's any longer and will soon hit 3,000 original miles.

 

[cjtroutt]

Your IP rotor button is gone just worn out and I bet it fell apart.
Its time to get her rebuilt and it will solve your problem.
It will act like it lost timeing and run like it lost multy cylinders.

 

[jdemaris]

Your IP rotor button is gone just worn out and I bet it fell apart.
Its time to get her rebuilt and it will solve your problem.
It will act like it lost timeing and run like it lost multy cylinders.

You have ME stumped. I've been repairing injection pumps for 40 years and I've never heard of a "rotor button."

The "head & rotor" in a Stanadyne Roosamaster can get damaged from thin fuel and/or overheating or cold-shock. If worn it often results in an engine that runs fine, starts fine cold, but will not start hot.

What is this "button?" Head & rotor has two small high pressure pistons, one delivery valve, a leaf spring, a low pressure rotary vane fuel pump, etc.

 

[BobMassive]

JDEMARIS, I removed all the gps before testing compression and when i went to test the cylinder in question (second from the front on the passenger side) I noticed there was something jammed in the threads AFTER i had just removed the existing glow plug. I guess just turning the engine over forced it out. This whole time I thought it was the flex plate rattling but it was an old swollen element. An Uncle Sam shortcut maybe, but it appears to be relatively undamaged. I have suspected the injectors from the beginning but couldnt loose them to save my life so ill just have to get mideval on them. Im just glad it doesnt seem to be a piston.

If the IP was damaged or corroding wouldnt there be evidence of that in the return lines? Because I could just about see my reflection in the return check valve.

Thank you all for the suggestions

 

[cjtroutt]

Rotoery vane Im bad the other parts I seen that caused is this photos.
Do to USDL
I can not explane in very good words and discriptions But I been working on GM and Cummins Cat And Detroit Diesel for 32 years and it all the process of testing theory.

 

[ranchhopper]

Is the truck smoking out of both sides of the exhaust usually bad head gasket or valve will do this out of one side or the other if its doing it out of both sides it may be a tired IP lacking the power to fully crack the injectors open getting bad fuel atomization or serious lack of fuel.

 

[BobMassive]

I thought I remember reading that those rotary vanes were upgraded in the 1986 m1009 injector pumps and weren't prone to breaking as in previous years.

thanks

 

[jdemaris]

I thought I remember reading that those rotary vanes were upgraded in the 1986 m1009 injector pumps and weren't prone to breaking as in previous years.

thanks

The first vanes used in the DB pumps were one piece fiber. Mid-60s it got upgraded to four-piece spring-loaded steel vanes that self-adjust. With the DB2 pumps, there was always those steel vanes as standard, or hardened steel vanes as an "arctic fuel kit." It's that kit that the military installed in some pumps, NOT all - in an attempt to prevent excess wear from JP8 military fuel. They don,t break. They tend to wear on the sides and when they do, the timing advance stops workinp properly.